I just bought the No.1 car on my gotta have or will die list and it isnt a fake SS Problem is, it has not been started since 1972 !!! The owner said he's pretty sure it was 1972 when last started. I understand all the prep list for an engine that hasent been started in awhile, but this is nuts. I plan on driving it to the shop a little under 100 miles but how should I prep the engine before I start it??????? I cant trailer it now so I'm kinda screwed.


Thanks!

 

Cant help you with the engine prep, but congrats on getting the No. 1 on the list. Im sure we've all got a list.

 

don't hold me to it but, here go's:

drain and replace oil and filter
drain and replace gas in carb and tank (if any)
pull spark plugs and spray some WD-40 into all cyls.
pull dist and prime oil system just like you would a new motor
with plugs out try to turn motor over by hand a couple of revolutions after above steps.
re-install dist.
drain and replace oil in tranny

charge battery and give it a try.

thats what I can think of, I'm sure I probably missed something but I think others will chime in to help.

 

Well, first of all, drain all the fluids out of the car (oil, gas, antifreeze, trans fluid, etc). Also, check the gas that's in it. If no stabilizer was ever added to it, it could very possibly look like varnish, which would mean you'd have to drop the tank and either replace it or clean it out. Also, I would highly reccomend that after you put new oil in it, pull the distribitor out, and get an oil pump primer (autozone rents them), to prelube the engine with oil prior to starting. After 30 years of sitting, you can be sure the engine is bone dry of oil. The procedures are about the same as if you had just put a new engine in the car. I would also recommend changing the oil after the engine has run for a little while. And before you start it, Id check the belts and hoses, you don't want a dry rotted belt or hose popping off :P

 

I would also do as stated before.I would also consider yourself lucky if it will still turn over at all.

 

awesome find man, congrats. I've always wanted a 66' chevelle SS.... it's one of my dream cars as well.

These guys seem to have all the bases covered for starting it, so good luck and have fun with it!

ps, post lots of pics. Just make sure to put your thirdgen in the background so it looks like they are thirdgen specific pictures.

Eric

 

Thanks for the reply's. I'm going to drive up again tomorrow and make a check list of everything that looks bad and probably nab the carb for a quicky rebuild and have the radiator rotted out and pressure tested. All these things have to be done anyway. The one thing I am worried about is will it turn over. I dident even want to try it until its primed. I'm thinking abiout using some of that turbine oil I got a while back and squirting that down the cyls. I'm also not sure about the fuel pump either Might just replace it, too bad though its one that could be rebuilt to keep it original. I'm thinking about pouring some lacquer thinner into the tank just to break up any crud. I'm not sure the gear oil need to be replaced but I'll check it, be real nice it it was an M22 but it's probably an M20.
Any more suggestion are welcome.

Thanks!

 

I would be very surprised if the engine isn't rusted solid.

You might actually do more damage firing it up. You might ruin the crank & rods, if the bearings are corroded.
I would tow it, and tear it down, if indeed it hasn't been started in 30 years - in Colorado weather no less!!!


Ron

 

Think it might still have the old rock crusher? Could be...

ALL the fluids will need to be replaced. Forget about driving it. You'll seize the wheel bearings and grind the spindles and axles off to oblivion if you move it too far.

Forget about the brakes working, holding hydraulic pressure, or stopping the vehicle since the drums will probably split or shatter on the first application (if the wheel cylinders and master cylinder hold any pressure at all. Remember that a '66 likely has the single master cylinder, so if you lose a line or cylinder, you lose ALL the brakes.

You'll do far more damage by driving it than you might anticipate. Have you considered a dolly and tow truck? OR a rental car hauler?

RT is more likely right. I'm guessing it isn't going to make the first 100 miles without eating itself unless the shells and jugs come out first. Don't ruin it now - it took you a long time to find it.

When you get that far, if you need a new trans, I might have a spare Chevy/Warner Gear Division T-10 (yes, original close-ratio) that I could spare.

 

Thanks for the extra input guys. Vader I might take you up on that offer pending this transmissions ID.
This is the sucks sucks sucks part. The only truck I have now is my 76, just put a killer 402 and 4.56's in it. Long high RPM haul on a fresh engine worries me. I could bum my brothers ranger but I doubt the little 4 banger could make it up Green Horn pass by its self let alone a load. I guess we will figure it out.

So Dont bother driving it.
Tear down the engine and refresh. Shame too, only 26,000 miles.
Change every thing!
I guess either way I'll come out on top here, interior is near perfect body has no rust just one scratch/dent and all for $1000. Gotta love old people.

 

Listen to Vader and Ron. Don't drive that thing or even attempt to start it. I couldn't imagine what the engine, radiator, trans, brakes, or rear end will be like after sitting 30 years.. a simple fluid change probably isn't going to do it.

 

my 68ss was like that. engine was in good shape but the fule system all needed replaced. i tried to have the tank dipped but it was too rusted, replaced fuel lines, pump and carb. naturally any fluids should be replaced ,seals are also questionable, my pinion seal leaks pretty bad. it's going to carlisle in april with a for sale sign on it.

 

I gotta agree with not trying to drive it. The brake hydraulics are probably rusted solid, who knows what kind of electrical gremlins are waiting for you, the fuel has all long evaporated and left a coating of gunk, etc. etc. etc.

I would worry a whole lot less about using a new engine to tow a car for 100 miles, than I would about thinking a car that hasn't run in 30 years is just going to start up and hit the freeway. Just go rent a car trailer and use your truck. Drive slow if you think it necessary.

