Riley's35089rs+

these are the heads I just bought...any suggestions or critics...feel free

Riley's35089rs+

another

Riley's35089rs+

last one

Odyssey

Yeah you should have bought some decent aluminum heads or at least some iron Vortec heads. Those look like stock heads to me!

Riley's35089rs+

14096217...55-86...350..........Crate motor, 285hp/300hp, 64cc chambers,
72' or 90' center intake manifold bolt angles
with these upgrades. Looking to put them on the 327.

these are the 21 degree heads and have the 4 center bolt pattern for the valve covers.

the heads were rebuilt by a professional shop, and have:

5 angle valve grind

Crane valve springs with 110 pound seat pressure

Teflon valve seals

machined keepers

Riley's35089rs+

300.00 with performer RPM intake The D/H heads on the 327 now are shot and no acc. holes pita! If I had 1100.00 I would buy aluminium...but I dont. Im saving that for the 400 I'm building. This is my daily driver for now.

Sitting Bull

Have they been ported, polished or bowl blended in any way?

If not, there is hp and torque just a waiting to be added!!!

I can see that they are not gasket matched at all. While I don't think anyone gets 10 hp from gasket matching a set of street heads, it is still worthwhile to do.

Look over my thread on this business:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...0&pagenumber=1

You are in the perfect position to put in about 20 hrs of work on them. Just disassemble them, do the port/polish/bowl blend and then reassemble them. It will be well worth your while

Riley's35089rs+

Thanks for the reply Sitting Bull. Ive read your thread..good work. To tell you the truth I am a little gunshy about attempting something I know nothing about...did you read about myu tranny nightmare? I may put them to a shop and get some more work done to them before putting them on..as is I'm told I should run about 9.8:1 just about right for a daily driver I think.

RB83L69

I don't know too much about those...

On a 327, 64cc heads give about 9.6-9.7:1 with typical pistons. That is about perfect for the street.

I can see the exhaust rotators are still on them, they're not good for much. They would be better off with the right retainers for the springs.

They will require self-aligning rockers... notice that the push rod holes are big round ones, not 5/16" wide 1/2" long slots. alternatively you could have them machined for screw-in studs and use guide plates; either way, whichever is cheaper in your case, would work fine. I would not use stamped rockers, or aluminum rockers, myself. probably the cheapest way to go would be to use the Comp 1418 cast steel ball-fulcrum roller-tip units. If I recall your cam correctly, that should fit; don't you have something around 218/228 with around .460" lift? If so, their 1.6 ratio would be a nice improvement. if your lift is already over .470", go with 1.5s.

Definitely bowl blend them; there's lots of flow to be had there. That sort of thing is stuff you can do yourself, but costs giga$$$ to pay somebody else to do, because it's pure hourly work, and the quality of the job is directly proportional to the hours spent.

They have some unusual-looking features in the intake ports that could stand to go away. if the exhaust ports are anything like that, there's lots of room for improvement there too.

Just be careful not to damage the valve seat job, sounds like something worth keeping.

Other than that, we could tell you more if we could see the ports after they're disassembled.

Riley's35089rs+

Thanks for the reply..the pistons are flattop forged. I'm not sure of the cam specs. I am planning on swapping in a new cam at the same time..the one in it is great performance wise..lumpy idle with a never ending top end, here is a pic of the exhaust ports.

Riley's35089rs+

looks like a lot of material to remove just to match the gaskets on the intake. I think I need to do alot of research before I attempt to port them myself..guess I lost some confidence with my tranny.

Sitting Bull

Don't worry, it is hard to screw up with cast iron. It is just physically too hard to make a serious mistake. Aluminum requires a little extra care but iron is not going to let you make a huge boo-boo.

Like 99% of people who consider this job, you are allowing yourself to be psyched out. Don't. You CAN do it. Good grief, I did it!!!

Just follow the instructions and be methodical. Do all of the intake gasket matching on each consecutive port. Then open up all the intake runners an equal amount. If in doubt, be conservative. Then do your bowl blending, one bowl at a time. Then the exhaust polishing, one port at a time. See what I mean? The methodical approach will make you better at each process as you repeat it over and over. By the time you've done the last one in each process, you'll want to go back and touch up the first ones you did because you now know just how to handle the cutter and what to remove or enlarge or reshape.

I didn't practise on any spare head or anything like that. Just get the right carbide cutters and go to it. Why not take that free hp and torque? It is literally just waiting to be carved out!!!

Riley's35089rs+

alright Sitting Bull, I'll try this Ill disassemble the heads and post some more pics, and you guys can tell me what to do,,,as I said I have NOOOOOO experience with this but I am very detailed oriented..I will need a porting kit...who has the best for the least $$$.

what have I got to lose besides about $200..

Sitting Bull

All you really need are about 4 carbide cutters, which cost about $40 all told. And an electric die grinder, which you can rent. Look at my thread, I posted pictures of some of the ones you need and described the others. The fine grit polishing on the bowls and exhaust ports is nice but I think the cutter finish is good enough, personally. A stone will smooth it a bit more if you're fussy, and only costs about $1.50.

Also, go here and download their .pdf file showing how to do the work.

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/

But don't bother with all that machinist's die business. A sharpie to trace the inside of the gasket outline on to the head works perfectly.

No problems. You'll be yacking like me once you've done it once

Riley's35089rs+

Thanks for the link..I will be in touch..

iroc22

Those heads look like they have some good power characteristics..... Have any pics of the combustion chambers?

Riley's35089rs+

iroc22...I will disassemble them as soon as I get a chance...then I will post some pics of the chambers. I just got them Friday. I'm going to need all the help I can get on this porting project. I am going to have them machined for screw in studs and guide plates. I am going to do the porting myself, with the help of you guys. I first have to round up all the necessary items. Ill be getting back to you fellas, thanks for all the insight.

Riley's35089rs+

here is one assembled.....

Riley's35089rs+

what size valves..how do I measure?

Sitting Bull

You don't need to measure. They should be 1.94 and 1.50.

Riley's35089rs+

thats what I was thinking.....thanks, just wanted o be sure.