I have a 1989 Camaro LO3/TH700R4 car I'm freshening up some. Full tune up done, Edelbrock TBI intake, NOS GM Distributor, new NTK O2 sensor, rebuilt throttle body, Jet adjustable FPR, air horns ground off the throttle body and an injector pod spacer. 195 degree thermostat, 215/203 fan switch from a Celebrity (IIRC), factory exhaust with a Flow Master muffler and 89 ethanol-free AMOCO gas.

First steps are the usual. Bump base timing a few degrees and then trying to get my LTFT/BLM in line with the FPR. I just got it started Sunday after a lengthy manifold swap (cracked manifold and other issues) and, no, I don't have a fuel pressure gauge installed ATM. I need to see if my fuel pressure test kit has an adapter for it this evening.

From a short stint of data monitoring yesterday evening, my BLMs were around 105 which is pretty rich (15% ish if the info I found of 0.8% per count is correct). I dropped my FPR about 3 turns and got them in the 110 range cruising, but still 108 at idle. I assume this is fairly normal since it's a static FPR and not vacuum modulated.

Next was timing. I had it set at 0 per factory spec but I've read about guys adding as much as 10 degrees to these LO3s. However, at 3 degrees, I get a smattering of spark knock instantly when I go WOT from a dead stop. That seems to not be there once the car begins to move.

The car has 98k on it and as far as I know, it's the original driveline. Someone has had the intake off before but beyond that, I don't see any signs of the engine being out. I'm going to drop it back to 0 degrees for the time being and put some miles on it with good fuel and a healthy dose of Seafoam and something with PEA to clean the chambers and ports up some. I'm also using the Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30 to help clean up the inside of the engine and hopefully the pistons and rings.

Once I get closer to 128 on the BLM, I'm going to hook up my WB02 and see what PE and Open Loop looks like. I have a 427 ECM I would like to swap to with headers and a modern catalytic converter to do away with the AIR clutter under the hood.

 

This is the only item on your list that I can comment on. And I believe your experience to be pretty typical. The swirl port heads don't like or need much advance to work well. It's part of their design. The next gen Vortec heads are similar...they take a bit more timing, but nothing like an earlier SBC head. When my Camaro RS was new (L03 and a 5-speed with 3.08 gears) I added a degree or two, but beyond that it was not happy. I did leave a degree or so in it, as it seemed ever so slightly more responsive to throttle input, but the difference was not measurable in the 1/4 mile.

 

I echo this. 0 to 2 deg (with the EST disconnected) is all these heads require.

 

Dropped timing back to zero and that cured the rattle.

As for the BLM, I lowered the fuel pressure till it was stumbling off-idle and sluggish and the BLM came up to 111. I've got more reading to do.

I have the '427 ECM from a 95 K2500. I'm still trying to figure out what all I need to do to be able to swap it in and not even bother with the factory one.

 

I ran my old '92 for years and a lot of daily driven miles with the timing advanced 10*. I did run premium fuel though, as it was cheap then and it would tend to ping on regular. The butt dyno said the car performed better. I recorded my mileage on every tank and best mpg was achieved with the advanced timing.

I don't think the mpg increase would be worth it these days though. Big cost difference between regular and premium.

 

I found a second hand Moates setup so now I'm working on putting together a BIN for the '427 ECM.

Dave from GearHead EFI recommended starting with the BHMD BIN and add the AIR controls from the BHMX California truck tune.

I've been digging through the file in TunerPro the last two evenings and I think I have everything set for the TH700R4 and AIR function.

@Fast355 I'm going to post progress here as well. As to our IAT/MAT conversation, I've been searching and reading some this evening and I'm curious why GM did away with them on the TBI engines and if I need to worry about having it set up on my '427 swap. For the moment, it is on in my BIN just because I had set it previously.

 

Is Rbob's EBL Flash no longer a thing? That used to be the way to go. I still have it for my LO3 swapped for a LO5. However, I just tried google him and I can't find his website.

 

@RBob is Rest in Peace chasing those electrons in the sky.

Rbob/Dynamic EFI

@Buccaneer bought Dynamic EFI. Xfire Performance LLC

 

RIP!!! bobR was such a helpful person! I actually bought the system twice, both times he helped me through some tech issues. Amazing to see it will be making a comeback. OP I'd follow that and/or see if you can find a EBL ECM some one is trying to sell.

 

That had originally been the plan. But with it in flux, scoring the 427 ECM and a good deal in a Moates setup, I'm going to start with that.

I'm fighting to keep myself from ordering a bunch more parts till I get the swap done and my front suspension rebuilt.

 

Gotcha gotcha! I 100% understand you there. I'm always finding myself thinking about 'the next part', when I still have so many other jobs in front of me!

 

*foul language*

 

Actually there is nothing wrong with that. That is the same chip adapter setup you would need to tune it anyway. You just saved whatever that adapter cost from Moates. The chip itself is easily removed. The stock Memcal also unplugs and will still have the stock chip in it as well. If you want to read the Hypertech chip and compare it to the stock one you can. The few I found years ago were laughible. Usually they just threw a little more timing and fuel up top. That Hypertech chip is also usually a EEPROM which can be erased and re-written as well giving you an old reliable chip.

 

After spending a couple hours (was helping daughter with a wood working project as well) looking it all over, that was the conclusion I came to eventually. It was just a knee jerk reaction as I'm new to this and thought the OE chip was long gone and not just stashed on the side of the adapter.

I will say, the Moates G1 adapter I have is nice, but the Hypertech adapter is BEEFY compared to it.

I read the program off it but did it incorrectly so I'll retry that tonight. I'm interested to see what the difference between it and the OE tune really is. I need to order the HDR1 from Moates so I can get the factory BIN off it as well.

@Fast355 your conversion diagram in the sticky, is that F-body TBI to 7427 pinouts? I hope to use jumpers and power up my 7427 on the bench to make sure it's viable before I start the repinning and cripple my Camaro.

 

That diagram should work for any of the C3 TBI ECMs to 7427.

 

I've been trying for a couple days to power up the ECM on the bench and talk to it. Tonight I got it to work. I had my powers and grounds right and had the right data stream wires, but had them hooked to my ALDL connector incorrectly.

Tonight I got it right and was able to get the data stream from the ECM. I watched it set the codes for the different missing sensors (no harness, just jumpers to the wiring) as it detected low voltages from them. Everything seems ready to start repinning.

I also removed the IAT/MAT from my BIN and burned a chip for it. Hopefully I'll find time to repin the ECM this weekend.

 

I guess I was in a hurry when I ordered the injectors and it says right on CFM Technologies website that their 5.0L injectors are actually 5.7L injectors. That explains my BLMs.

I'll have to correct for that in my 7427 BIN.