I am going to replace my stock air cleaner assembly on my 1990 305 TBI with an open element air cleaner. K&N offers a flat base with 1-1/2" offset base to 'clear HEI distributors' and a 2-5/16" element. Is this the correct assembly that I should use? Thank you for your help.

 

TBIs use a small distributor cap with remote mounted ignition coil. So an offset base is not required to clear it. You can (should) use a K&N 14" x 3" element PN#E1650 with any 14" non-drop-base air cleaner assembly when you remove the cad-plate spacer ring that's found under the stock air cleaner.

 

Thats the one that I'm using. Part number KNN-60-1263 from summit. I punched a hole and have the IAT Sensor installed in the filter. I dunno, i wanted to be safe, and dont forget to cap of the vacumm line when you remove the old one.

 

Now if I am using an adaptor plate on a carb intake for my TBI, will I still be able to use a non-drop base with a 14X3"? Or should I go down to 2 1/2" or 2"?
I'm not sure if the manifold itself is higher than the stock one or not. But, I will be removing the spacer ring anyway. Right now I have a 2 1/2" and am still using the spacer ring, and on a non-drop base. I don't know what I can use. It seems that I should just stay with the 2 1/2" filter then.

Gt any solutions?

 

im running the same setup as deadtrend also...works good

 

How did u get all of the sensors off of
the air cleaner. I need some serious help
here!

 

TZFBird: Chances are that your carb intake is slightly taller than a stock intake and you'll probably have to use a slightly shorter element to clear a stock hood (3" or less). Only sure way to tell is to try it though. If you're using a 2 1/2" element and the spacer ring on a non-drop base and it clears, look to see if you have another half inch clearance. If you still have the underhood insulator and you can see where the TBI stud rubs into it, then you don't have the clearance. If you have the clearance, I'm sure a 3" element would clear. But honestly, I doubt you'd see an actual gain from going from 2 1/2" to 3", so you're better off "bang per buck"-wise staying where you are.

Ride4ME: there's only one actual sensor that you're concerned with on the intake, and that's the IAT (Intake Air Temperature sensor). It's held in the stock intake by two barbs which you just squeeze together to remove. It can be installed in the new open element air cleaner or relocated elsewhere in the engine compartment. Most open element air cleaners come with provisions for the IAC sensor (a hole, and adapter or whatever)The rest of the stuff (thermac sensor, valve, etc) comes off with the air cleaner assembly when you remove it, and you plug the vac. tube that used to be connected to the throttle body.

I'm running a $15 Mr. Gasket non-drop open element air cleaner found any Discount Auto Parts Stores everywhere with a #1650 K&N air filter ($40). It came with an adapter for the IAT sensor and everything fits flawlessly. It looks good, just the chrome is a little cheap, but I don't care since I'm building a TPI motor on the side for the car. 15 bucks is a good price for the performance increase. Pay any more than that and it loses it's perceived value and you get into "paying for looks" territory.

 

there is a indent in the new base that you can use as a guide to where the new IAT sensor should go. I used a 1/2 drill bit (my drill is a POS so it only has a 1/2 in chuck, and filed it out untill i got the IAT sensor to fit it. I found a little rubber plug in a Misc. drawer in my tool box and it was a perfect fit for the vacumm line.
~Tim

 

thanx peeps.
My RS is sick at the moment(fuel pump)
But after that's done I'll do it.

 

I'll use the filter I'm using now, but it's getting a little dirty. If it doesn't work, I'll go bigger or smaller.

Thanks for the info though.