Best chemical to spray on rusted bolts?
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Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Ohio, USA
Car: 2015 Camaro Z/28 & 2013 Super Bee
Engine: LS7 and 392 HEMI
Best chemical to spray on rusted bolts?
What have you guys found to be the best thing to spray on rusted bolts to loosen them up?
My personal order of preference for penetrating oils:
1. PB Blaster
2. Liquid Wrench
3. WD-40
And if you can spare the time, definitely hit it, let it sit overnight, then hit it again before your start work. Worth the wait if you're not rushed or on a schedule (got school or work in the morning).
1. PB Blaster
2. Liquid Wrench
3. WD-40
And if you can spare the time, definitely hit it, let it sit overnight, then hit it again before your start work. Worth the wait if you're not rushed or on a schedule (got school or work in the morning).
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: San Rafael, CA
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.7L TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700RJunk
PB blaster is something else (certainly smells like it). I used it when i was removing my old manifolds off my gta and after that stuff did its business you could practically hand-loosen them. Liquid wrench and WD40 work pretty well too...
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,353
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From: Austin
Car: 82 Z-28
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
At my former work site (General aviation maint) we tried everything on exh manifold bolts/studs and wound up using a product called "Mouse Milk".
It works great on rust, but it's expensive ($17 for 8 ozs a few years ago) and really hard to find.
I bought a bottle abt 8 years ago and still have abt 1 oz left..
It goes a looong ways.
I used it recently on my sway bar end links.
They haven't been apart in 20 years, but came right off using the mouse milk.
If anyone is interested,
it's distributed by:
Worldwide Filter
1689 Abram Cr
San Leandro, Ca 94577
It works great on rust, but it's expensive ($17 for 8 ozs a few years ago) and really hard to find.
I bought a bottle abt 8 years ago and still have abt 1 oz left..
It goes a looong ways.
I used it recently on my sway bar end links.
They haven't been apart in 20 years, but came right off using the mouse milk.
If anyone is interested,
it's distributed by:
Worldwide Filter
1689 Abram Cr
San Leandro, Ca 94577
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Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Ohio, USA
Car: 2015 Camaro Z/28 & 2013 Super Bee
Engine: LS7 and 392 HEMI
Originally posted by ZZ28ZZ
I used it recently on my sway bar end links.
I used it recently on my sway bar end links.
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From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
PB Blaster again! That stuff is awesome.
Of course since I've moved from OH to GA I don't have a problem with rusted anything. My can of PB Blaster is collecting dust on the shelf.
Of course since I've moved from OH to GA I don't have a problem with rusted anything. My can of PB Blaster is collecting dust on the shelf.
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From: Palm Bay, FL
Car: 2007 Corvette Z06
Engine: LS7
Transmission: 6 speed
Kroil or aerokroil
615 833 4101
www.kanolabs.com
1000 S Thompson Ln.
Nashville, TN 37211
I don't know how much it costs per can, but I use it at work (powerplant) and it works wonders on getting off bolts that have been in 2000*+ heat and years worth of ash build up.
I'm going to look for that Pb Blaster though, seems like a lot of people have been happy with it.
615 833 4101
www.kanolabs.com
1000 S Thompson Ln.
Nashville, TN 37211
I don't know how much it costs per can, but I use it at work (powerplant) and it works wonders on getting off bolts that have been in 2000*+ heat and years worth of ash build up.
I'm going to look for that Pb Blaster though, seems like a lot of people have been happy with it.
the absolute BEST way to get a rusted, or any stuck bolt out is to hit it with a torch and get it cherry red. Then as soon as its red hit it with your penatrating fluid.
I used to do that to get oil gallery plugs out....after you do that they come out like they were just put in there....
I used to do that to get oil gallery plugs out....after you do that they come out like they were just put in there....
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 659
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From: Chesapeake, VA
Car: '86 TransAm WS6
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Custom TH700R4
Yup, PB Blaster or Kroil are good choices.
Another good technique is to heat with torch, and then zap them with 'Freeze Spray' which is used for troubleshooting electronics. Get it at Radio Shack. I dont reccomend re-using any bolt you try this on though, as the rapid heatingcooling cycle may sometimes crack the bolts. I split a 3/4" dia. grade 5 set screw doing that once.
Another good technique is to heat with torch, and then zap them with 'Freeze Spray' which is used for troubleshooting electronics. Get it at Radio Shack. I dont reccomend re-using any bolt you try this on though, as the rapid heatingcooling cycle may sometimes crack the bolts. I split a 3/4" dia. grade 5 set screw doing that once.
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Never heard of PB Blaster so I'm no help there, but Kroil is the cat's ***...period. This stuff could loosen up my ex!!
www.kanolabs.com
www.kanolabs.com
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 564
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From: Cathlamet, Washington
Car: 87 Formula
Engine: 327
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Used to use Kroil and that works good. But I've switched to Deep Creep now seems to work a little better. Many times i can remove the nut from the manifold studs with my fingers after breaking loose. Deep Creep is a Seafoam product.Havent tried blaster yet Creep works too good to change.
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From: Ohio, USA
Car: 2015 Camaro Z/28 & 2013 Super Bee
Engine: LS7 and 392 HEMI
Originally posted by SkyWarrior
I vote for PB Blaster.
"oh yeah, you can milk anything with nipples."
I vote for PB Blaster.
"oh yeah, you can milk anything with nipples."
I bought some PB Blaster and it worked pretty well on 2 of the bolts. I still had to use a torch on a couple bolts and a hacksaw on the sway bar endlinks. This car was pretty rusted underneath.
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
From experience with my 2 cars, the end links should be destroyed and replaced anyway.
Re: Best chemical to spray on rusted bolts?
after stripping my alternator bolt suing the ratchet is the next best bet a vice grips? I sprayed it with pb blaster and its soaking overnight...any suggestions
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From: Bloomington, IN
Car: 1986 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: Borg Warner 5 Speed
Re: Best chemical to spray on rusted bolts?
I suggest using a pry bar to take some of the stress off the bolt before you vise grip it. and yea vise grip it, as tight as you can get them. SO tight that if they pop off the speed with which they pop off causes enough friction to make the air around them as hot as the sun.
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