fuel pump and carb question?
fuel pump and carb question?
okay well right now i have a problem with either my fuel pump or my carb. i asked an ASE certifide machanic at work (pep-boys) and another emplyee had the same problem with his oldsmyblie ( spellin on that) and his fuel pump went. and i told the machanic my problems and right away he remebered from the emplyee with the olds. and said its either the pump or carb.
now my questions are. is Borg Warner a good company that sells fuel pumps? becuz we have one at pepboys in stock and i can get it for cheap. also if i get the edelbrock 600 cfm carb with elec. choke. how hard is it to swap carbs? and how long should it take to do so? and i know i have to get and adapter for my manifold since i have a edelbrock proformer and its a spreadbore intake and the carb is a square bore set up.
so if anyone can help. thanx a lot.
tim
now my questions are. is Borg Warner a good company that sells fuel pumps? becuz we have one at pepboys in stock and i can get it for cheap. also if i get the edelbrock 600 cfm carb with elec. choke. how hard is it to swap carbs? and how long should it take to do so? and i know i have to get and adapter for my manifold since i have a edelbrock proformer and its a spreadbore intake and the carb is a square bore set up.
so if anyone can help. thanx a lot.
tim
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 148
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From: Moss Pont, MS
Car: 88 Camaro SC, 86 T/A, 92 Eclipse
Hey, first off do you know which is bad yet?
If its your fuel pump, borg-warner is a pretty good manufacterer,
since you work there and get a discount(20%?) you might as well get it.
If the carb is "bad" and you want an eddie then the swap shouldn't be hard nor time consuming, if its just the pump though (correct me if i'm wrong here) but you probably wont see much preformance difference (for the price) between the eddie600 and the stock q-jet unless its just in bad shape.
If its your fuel pump, borg-warner is a pretty good manufacterer,
since you work there and get a discount(20%?) you might as well get it.
If the carb is "bad" and you want an eddie then the swap shouldn't be hard nor time consuming, if its just the pump though (correct me if i'm wrong here) but you probably wont see much preformance difference (for the price) between the eddie600 and the stock q-jet unless its just in bad shape.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
I agree, the B-W pump should be just fine.
I would not put one of those carbs on my car, period. It won't run any better than the Q-Jet would if it was made to work right, and it's certainly not the cheapest way to go because you'll need a non-computerized distributor too.
Before you just go strafing your car with money, what are the symptoms you would like to cure?
I would not put one of those carbs on my car, period. It won't run any better than the Q-Jet would if it was made to work right, and it's certainly not the cheapest way to go because you'll need a non-computerized distributor too.
Before you just go strafing your car with money, what are the symptoms you would like to cure?
well the car already has now computer and everything is hooked up right with the distributor and all that. the symptoms are that when im driving even a short distance , and something will act up to were i can push the gas and it starts to starve for fuel and starts to pop or back fire. its like when the car gets to a certain temp. it almost stops giving the car fuel, until i stop for a min to let it cool down a bit. and aftewr i let it cool down a bit, i can start it up and dive off again but it will do that again probably like 5 mins later.
and the guy that i work with the one with the olds. even said those were the same symptoms he had. and soon the fuel pump crapped out and he had to get a new one.
and the guy that i work with the one with the olds. even said those were the same symptoms he had. and soon the fuel pump crapped out and he had to get a new one.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Try replacing the fuel filter first. It's in the big fuel inlet nut at the front of the carb. Take the fuel line loose from teh carb while holding the big nut still with a 1" wrench, then remove the big nut and change the filter. If that doesn't fix it, replace the pump.
I'll bet it's the filter. I'll also bet it was actually your friend's filter; the new pump just had enough cajones to force the fuel through the caked up gunk in his old filter.
I'll bet it's the filter. I'll also bet it was actually your friend's filter; the new pump just had enough cajones to force the fuel through the caked up gunk in his old filter.
