Engine Mounts
Engine Mounts
Rebuilding the motor and I figured I might as well chang over my engine mounts to polyurethane cause my stocks ones are going bad.
The question is the mounts are held in by 3 bolts with a nut on the back of each bolt. However the nut is inside the front crossmember. There is an opening that I could get to them from above the lower control arm but the spring are there.
So is there any trick to getting a wrench on these bolts without having to remove my front springs?
The question is the mounts are held in by 3 bolts with a nut on the back of each bolt. However the nut is inside the front crossmember. There is an opening that I could get to them from above the lower control arm but the spring are there.
So is there any trick to getting a wrench on these bolts without having to remove my front springs?
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 701
Likes: 2
From: Clinton, IA usa
Car: 1984 Firebird
Engine: 350 Terminator EFI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10
you don't need to go in through the hole that is blocked by the spring albiet it would pprolly be easier.
mine had a hole in the bottom of the crossmember and between a open/box end wrench, and one of the open end wrenches with a flex joint socket on it i managed to get them, make sure you've got a flexible magnet to retrieve the nuts from inside the crossmember cause your bound to drop at least one.
its cold and dark right now or i could get a pic from under mine,
take a look at it again, use some imagination, where theres a will theres a way
mine had a hole in the bottom of the crossmember and between a open/box end wrench, and one of the open end wrenches with a flex joint socket on it i managed to get them, make sure you've got a flexible magnet to retrieve the nuts from inside the crossmember cause your bound to drop at least one.
its cold and dark right now or i could get a pic from under mine,
take a look at it again, use some imagination, where theres a will theres a way
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 952
Likes: 0
From: La Porte, IN
Car: 1987 Monte Carlo SS
Engine: L98
Transmission: 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 7.625 10 bolt/3.73s
I got all mine through the control arm pivot gap. I taped a 5/8 wrench to another wrench to allow a bit of play. Took me about 3 hours the first time and 45 minutes the second.(Damn tabs)
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 917
Likes: 1
From: Long Island NY
Car: Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I've changed mounts twice and removed the springs and the control arms, plus the engine was out both times. I only removed the control arms to install bushings and regrease them. It was easy once the front suspension was removed.
Well after about two hours of trying with various wrenches and sockets I managed to remove 2 of the 3 bolts, but alas the last one is either to far or at an angle where I can't get the wrench on it.
So I give up, how do I go about removing my front springs? Cause even if I could get the last bolt of I don't see any way I would be able to reattach it.
So I give up, how do I go about removing my front springs? Cause even if I could get the last bolt of I don't see any way I would be able to reattach it.
Trending Topics
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 917
Likes: 1
From: Long Island NY
Car: Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
To remove the springs you need an internal spring compressor. You can rent one at autozone for free with a $100 deposit. You'll need about three inches of spacers (i got mine at sears hardware) to go under the bottom "claw", because the bolt, is too long. You'll also need a ball joint sperator, or you could unbolt the control arms from the crossmember but you might have a hard time getting the spring out that way.
Re: Engine Mounts
Originally posted by Acidtalons
So is there any trick to getting a wrench on these bolts without having to remove my front springs?
So is there any trick to getting a wrench on these bolts without having to remove my front springs?
I did mine through the opening by the A arm, with the engine installed. I'm a glutton for punishment.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 2
From: winthrop harbor, il & plymouth, il
Car: 1986 camaro
Engine: 383 sbc
Transmission: th-400
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 10 bolt/Detroit TrueTrac 4.
i am going to be switching to some solid mounts andi am having trouble getting the old ones off. can i just grind off the bolts? i wont be using them anymore so...
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,854
Likes: 0
From: boonton, NJ
Car: 84 camaro Z28
Engine: 434sbc
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: moser 9" with 411 posi
i also removed the springs to get to those nuts. even with the springs out it was still a pain in the ***. just take your time and you'll do fine
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 888
Likes: 0
From: Oswego, IL
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350ci SBC
Transmission: 700R4
First jack up the car on the side which you want to take off first, support with jackstands. Use a 2 foot 3/8 extension with a swivel and a 15mm socket at the end. With the jack and a block of wood support the engine across the oil pan checking for possible damage or collaspe. With the engine supported take off the through bolt. Take the tire off the side you are replacing and go through the spring into the K-member and if you pick the right angle you can 100% get the socket on the nut. Put a towel over the rotor to keep to clean. Then put the rachet on the extension and hold it while you loosen it from the top. I did it this way with the engine in and it took me only 20mins a side. To reinstall the bolts and washers after the new mounts are in use wheel bearing grease to hold the washer on the nut and the nut in the socket as you guide it back into the K-member.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post





