AC ???? :confused:
AC ???? :confused:
I have a few questions about my AC hope you can help.
My AC has not worked for a good 3 yeas now (blows hot air).
I pushed the valve , the one at the top of the accumulator, and nothing came out its empty right?
If all the R12 ran out could my compresser still be ok or is it fried?
How do you test the compresser to see if its ok or shoot?
I think i'm going to do the R-134 retro-fit but not sure if I want to do it myself!
:lala:
My AC has not worked for a good 3 yeas now (blows hot air).
I pushed the valve , the one at the top of the accumulator, and nothing came out its empty right?
If all the R12 ran out could my compresser still be ok or is it fried?
How do you test the compresser to see if its ok or shoot?
I think i'm going to do the R-134 retro-fit but not sure if I want to do it myself!
:lala: Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Right, that would mean there's nothing in there.
The compressor could be OK if the low pressure cutoff has been hooked up properly; or, on the other hand, it might be the leak. You can turn the compressor itself by hand, not just the clutch pulley, and see if it's locked up. If it turns, odds are it's OK otherwise except for the possibility of a leak. The usual leak is the shaft seal. If there's oil on the front of the clutch, it leaks.
The compressor could be OK if the low pressure cutoff has been hooked up properly; or, on the other hand, it might be the leak. You can turn the compressor itself by hand, not just the clutch pulley, and see if it's locked up. If it turns, odds are it's OK otherwise except for the possibility of a leak. The usual leak is the shaft seal. If there's oil on the front of the clutch, it leaks.
RE- AC ?? :confused:
My AC has not worked for a good 3 years now (blows hot air).
I pushed the valve , the one at the top of the accumulator, and nothing came out its empty right?
If all the R12 ran out could my compresser still be ok or is it fried?
How do you test the compresser to see if its ok or shoot?
I think i'm going to do the R-134 retro-fit but not sure if I want to do it myself!
OTE]QUOTE]Originally posted by RB83L69
[B]Right, that would mean there's nothing in there.
The compressor could be OK if the low pressure cutoff has been hooked up properly; or, on the other hand, it might be the leak. You can turn the compressor itself by hand, not just the clutch pulley, and see if it's locked up. If it turns, odds are it's OK otherwise except for the possibility of a leak. The usual leak is the shaft seal. If there's oil on the front of the clutch, it leaks.
OK, I checked the compressor by jumping the connector on the accumulator heard a click from the compressor and my idle went a little higher seems ok. (only had AC on a few seconds)
I also took the compressor and accumulator off (compressor turns freely) did not notice any leaks but when i turned both units upside-down no oil came out. Both units look brand new inside.
I'm going to do the R-12 to R-134a switch but have a few more ??.
Can i take the cycling switch off the old accumulator and put on the new one?
Where is the orifice tube?
I'm going to replace the accumulator,orifice tube (if i can find it)and the hoses any thing else i should replace?
I have the Chilton Repair Manual Camaro 1982 to 1988 No.7317(yellow Camaro on cover) not very helpful on the AC. (no good pictures of my AC I like pictures) any other good books?
Thanks!!!
I pushed the valve , the one at the top of the accumulator, and nothing came out its empty right?
If all the R12 ran out could my compresser still be ok or is it fried?
How do you test the compresser to see if its ok or shoot?
I think i'm going to do the R-134 retro-fit but not sure if I want to do it myself!
OTE]QUOTE]Originally posted by RB83L69
[B]Right, that would mean there's nothing in there.
The compressor could be OK if the low pressure cutoff has been hooked up properly; or, on the other hand, it might be the leak. You can turn the compressor itself by hand, not just the clutch pulley, and see if it's locked up. If it turns, odds are it's OK otherwise except for the possibility of a leak. The usual leak is the shaft seal. If there's oil on the front of the clutch, it leaks.
OK, I checked the compressor by jumping the connector on the accumulator heard a click from the compressor and my idle went a little higher seems ok. (only had AC on a few seconds)
I also took the compressor and accumulator off (compressor turns freely) did not notice any leaks but when i turned both units upside-down no oil came out. Both units look brand new inside.
I'm going to do the R-12 to R-134a switch but have a few more ??.
Can i take the cycling switch off the old accumulator and put on the new one?
Where is the orifice tube?
I'm going to replace the accumulator,orifice tube (if i can find it)and the hoses any thing else i should replace?
I have the Chilton Repair Manual Camaro 1982 to 1988 No.7317(yellow Camaro on cover) not very helpful on the AC. (no good pictures of my AC I like pictures) any other good books?
Thanks!!!
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,353
Likes: 3
From: Austin
Car: 82 Z-28
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Check out this site:
http://www.aircondition.com/wwwboard/
Do a search, there's tons of good info there.
To convert to 134A:
You'll definately have to flush system, may have to replace hoses, may need to upgrade condensor, you'll need adapters for your charge fittings, not to mention all the regular stuff needed to service a system (vacuum pump, dual gauges, leak checker).
People using the Wallmart conversion kit or something similiar is what keeps the professional A/C guys busy.
The two refrigerants use 2 completely different oils and they don't get along!
If you need a new/rebuilt compressor, check that out on the a/c site as well. Those guys call "Four Seasons" compressors
"For Sieze'ings" for a reason!
On my car, the orfice tube is in the small metal line that goes from the condensor to the firewall. You should see a fitting where line separates. Next to the fitting (on the downstream side) you should see a small bulge where the orfice tube actually slips into.
If you find any metal in orfice tube, compressor is a goner.
If A/C hasen't been working in 3 years, compressor is probably gonna leak out front shaft seal.
http://www.aircondition.com/wwwboard/
Do a search, there's tons of good info there.
To convert to 134A:
You'll definately have to flush system, may have to replace hoses, may need to upgrade condensor, you'll need adapters for your charge fittings, not to mention all the regular stuff needed to service a system (vacuum pump, dual gauges, leak checker).
People using the Wallmart conversion kit or something similiar is what keeps the professional A/C guys busy.
The two refrigerants use 2 completely different oils and they don't get along!
If you need a new/rebuilt compressor, check that out on the a/c site as well. Those guys call "Four Seasons" compressors
"For Sieze'ings" for a reason!
On my car, the orfice tube is in the small metal line that goes from the condensor to the firewall. You should see a fitting where line separates. Next to the fitting (on the downstream side) you should see a small bulge where the orfice tube actually slips into.
If you find any metal in orfice tube, compressor is a goner.
If A/C hasen't been working in 3 years, compressor is probably gonna leak out front shaft seal.
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