dread

I have a 1986 Firebird (originally a 2.8l with a 3.1l swapped into it). car has been running perfectly fine for the past 5-6 months, today as I was driving down the road doing approximately 40mph the car just suddenly shut off, and I lost all power steering, brakes, etc. (car just stalled, it is an auto however).

What I have done so far is installed a new distributor, changed the ignition coil with a KNOWN working one, verified all plugs and wires were working.

Checked for spark, before the new distributor, it would barely spark when it first cranked, then it would quit, same result with new distributor.

I have also checked all fuses, and all are ok. The car is getting fuel, I tested the injector pulse, and they are working fine (aside from the obvious smell of gasoline when trying to start).

The car does not crank weirdly (as if timing were off) just does a standard crank, but does not fire.

I was thinking along the lines of the computer, but wasn't sure if you folks could reccomend something else that could be causing this problem. (not sure if this is related, but for the past few days, my headlights have been flickering and my volts have been right above the caution line... im in a 10F climate right now, so i attributed that to needing a new battery, unless it is some how related to this problem)

THe ignition coil is outputting the 12v, so the power IS going to to the distributor (and being its a brand new distrib, i dont forsee the distrib being the complication)

Any help would be appreciated, and I will thank you folks in advance.

Rustydawg

Sure sounds like you've got an electrical problem to me. Your spark should be a very healthy blue 'snap', even at cranking speeds.

It is very likely related to the low voltage indicated on your car's voltmeter and to the flickering headlights.

I suggest that you check the fusible links, and make sure there is lots of current available at the pink lead feeding the ignition coil. It may show 12V when the key is on, but what voltage is available there when you crank the engine? If you see this voltage drop way down when the engine is cranking over then it points to a problem delivering enough current to the distributor.

Alternatively, you could try powering up a headlight or a similar heavy load off the pink lead, but if you're not comfortable with that, just check the fusible links and starter (+) terminal where the battery (+) terminal and the various distribution feeds meet.

dread

TTT

dread

Update:

I have replaced (good thing I know someone at a parts store that will return electrical equipment that was installed for a few uses).

Ignition module, ignition coil, distributor, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, etc.

I did a circuit test on EVERY ignition wire going into the ECU, all make a complete circuit (rules out splices in wires, etc) and ground out properly as well..

I have done the "TAP" test with the ecu (see: hitting it), and to still no avail.

what to do next?

Rustydawg

What's the situation right now then, you get a weak spark when you first start cranking then it fades to no spark at all?

dread

There is no spark what so ever, and it does have a new computer in it now.......

Rustydawg

I am assuming that you have verified that the distributor actually spins when you're cranking the engine and it isn't a mechanical drive problem with the camshaft/oil pump drive.

Try a direct feed from the battery's (+) terminal to where the pink lead connects to the distributor. Be careful here, work from the distributor back towards the battery so you don't have a hot & unfused wire draped across the engine bay.

Then try cranking it over and see if you get a spark. It is all pointing to 12V DC power at the distributor as I see it.

dread

I just checked distributor before you posted that. It is NOT spinning (stupid me) so it is either going to be the cam or the timing chain that broke Ill have to check in the morning

TomP

Wow, good diagnosis, rustydawg! I think that's the last thing I would've mentioned.