Was putting the rear main seal into the seal "bracket" on my L98 engine the other night. I ended up having to hammer it in with a board on top to evenly distribute the pressure. It went in straight, but I read shortly after that that I should "apply a thin film of silicone" on the outside of the seal before I put it in the bracket. It's definately in there tight without the silicone, and the old one didn't seem to have any silicone on it. Does it seem likelye that, without the silicone, it might leak? Should I go ahead and pull the thing off and silicone it? I've already got the seal-bracket siliconed to the block, which means I'd need to replace that gasket, and I don't know if I could get the seal out without breaking it, so I don't want to have to go back unless I have to.

Any advice is appreciated.

BTW -- This is our (my dad and mine) first engine reassembly, so forgive me, but I might be posting here about little things here and there frequently... hopefully I won't need to, though! (We have a pretty good book.)

 

i put the brush on kind of sealer on it, if you can get to it now i'd buy another seal and do it.

 

I wouldnt use sealer on it. Theres about 5 ribs on the outside diameter, and like you found out... its a tight fit. If it gets past all that, nothing is going to stop it from leaking.

 

Sancho,

That's why we're all here. Post all the technical questions you want. As much as it may hurt, it makes us all think a little more.

WOW! Differring opinions!? And among the moderators, too! Boys! Boys! Settle down...

The original (whatever year) factory seal design may have been good without sealant. But not knowing what kind of seal you have, I would tend to agree with the instructions and try to remove the seal, then apply the sealant. Max is probably right, in the if it went in that tightly, it isn't likely to leak. However, you'll really kick yourself later if you develop a drip at the rear main, knowing you didn't seal it in as instructed. And if you intend to eventually run synthetic lubricant after the break-in (as I would do with a fresh engine) the synthetic will tend to wick past anything that isn't sealed well. It won't make it leak, but will expose all the little flaws you might leave behind.

At worst, you waste a new seal. It's certainly easier than trying to drop the crank later.