any one have an opinion on this crank i am thinking of using one in a 383 tpi motor with a set of afr 190's and a set of simeased runners and base. i would like to eventually put a blower on it but not for a while (2 or more years). my other choice would be eagle but i dont know any thing about them i am looking for a crank for under or about 600. i can get a new scat 9000 with 3.75 stroke for 240

 

if you are going blower sooner or later its better to go on and spend the extra cash now for the eagle forged crank... i hear really good things about them

 

It's a cheap cast crank, better than stock, but not really high-performance or anything.

But if you're going to use it under TPI, that will protect it from ever seeing any significant stress. I wouldn't suggest using it with a blower though, since the blower can largely overcome TPI's built-in protection against making power.

 

i still cannot figue out how scat gets zero'd out but eagle dosen't????

eagle works or did work like scat.... the cranks come from overseas and they to the final machining thy way they want.......

from what i hear eagle has went out of business and all you can buy is what they have left on the shelves..... i don't know if this is true but it is what i heard from a racing buddy of mine........

personally, you can get that crank from www.flatlanderracing.com for 189....... and to me the block will go before the crank does... that is if it's balanced correctly by a good machine shop.....

hope it works out for ya....

 

I was thinking about using a Scat cast steel crank in my 350
Vortec/Hot cam setup. David Vizard seems to swear by these cranks but I don't know anyone with first hand experince other
than what I've read.

 

I have to agree David Vizard seems to love Scat cranks. If stock cranks are good for 500hp the Scat cranks have to be good to atleast that level.

 

I have a Scat 9000 3.75" one piece rear seal crank in my engine. I built it about 18 months ago and have 11,000 pretty hard miles on it. Probably 50 hard 1/4 mile passes and at least that many 1/8 mile passes. I turn about 6400 between shifts.
Here's a link with some info on it. I'm using GM electronics and a Holley Stealth ram intake

http://members.sigecom.net/smaster/383parts.htm

Here's why I responed to your post. I hold my breath everytime I stomp on it! I've read here and other places it's plenty stong enough, and I've read it's not, it's junk, don't trust it, etc.

To do it over and spend the money I did on balancing the assembly, good pistons, etc., I would have bought better rods and a better crank to start with. I wasn't but about $500 away from having a well know, plenty strong enough crank and rods. Well, I live and learn and so far it hasn't been the hard way. Since I bought the crank I added a far better intake system than I had intended to. Used way better heads than my original plan. Changed cams three times because buring my own PROM chips allowed me to tune. In other words, my "rebuild and make it a 383" just took off.

Point is: Now I wish I'd used better bottom end parts, to the point I just bought a beater 1980 Malibu so I could take this project apart and build it right before I destroy it.

Hope this helps!

 

I'm thinking about installing a Scat 900 crank along with there I beam rods in my 350project.
they are very well priced and if they are better than a stock cast crank. it should be more than worthy to be just fine in my 4 bolt, 1 piece rear main seal 350. (around 350hp)

 

I'm running a cat crank in my 383, don't turn it very hard though. Have hit the rev limiter several times too 6600. Runs 7.000 @ 103 in the 1/8. Another guy over here has a 393 in a 94 stang, with the scat 9000. Shifts at 7000, and once in a while it hits it with 150hp shot. He's on the third season with that engine. I've seen him run 6.70s with the juice. Another fellow has a s10 with 383,forged crank ect. shifts at 7800 rpm, runs 6.60s. how many GM cranks you seen, bad? Are they all bad? He l NO. I worried about mine too the first time down the track, but no more than I would have even if it had a callies in it. OH bet they've had some that wasn't so good too. Just put some GOOD rods in it, have balanced, and HAVE A BALL!!

 

My SCAT 9000 crank is living well in my Vortec/Hot Cammed 350.
I have put 7,500 miles on it and hammer the crap out of it everyday. Balancing was not a problem either, I used PM rods and Speed Pro forged flat tops #2256. I will buy another one for future projects, can't beat the price and so far reliable.

 

Thanks to NAFTA us poor folks can now afford to hot rod.

 

Sorry to bring this thread back but:

Anyone know of a Scat 9000 taking a 100 shot of N20, and still living to like 20,000+ miles?

Also. ChevyTech84:
Why was balancing your setup different from balancing any other setup? If you buy a crank that's internally balanced, rods and pistons that are also I/B will you entire setup be balanced? Sorry I'm new to building shortblocks.

-Rippin

 

Anyone?

 

it should a stock crank is ok with a 100 shot

 

If I were you I'd take your crank rods, pistons and rings and bearing and all that to a machine shop with the block and get it balanced and blueprinted, doesn't cost that much, definitely worth it though.

Nick