H E L P!!! Stuck in Chicago due to key!
H E L P!!! Stuck in Chicago due to key!
Okay, so Idiot that I am, I lost my only set of Camaro Keys AGAIN! I have been meaning to do this since about a year ago when I lost my only set and had to go to the dealer to get a new VATS key ($36!). The REAL kicker is that the first thing I had to do was punch out the oh-so-expensive resistor with a screwdriver so that I could use it. This is because of a remote start system I installed, I have bypassed the ususal vats using a resistor, and if I leave the stock resistor in the key, it changes the resistance and won't start.
Anyway- so today, they are out of stock of the real vats key, and anyway, I'd rather get a key with the same profile without the expensive resistor option since its going to waste anyway. I know that the key cut is correct because I went through this once before, and they cut it using the fax (that I saved) with the key info on it from GM. Trouble is, the alternative (cheaper) profile doesn't work for some strange reason.
I went to ACE hardware, and the guy gave me all the gm key's to try. The only one that slid fully into the cylinder was the 'A' Key. The one the dealer cut was an 'E' key and didn't fit in. Later, I went to the dealer again and this time, ("what was that other guy doing? This needs a 'C' key!") they cut the same profile into a 'C' key. One 40 minute drive back to my car later, much to my dismay, the C key doesn't slide in either?!? So, lots of wasted time and money, none of my keys even fit into the cylinder (though the door key they made works) except the Ace Hardware 'A' key (which refuses to turn).
Finally, I'm starting a new job in Champaign tomorrow (I'm in Chicago now). I need to get this car WORKING ASAP!!!! I'm thinking of using the A cut and forcing it with a vise grip! Anyone have any ideas!?!??! What can I do here? Anyone know a key profile that will work as a substitute for a vats key? How can I hotwire my car!! anything! please help!
-Kevin
Anyway- so today, they are out of stock of the real vats key, and anyway, I'd rather get a key with the same profile without the expensive resistor option since its going to waste anyway. I know that the key cut is correct because I went through this once before, and they cut it using the fax (that I saved) with the key info on it from GM. Trouble is, the alternative (cheaper) profile doesn't work for some strange reason.
I went to ACE hardware, and the guy gave me all the gm key's to try. The only one that slid fully into the cylinder was the 'A' Key. The one the dealer cut was an 'E' key and didn't fit in. Later, I went to the dealer again and this time, ("what was that other guy doing? This needs a 'C' key!") they cut the same profile into a 'C' key. One 40 minute drive back to my car later, much to my dismay, the C key doesn't slide in either?!? So, lots of wasted time and money, none of my keys even fit into the cylinder (though the door key they made works) except the Ace Hardware 'A' key (which refuses to turn).
Finally, I'm starting a new job in Champaign tomorrow (I'm in Chicago now). I need to get this car WORKING ASAP!!!! I'm thinking of using the A cut and forcing it with a vise grip! Anyone have any ideas!?!??! What can I do here? Anyone know a key profile that will work as a substitute for a vats key? How can I hotwire my car!! anything! please help!
-Kevin
Kevin,
1. Go to your Ace place and get one or two of their "A" key blanks (uncut) that happen to fit your cylinder slide pattern;
2. Take the blanks to the dealer and have them cut your code onto the Ace blank;
3. Take the cut key back to your car and try it. If it works, have another copy made on your second blank and put it in a safe place;
4. Drive down 57 to Champaign.
Incidentally, your new job - stretcher-bearer for the Bears? You could have a lucrative position...
1. Go to your Ace place and get one or two of their "A" key blanks (uncut) that happen to fit your cylinder slide pattern;
2. Take the blanks to the dealer and have them cut your code onto the Ace blank;
3. Take the cut key back to your car and try it. If it works, have another copy made on your second blank and put it in a safe place;
4. Drive down 57 to Champaign.
Incidentally, your new job - stretcher-bearer for the Bears? You could have a lucrative position...
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 659
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From: Chesapeake, VA
Car: '86 TransAm WS6
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Custom TH700R4
I don't know how it is with the VATS, but can't you just pull the lock cylinder?
When I lost the keys to my SafariWagon, I went over to the parts store, bought a new Ignition lock with new keys, rented a steering wheel puller and a lock plate remover, and spent 20 minutes popping the old cylinder out and stuck the new one in.
Lock Cylinder was $10, and the tools were $30 deposit.
It might be a little more difficult if you have airbags.
When I lost the keys to my SafariWagon, I went over to the parts store, bought a new Ignition lock with new keys, rented a steering wheel puller and a lock plate remover, and spent 20 minutes popping the old cylinder out and stuck the new one in.
Lock Cylinder was $10, and the tools were $30 deposit.
It might be a little more difficult if you have airbags.
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