Ok, I did somthing pretty dumb, so everyone learn from my mistakes, and not only that tell me how much damage I've done. Lesson #1, adjust valve lash BEFORE INSTALLING HEADERS!! Spark plugs are such a bitch to take out with those things. Anyway back to my mistake. With spark plugs and headers installed, but no rockers (all valves closed) I decided to installing bolts for the dampener. While torquing the center bolt I rotated the crank and pressurized the chambers. Much to my dismay I hear the air seeping out from the pressurization. Does this mean I just blew the head gaskets, or is the air most likely leaking out of somwhere else? Also, whats the easiest way to get my damn plugs out to set the lash? If I can get at them with a wrench can I re-install them with it and guess at the torque rather than take the headers off so I can use my torque wrench? Thanks in advance for any tips.

 

no no no, you don't blow the head gaskets. the most you can generate turning the crank by hand is about 30psi - a FAR, FAR cry from the pressures the head gasket/head will see when the engine's actually running. the air pressure sound as the air equalizes (blows past the rings, etc.) is totally normal.

now as for the plugs, most people don't torque their plugs anyways, just use a wrench or plug socket or whatever and gauge how tight they are in now, then pull them and do your business, and then tighten them back up approximately as tight as they were before.

why do you want to pull the plugs to adjust lash anyways? there is some procedure probably posted somewhere in the archives, but basically you just bring hte motor to TDC #1 and then follow the procedure. i suppose the motor would be easier to turn over with the plugs out, but if your setup is such a pain to pull plugs on (it shoudln't be that bad?) then just turn hte motor over slowly and leave the plugs in. no big deal.

 

Well, taking out a plug or 2 will make cranking the motor by hand a little easier right?


Though not necessary.

 

Thank you very much, that answers my problem. See I thought I was doing harm by turning the crank with the plugs in. Now that I know its fine I'll just take out the 1st one so I can get TDC and set the lash. No probs now! Thanks!!

 

You do not need to remove the plugs to adjust the valve lash.
You do not need to remove the headers.
You do not need to use feeler guages on the valves either
(on a hyd cammed motor) So the headers are not in the way.
You do not need to follow a complicated pain in the ***
crank rotating routine to adjust the valves correctly. *see below.*

You need to only adjust the valves for "0 lash" when the valve is on seat (closed) and the lifter is on the base circle.
You only need to tighten up the rocker nut till the push rod JUST won't easily spin in your fingers while tightening the rocker.
thats all , then tighten the rocker an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
This will establish the proper (hyd lifter preload)

The easy way to position the valves for adjustment is to use the starter to bump the motor over while observing the valve movement.

Start with #1 cylinder and watch the intake valve while you or a buddy bumps over the motor with the starter a little at a time.

When the intake valve just closes (on seat) adjust that cylinder's exhaust valve. When the exhaust valve just starts to open, (just off seat), adjust that cylinder's intake valve.
repeat for the rest of the cylinders.

what could be easier....