ok, i know someone selling a used 383 assy. with forged pistons and rods but a cast crank, i was going to buy a forged 383 crank from summit and just have it all re balanced but my question is, would boring my block 060 over be too much? and will i have to get the block clearanced for the summit 383 crank?

 

also, roughly what would it cost for the balancing, clearancing, and boring .060 over? thanks

 

I'm not sure if I would go .060 over on a 383. The stroker crank adds extra stress to those cylinder walls. It may be possible though.

As for clearancing, yes you will need to do block & oil pan clearancing for that 383 crank. More than likely your rods will hit your cam too, so you'll need to clearance the rods also. I have a Melling HV oil pump and I even had to grind a little off that!!

As for the price of balancing, I got my motor balanced and a new flexplate & balancer for $150 bucks. So my guess is 100 bux for balancing? I'm not sure..

Good luck!

 

Around here a block prep runs abt $150. That includes vating, magnafluxing, a good visual inspection, boring, honing, cleaning out all the oil passages, and new cam bearings installed.

Bought a die grinder and did the block clearance work myself. Only took me 1 afternoon.

In my case, I had the shop do a vat, magnaflux and boring. Brought it home. Did the clearance work and sent it back for a second cleaning and new cam bearings. Worked out pretty well.

Balancing costs $150-$200. If heavy metal is needed to balance the crank, it gets more expensive.

Don't balance anything till you get the eng together enough that you can check cam-rod clearance. I bought my stroker kit pre-balanced but was unable to use the stock type rods with my cam.
Threw that money right down the drain!

 

im thinking that instead of buying that 383 stuff im just going to stick with the 350, my original plan, it seems like too many troubles and worries to go with the 383. i heard they make cranks and rods for 383s that dont need any extra clearance, is this true or just another rumor? besides that, would a 383 make that much more power than a 350? heres what ill have in it

355 or 383 forged bottom end
lt4 cam (not 100% but im pretty sure on that)
superram intake w/52mm TB
AFR 190 heads
underdrive pulley setup
2k stall converter
shorty headers
cold air intake
stock rear and trans for now

any ideas on the rwhp for a similar 355 and 383 setup? just curious to know how much power the extra trouble will be worth. thanks

 

About those 383 cranks that you don't have to clearance, thats just a rumor.

A 355 build up would be alot easier, and less expensive (no block clearancing or any of that crap!)

A 383 vs. 355 given equal parts, of course the 383 will come out ahead. I can't really say how much horsepower, it should easily have a few more horse but definitely more torque. The longer the stroke = the more leverage your engine has.

It's sort of like trying to break loose a rusty bolt with a short wrench vs. a longer one.

Good luck

 

yeah, i think im going to go 355 for price reasons mainly, and how much of an effect will 3 tenths of an inch have ya know, maybe later if im looking for more kick, ill swap out the 355 setup for a 383, who knows, right now im just looking for something quick that will get me to school and back next year. thanks for the info

 

hey now, don't be saying if u need a kick you'll swap out the 355, lol. I have a bored out 350 to 355 and it the best thing next to a 406 or 383 stroker. Not to mention she unleashes over 400 horse, you'll be much happy minus much trouble with a 350.

 

what kind of setup do you have for over 400 horses out of a 350? blown? sprayed? because im looking for numbers close to there and id like to know of some things that might help get me there, so far i was just gonna go with an LT4 cam, forged bottom end, AFR 190 heads, superram intake, headers, cold air, and bigger injectors, like 24 lb maybe. any input would help, thanks

 

I got a second, I eliminated most things that could run electrically and not by the motor. Ie, the fuel pump, i have 2 holley regulators and I use the fuel pump inside the gas tank (*** that would sucks if it goes.) I took off the fan n hooked up a sensored electric fan, the ac belt is off. Holley aluminum street dominator intake, 202 heads (cast iron, the heads are a major default in horsepower in my engine). 700 cfm holley 4 barrel, I had it checked before I swapped heads so I might be a lil under 400 hp now, but it still runs great. I had it spun balanced along with the bore and forged pistons, smaller cam for my stock gears. headers, flowmaster exhaust (duel) Theres alot of other crap but I have to go to work and sorry for the head specs and cam specs being generic, I could give the lift and ext/int and combustion chambers but time is not on my side =[ sorry, always fun talking about my car, haha. tis the only thing I have good to show for!

 

alright thanks, i should be getting somewhere near there then with a little bigger cam and the AFR 190 heads, plus i already have all unnecessary belt driven accessories disconnected, im probably going to throw a little bigger gear in too so i have high hopes around the 400 mark. take care

Russ