Get your risk priorities straight. Even if you do toast your truck's motor, you can easily replace that; if you toast the car, ...... I'll let you figure that out.

When you get the car back home, then start worrying about how to get it to run. Personally, I'd save "running" for last; I'd start with the running gear, the brakes and steering and such, then the fuel system, and I would not even touch the motor until everything else has been set right.

 

SSC,

When I mentioned renting a car hauler, I was suggesting renting a COMPLETE car hauler, chassis-cab and all. U-Haul has car haulers in some locations, or you can rent a car trailer and truck to pull it with - wreck their stuff, not yours. Not that you can't find them from other places, like Ryder or Penske.

BTW - that T-10 is from a '64 Vette, new second gear, synchros, detents, bearings, seals, gaskets, countershaft, speedo gears, etc. Just let me know. I've been waiting to "place" it with someone who's restoring and original rather than just vend it out. They're getting harder to find with GM numbers on them.

 

Oh man....an original 66 SS with 26K miles for $1000?!?! That's like one of those "he parked his brand new corvette in the barn before he went off to war and never came home" stories that we all dream about. Tell ya what. If its gonna be such a hassle for ya to tow it home, I'll give ya $5Gs for the car right now, sight unseen...ya know, just to get it off your hands and help ya out
And I'll push the da*n thing all the way back to NY! A car like that is worth restoring right...don't rush it, and don't try to take shortcuts. If you do it right, you're sitting on a nice little goldmine. Good luck with it.

 

I had to tow my 1987 Black IROC from philly to my house it was about 75 miles. OK...we rented a dolly for $70 and used our 97 GMC Jimmy with a 4.3 Vortec and a an auto trans...well the motor handled the car fine, but the trans...that died b/c we put it in over drive and that is a no-no(go read your owners manual)...also i don't think Jimmys were ment to pull 3500 lbs. If your truck is an auto...go get a $30 trans cooler, install and you will be good to go. Just make sure you leave it out of overdrive.

 

One more thing?? where do you get high RPM driving from? your engine probably has MORE then enough power to pull that car so it is not like you will be pulling a 1986 S15 with a 1985 Nissan 720 pickup(yeah, i did it, that S15 had a blown motor but i only had to go a mile and my 720 is 2.4L 4 banger 5spd. Just put a chain around each of the truck and went.....let me tell you this....there are ALOT of steep long hills(foothills of the Appalation Mountains) and yeah i had to run 1st gear but it was NO problem for th truck, probably could have gotten 2nd but then i was worried my friend would not be able to stop the S15 b/c then engine was not running so he had no power brakes.

 

4.56 = high rpms

 

Of course, it's probably more than obvious, but depending on how it has been stored over the years, the tires may well be dryrotted as well. It doesn't take even close to thirty years for tires to self destruct given the right (wrong) conditions. Given that, and the previously mentioned questionable mechanicals, you've got another vote for hauling it. Congrats on the find!

MikeS

 

Wow, some find! I live in Colorado, the climate here helps some, I doubt too much is rusted (NOTHING rusts here!) but dry rot could be a problem. I'd do like they say, get a car hauler and drag it home! If you are worried about your truck (rightly) then RENT the whole thing! Go down to the local U-haul place and rent the truck AND trailer at the same spot! They aren't going to care that you only need it for 1-2 days, and it'll cost you less than $100 a day, which is a LOT less than getting hauled off the bottom of greenhorn pass! I wouldn't haul this with your new truck, you are right that the 1st 1000 miles is the most important and hauling 4000lbs 100 miles WILL make a difference. Either that or go take your new truck on a nice road trip down Highway 50! Break it in right! Anyhow, there are liable to be SO many game-breakers on a car that hasn't run in 30 years, it's not worth it (to you or the car) to take a chance. Coulple things you wanna watch. Bring a bunch of big strong people (here is where an EMPTY u-haul truck comes in handy! ) to push/pull/drag the car onto the trailer. The brakes could be stuck to the pads, the guy could have left the parking brake on (and after 30 years I GUARUNTEE that won't dis-engage without 'persuasion' !) the grease in the axels could be 'stiff' , the car may not wanna go into neutral, there could be a WHOLE buncha reasons it'll be hard to roll. If you've got a winch, bring it! It'll help! Have someone with another vehicle come with you to follow you. THey can watch and warn. Bring WD-40, hammers, wrenches, pry-bars. You may need all of this to get the car rolling, and to help you get it UP on the tow-dolly. Moving a 'dead' car is a B****! It might even be cheaper to call a tow truck. He can winch it onto his bed in about 10 minutes and a 100 mile tow bill will run you between $100-$200 depending. This is cheaper than hernia surgery! Hope this helps!

 

We got her to the shop thursday. I used my truck and trailer, fun going both ways a tad under 3000 rpm with the cut outs open, its broke in now. The truck did well, dident even flinch with the extra weight but the KD loves fuel especially with a fresh engine under it, $40 woth. I was nice and even gave the old owner some extra money. I'm going to start the documenting process later this week. I did pull the plugs out and squirted some turbine oil down it then put a breaker bar just to see if the engine would turn slightly but of course it dident, not too supprised. Now just gotta get the cash flow back up and were GTG. :rockon:

:edit: I did find out why the car was parked, no goolish secrets or anything, the owner moved to Colorado and back then none of the mountain roads were paved, he nearly went off a cliff after rain storm and it scared the wizz out of him so he got a 4x4 and stoped driving the car. Thats where the Malibu got the one dent from, scraped a tree.