What is a true sign of a bad alternator?
With the car running, put a voltmeter across the battery. What does it read? A proper reading should be around 13.5-14.4 volts.
Since you have a serpentine setup, it will proably take you longer to drive to your local auto parts store to test it out, then it will to actually remove the alternator from the car. Takes me about 15 mins.
Since you have a serpentine setup, it will proably take you longer to drive to your local auto parts store to test it out, then it will to actually remove the alternator from the car. Takes me about 15 mins.
The "true sign of a bad alternator"? Constantly having to jump-start your car. 
Typically, a car won't charge after you turn it off. Not weird at all. 
Anyway, I'm just being less than useful because Omar pretty much said it. 13.5-14.4 volts with car running. Anything less=bad sign.

Im still having wierd occurances with my car not charging up after I turn it off

Anyway, I'm just being less than useful because Omar pretty much said it. 13.5-14.4 volts with car running. Anything less=bad sign.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,197
Likes: 10
From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
If you meant that you are losing a charge when you leave it sit, the proper way to track that down is through probing your harness and fuse panel until you isolate the offending circuit.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,526
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From: Cleveland, OH
Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
some parts stores will do an on car check for free. we did this at murray's discount auto when i worked there, the diagnostic tool would check the battery, starter and alternator and it was really accurate with diagnosis.
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I always use the voltmeter too... engine off = 12 volts, engine running = what Omar said.
Also- something odd on my '86 Firebird- it has a battery light. Know how all the dash lights come on when you turn your key to "on" before you crank the engine? Well, if this dumb battery light is NOT ON, it means the alternator's regulator has fried. Stupid, eh? Who looks for a MISSING warning light? Argh.
A common failure for my year of alternator (mid 80's) is rear bearing failure due to overheating. One alternator that died was throwing sparks! "What's that noise? I'll pop the hood- oh s%#*!!!"
Also- something odd on my '86 Firebird- it has a battery light. Know how all the dash lights come on when you turn your key to "on" before you crank the engine? Well, if this dumb battery light is NOT ON, it means the alternator's regulator has fried. Stupid, eh? Who looks for a MISSING warning light? Argh.
A common failure for my year of alternator (mid 80's) is rear bearing failure due to overheating. One alternator that died was throwing sparks! "What's that noise? I'll pop the hood- oh s%#*!!!"
easy free check you can do yourself
with the engine running....disconect the battery......a good alternator will keep the motor running....if it's bad it will die as soon as you pull the connection.
Re: easy free check you can do yourself
Originally posted by Fast3rdGen
with the engine running....disconect the battery......a good alternator will keep the motor running....if it's bad it will die as soon as you pull the connection.
with the engine running....disconect the battery......a good alternator will keep the motor running....if it's bad it will die as soon as you pull the connection.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
From: Cleveland, OH
Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!!!!!!
this is no longer an acceptable method of diagnosis, it can screw stuff up bad. i can't remember the specific details but i know you're not supposed to do that
this is no longer an acceptable method of diagnosis, it can screw stuff up bad. i can't remember the specific details but i know you're not supposed to do that
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