HELP FAST,, Charging Problem
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
HELP FAST,, Charging Problem
On my 1990 Mustang 2.3L, I just noticed my battery light came on, and the volt gauge is reading very low, it's still in the normal range, but it's not at 13 where it should be. I haven't noticed any problems out of it though. Could my battery eventually go dead? What's wrong? OH yeah, the battery is new.
I have to go to work in about 1.5 hrs and I'd rather drive it with 31mpg rather than my 18mpg IROC on a 70 mile round trip work ride.
I have to go to work in about 1.5 hrs and I'd rather drive it with 31mpg rather than my 18mpg IROC on a 70 mile round trip work ride.
Last edited by Mark A Shields; Jul 10, 2002 at 08:25 AM.
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Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Originally posted by felo72
I don't know much about Fords, but I'll take a stab at it, does it have an external voltage regulator? If not, check the alternator. It's a start atleast.
I don't know much about Fords, but I'll take a stab at it, does it have an external voltage regulator? If not, check the alternator. It's a start atleast.
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From: Tucson, AZ
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: Can you say stroke?!?!
Transmission: 700-r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I want to say that the voltage regulator is internal. There is a way to test it but since it is a FORD, I don't know how to. Better take down to have it tested.
New alternators have an internal voltage regulator, which can be tested for output by most chains of parts stores. Take it off and have the alternator tested, no big deal. I think you'll find that a new alternator is in your future.
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Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
Likes: 1
From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Thanks guys, yeah my brother said I need a new one. So I can take the alt off the car for it to be tested? Cool.
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I thought auto zone had a machine they can wheel out to your car and hook up to the altenator without you having to take it out. I know two people this month, one with an escort and one with an explorer had the same problem and it was the altenator. If it is your altenator, you should be able to turn on your lights and stuff while it is running and they will get dim and your car will eventually die. Since it will drain your battery and you have to have a certain amount of power for the computer to function. It's not your battery, because your altenator takes over making power once your car is started.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
Likes: 1
From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
I'm sure they can test it while on the vehicle, but I don't want to chance driving there just on the battery.
As long as your not driving there at night with your lights on, you shouldn't really have any problem. Just try not to run any accesories. If you have a charger, give your battery a good charge before you leave. But then again, I am about 99% sure it is your altenator, so you will have to take it off anyway. Keep us posted, altenator shouldn't be that much to buy. Just make sure and buy one with a lifetime warranty and keep your reciept. Sure you can get the cheap one with no warranty, but it pays off. If you go through advanced auto or another cheap place, don't be surprised if you get a bad one right out of the box. I have saw it happen more than once. NAPA has good quality parts, but is a little more expensive. Good luck Jason
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Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
Likes: 1
From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
I checked autozone.com and they want $80 and charge an additional $40 for a core, that's knocked off soon as I give them my old one. I was expecting to pay around $60-$80. If I get a bad one, i'll be pissed.
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