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i replaced the fuel filter the other day actually on monday. and i went to the bank witch is like a mile back and forth. and as i was coming home it acted up again. and i havent driven the car since then.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,743
Likes: 0
From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
Originally posted by 1982chevycamaroz28
the symptoms are that when im driving even a short distance , and something will act up to were i can push the gas and it starts to starve for fuel and starts to pop or back fire. its like when the car gets to a certain temp. it almost stops giving the car fuel, until i stop for a min to let it cool down a bit. and aftewr i let it cool down a bit, i can start it up and dive off again but it will do that again probably like 5 mins later.
the symptoms are that when im driving even a short distance , and something will act up to were i can push the gas and it starts to starve for fuel and starts to pop or back fire. its like when the car gets to a certain temp. it almost stops giving the car fuel, until i stop for a min to let it cool down a bit. and aftewr i let it cool down a bit, i can start it up and dive off again but it will do that again probably like 5 mins later.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Sounds like an Ignition problem to me too.
Check the pickup coil and little wires that go to the module.
and check the module and the coil too.
Check the pickup coil and little wires that go to the module.
and check the module and the coil too.
Last edited by F-BIRD'88; Jun 29, 2002 at 09:14 AM.
A bad fuel pump would act up whenever you give it gas, if it takes time and a good warm up for it to act up, I'd look at another area. Ignition is a good bet. Backfiring is usually a sign of that. It sounds to me that you are getting a good amount of fuel from your descriptions.
so should i check tha plugs and whatnot? everything ingnition wise is all brand new. i have new distributor , cap, rotor, coil, plug,wires, starter,battery. could it be my plugs, becuz i just started driving the car 2 weeks ago and the car sat for about 1yr and a half before now. i think ill still pick up a new fuel pump and also get some plugs tomarrow. everything under the rotor has been put in by a mechanic and not me. but im still goin to replace the plugs and wires before the fbody nationals becuz i want to make a few runs.
also when im running the car it sounds like im missing a cylender. like ur hear the exuast and then u can hear a faith like thud kinda sound. its hard to discirbe but my brother also said that it sounds like im missing a cylender. how do i fix that? i need this car workin great again. im still goin to replace the pump on monday but ill also do the plugs too. and i also think the plug gap that i have on my car now i .035 and not .045. becuz when i put the plugs in i mesured one of my brothers old ones and his was .035 and in the book it says .045. ill try that also. and then ill spend more money and get a new set of plug wires and the accel super coil. my brother has it on his 86 and it works pretty good. well if anyone else can help thanx.
the plug gap should be .035 unless you have one of the following:
88-91 350(5.7L) w/aluminum heads(.045)
93-95 350 w/ engine code P(.050)
or a 4th gen 305 w/ engine code M(.060)
350 w/ engine code G or P(.060)
88-91 350(5.7L) w/aluminum heads(.045)
93-95 350 w/ engine code P(.050)
or a 4th gen 305 w/ engine code M(.060)
350 w/ engine code G or P(.060)
well in my chiltons book it says .045 for alot of the yr camaro's. and for my yr it says .045. also should i replace my plugs? would that also help. becuz before i got my car inspected all i would do is start the car and let it run and charge the batter for like 10 mins and shut it off. i would do that ever now and then. could that also cause a problem?
Last edited by 1982chevycamaroz28; Jun 29, 2002 at 10:26 PM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,743
Likes: 0
From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
So the cars been sitting...have you ran out the old gas...you could have moisture in the system, this could also cause the symptoms you describe. Add some gas drier to the tank and see if it helps. Anothe thing you might try is blowing some air in the feed line of the tank...maybe the pick-up screen in the tank is clogged.
When I do a tune=up, I try to replace all of the components at the same time....it just seems to work better for me. Seems replacing only some components brings out the bad in the others. I have no proof to back this up, It just works better for me.
One other thing to check...if it has an incap coil, there is a little button between the rotor and the center terminal, that is attached to a spring..it gets carboned up and overlooked alot of times.
Keep on plugging away, could be a loose connection at the distributor also or maybe a bare wire somewhere.
When I do a tune=up, I try to replace all of the components at the same time....it just seems to work better for me. Seems replacing only some components brings out the bad in the others. I have no proof to back this up, It just works better for me.
One other thing to check...if it has an incap coil, there is a little button between the rotor and the center terminal, that is attached to a spring..it gets carboned up and overlooked alot of times.
Keep on plugging away, could be a loose connection at the distributor also or maybe a bare wire somewhere.
could it also be the type of gas i used. becuz i always run sunoco 94 and before we took my car to aamco to get a tranny tune up we had to put moble or exxon gas in it. im not sure which one. but yea iv e burned up all the old gas while ago. also before inspection i put in 2 bottles of dry gas and a bottle of this gas treatment stuff. could that be the problem.
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