Trying to get a 1989 Formula back on the road, it was originally a 5.0 TBI and we bought a 350 rebuilt block to put back in it, turns out the new block isnt a roller block, but it is a fuel inj. block and heads.... SOOOOO, i thought i would throw on a holley 670 TBI unit, holley TBI intake, SLP headers, y-pips, and cat back, and either crane or comp roller camshaft, lifters, rods, springs, ect.
WELL, turns out it will be almost $800 just for the whole valvetrain(not including roller rockers) which we spent just $800 on just the rebuilt block. the block now has a new hydrolic non-roller cam and lifters that i can install, or should i go with the roller, or should i sell this setup and get a crate motor?
i have all the part numbers for everything i would need either way(other than what crate motor to get if we go that way)
i just htought it was a little much to spend $800 to put a nice roller cam in this block. heck, should i just get the edlebrock hydrolic cam since my block isnt roller?

i value the peopples opions from this board since i have been reading it every chance i get to see what i should do, but since the girlfriend bought a non-roller block, i am confused in what i should do to get this car going.

Some info on the car if needed
1989 Pontiac Formula 5.0 TBI
Automatic
2.73 open rear, with plans of putting in 3.23 posi
WS6 suspension
no t-tops


Thank you in advanced
Joe

 

I did very much the same thing. I replaced the 305 LO3 in my 91 camaro which had the stock roller cam and put in a 350 with a regular hydraulic cam. Comp Cams 260H. I also put on SR Torker heads. I bolted on the stock TBI. When I tried to put the stock valve covers back on they hit the rocker arms so I had to get taller valve covers. Other than that everything is good. I think I'm running a little lean now and the computer throws up the SSES light that reads out as ESC. I think the computer is having trouble crunching the numbers on the 350 because it thinks it is still the 305. Other than that the only problem is a slightly rough idle which is probably a combination of the computer and the cam. I have the 5 speed so I cant say for sure what will happen with your auto. All in all I'm very happy with it and next I'm getting a new PROM which I figure will perfect everything.

If I were you I would keep the block you have and use the hydraulic non roller. The rollers are good because they last a long time and they dont screw up the low end as much. But they cost an arm and a leg. Hell, I got my comp cam for like $90. If you go for a solid lifter its even cheaper but then you got the extra maintanence. Plus I'm not so sure if you can get a roller to fit in a non roller block. I think there is a way to fit a non roller in a roller block but not the other way. Let me know what you decide.

 

roller is nice but if i were you i would just go out and buy a hydraulic cam

 

Roller is great for a low maintenance build. Even then I've seen plenty of 80's TBI 350 trucks with original flat tap cams and 200K+ miles. The problem with flat tap is the higher lift numbers. You chance rounding off a lobe if you go too high or don't break in the cam correctly. Roller cams have none of these problems.
I think I'm proof that a flat tap cam can make great power. The advantages of roller are the valve open speed and more area under the lobe (more time valve is open). A mild 350 doesn't benifit much from these advantages.
Depending on what YOU want to do, I'd either get a basic cam and bolt the stock TB unit up with larger 350 injectors if expecting less than 300hp. If you think you'll be making more, go with the holley unit and a decent intake. A crate motor is always an option but I don't know if I would do it if you've already got a 350. Not to mention most of the newer crate motors have 1 piece rear seal and I'm just speculating but you probably have a 2 bolt rear main seal block if it isn't a roller cam ready. This means you'de need a different flywheel/flexplate.
The only difference between your 350 and a roller block is that it would be cheaper in the long run to use a roller block. They do make roller setups for non-roller blocks. They use either a vert or horiz bar setup to keep the lifters aligned. Some even have springs in them so you can change the cam without removing the intake or pushrods, just need to loosen the rocker arms and let the pushrod come up with the lifter . They're pretty neat if you're into doing lots of cams swaps.
I'm not upset with my engine but I did wish it would have come with a roller cam. It's a little disapointing and I sometimes get goosebumps just thinking about the solid metal on metal of the flat tap cam. I get the same feeling about the rocker arms.
I'm sure whatever route you go you'll be happy with it, heck, either way it's a 350 .

 

buy a 150 dollar Flat tappet cam and lifter set and be happy

thats what I did at least