Hey guys if anyone can help me figure this out you get a cookie. When I give my car gas I hear this sound almost like a fluttering coming out of the passenger side thorttle bore. It is there no matter whut, the car can be warm, it can be cold it doesnt really matter. I have noticed though that sometimes it is louder then other times. But that is really the only thing that I can notice. I thought about it being a dirty fuel injector so I looked at the spray and it apprears to be fine, I cant really tell cuz the spray is soo fast i cant tell for sure. Anyone have any ideas what it could be? Remember you get a cookie

Thanks.

 

How many miles are on that engine? Maybe a burnt valve. How does the exhaust sound.

 

160, 000 hehehe, The exhaust sounds fine. NJSpeeder said it could be the IAC not shuttin all the way I am gonna go try that. Any other ideas. I got cookies up the waazooo.

 

Could be your imagination ...

I like Double-Stuff Oreo's!

 

Ive got the same thing happenin on my car, its a 92 RS with 43,000 miles on it. Id like to know the answer to the mystery too.

Andrew

 

Some one has to know???

 

I am going to guess and say the TPS.
It makes a real high pitched sound when the TPS sticks.
I'm having a problem with my TPS I think, and it is causing me an error 21. Where's a voltmeter when you need one?
I'm thinking mine is set way too wrong. I have the feeling I am too far advanced at idle, (around 1050 RPM), and the blades are nearly shut.
I'm thinking of opening them more and retarding the timing and getting it to idle around 750 or so.
I think right now I am running at 6 degrees advanced... maybe I should go 0?

I think there is even the possibility of my harmonic balancer being out of whack!

 

Pork, sounds like a normal IAC operation. The IAC is always open, hot, cold, driving around, doesn't matter. It's always controlling your engine rpm. If there is dirt or crud inside the IAC passage it could cause an abnormal whistle sound but there should still be a sound. I'd like to play with a stock L03 and the IAC. I want to see if I can limit the use of the IAC without causing the car to stall.
This might be above a lot of peopls heads but the IAC sucks for low end power. It bypasses the throttle blades and in doing so, robs some air velocity that would normally help atomize the fuel. For those that don't understand how TBI works at low throttle position; fuel is injected onto the bore but the air speed past the throttle blades atomizes the fuel like the venturi effect does for carbs. It's more of a shearing action and works rather well. When you have the IAC open with lots of counts you could/might experience loud irratic engine rpm opration in and out of gear, not so great gas milage, too high of an idle, and other various issues. This is a might, it's not really noticable but if you can get a scanner, it's best to set your min idle so that when the car is warm (above 150) the IAC steps should be around 20, doesn't have to be exactly 20 but if yours are at 100, you should adjust. The problem with adjusting the min idle is that it also moves the TPS sensor, you should also adjust that so that it's below .8 volts at idle and 4.5 @ WOT. You can check the TPS with the key in the on position, car doesn't have to be running!

 

resonating waves from intake valve opening and closing?

doesnt happen on other side because of slight runner length differences or plenum volume diffs?

thats my shot in the dark.