So if crank gear dot is at 12oclock and cam at 12oclock
So if crank gear dot is at 12oclock and cam at 12oclock
.. then it'll be firing at number #1 piston? I have the old cam in my car with the heads off and timing cover off. I'm putting in a new cam and new timing gears/chain etc.. What steps should I follow from here?
Thanks Guys
Thanks Guys
I am so confused right now. I thought that if the cam was at 6oclock and the crank at 12, then it would be firing #6 cylinder? I just want to install this cam and gears right. I have the heads off, and timing cover off, but the old cam and gears are still in the block.
Originally posted by LarsZ28
I am so confused right now. I thought that if the cam was at 6oclock and the crank at 12, then it would be firing #6 cylinder? I just want to install this cam and gears right. I have the heads off, and timing cover off, but the old cam and gears are still in the block.
I am so confused right now. I thought that if the cam was at 6oclock and the crank at 12, then it would be firing #6 cylinder? I just want to install this cam and gears right. I have the heads off, and timing cover off, but the old cam and gears are still in the block.
Thanks Evil
So then once the motor is back together with the distributor NOT in yet, I just rotate the motor clockwise one crank revolution, and then put the dizzy in with the rotor facing #1 plug lead?
So then once the motor is back together with the distributor NOT in yet, I just rotate the motor clockwise one crank revolution, and then put the dizzy in with the rotor facing #1 plug lead? #1 cylinder should be at Top Dead Center (TDC) with the marks aligned. To double check, look at the valves, they should both be closed, (cam on base circle). You want the rotor pointing at the #1 post with the piston at TDC during compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke (exhaust valve will be open at TDC too. Probably way too much info, but the crank gear turns twice for the cam's one turn. Intake stroke and compression stroke happen on the first 180* of cam gear revolution (one crank revolution), and combustion/exhaust are on the second 180* revolution (second full crank revolution) If you have the heads off, just take a look at the cam lobes as you turn the crank, and try to picture it. The plug should fire at TDC after compression happens( actually a little earlier) causing the combustion stroke. So with that said, the valves should both be closed
Once you look at it, it's hard to put together wrong.
Once you look at it, it's hard to put together wrong. Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,507
Likes: 0
From: Elizabeth, Colorado
Car: '94 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
Instructions & books will do that to people. Install the cam with the dots touching each other is correct, but in order to install the distributor on #1 the cam dot needs to be straight up, and hopefully the crank with follow
You can verify this with the #1 lifters being down...
Ron
You can verify this with the #1 lifters being down...Ron
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
#i TDC is at both locations. However, only one of them is #1 firing, the other is both #6 firing and the end of #1 exhaust stroke and beginning of its intake stroke.
Do not move the wires around on the cap, it just confuses the issue once you have it all assembled and are trying to start it. Put the thing back together so that the wires come out in their factory locations, and they will all fit much better, especially if they're already cut to length. Plus, if you assemble the motor correctly, it will already be timed within 2 or 3 degrees of where you want it, and will start up instantly the first time you hit the key, just like it's supposed to (and does in the vehicle assembly plant). You don't honestly think the factory goes through the same hassle you're going through with moving wires around and all that crap,, do you?
Like evil says, use the #6 firing position to get the cam lined up to the crank, then rotate the motor one turn (both dots at 12 o'clock) to put it at #1 firing, and drop in the dist. There's a post I write on a regular basis about where to put the oil pump, and how to install and time the dist so that the motor will fire right up, etc., based on how the factory does it. The last time I wrote it was about a week ago. Do a search on my userID and "rotor" over the last 10 days or so, you should be able to find it.
Do not move the wires around on the cap, it just confuses the issue once you have it all assembled and are trying to start it. Put the thing back together so that the wires come out in their factory locations, and they will all fit much better, especially if they're already cut to length. Plus, if you assemble the motor correctly, it will already be timed within 2 or 3 degrees of where you want it, and will start up instantly the first time you hit the key, just like it's supposed to (and does in the vehicle assembly plant). You don't honestly think the factory goes through the same hassle you're going through with moving wires around and all that crap,, do you?
Like evil says, use the #6 firing position to get the cam lined up to the crank, then rotate the motor one turn (both dots at 12 o'clock) to put it at #1 firing, and drop in the dist. There's a post I write on a regular basis about where to put the oil pump, and how to install and time the dist so that the motor will fire right up, etc., based on how the factory does it. The last time I wrote it was about a week ago. Do a search on my userID and "rotor" over the last 10 days or so, you should be able to find it.
Originally posted by RB83L69
... that requires a brain, which I don't have one of.
... that requires a brain, which I don't have one of.

As for your sense of humor, we'll see. I know I left mine in a moving van somewhere along the highway.
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