timing my car
timing my car
I have read alot about people having like 32 degrees total timing. How are coming up with those numbers, and what should mine beat with my setup. We did use a timing light but where are you getting this other number. thanks.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
What's your compression?
A motor typically has some static advance, which is what you change by twiddling the distributor; then as the RPMs increase, the advance increases (by way of springs and weights in older distributors, or by a set of values programmed into the computer in those) to some value which is reached at some RPM. This is what people usually call total timing. Then there's vacuum advance on top of all that, which further advances the timing at high-RPM, high-vacuum cinditions, i.e. cruising, for gas mileage and cooler running with lean mixtures.
Most small block motors want about 10° or so static, then centrifugal starting at 1000 to 1200 RPM that gradually adds about 24-28 more ° by about 2500 RPM, and about 10° of vacuum advance.
If you have flat-top pistons with those 64cc double-hump heads (about 10.3:1 compression), you might want a little less than that curve, but the general idea will be the same.
You look at the curve with a timing light (the dial-back kind makes it easier) and a tach.
A motor typically has some static advance, which is what you change by twiddling the distributor; then as the RPMs increase, the advance increases (by way of springs and weights in older distributors, or by a set of values programmed into the computer in those) to some value which is reached at some RPM. This is what people usually call total timing. Then there's vacuum advance on top of all that, which further advances the timing at high-RPM, high-vacuum cinditions, i.e. cruising, for gas mileage and cooler running with lean mixtures.
Most small block motors want about 10° or so static, then centrifugal starting at 1000 to 1200 RPM that gradually adds about 24-28 more ° by about 2500 RPM, and about 10° of vacuum advance.
If you have flat-top pistons with those 64cc double-hump heads (about 10.3:1 compression), you might want a little less than that curve, but the general idea will be the same.
You look at the curve with a timing light (the dial-back kind makes it easier) and a tach.
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