Well, as I stood porting my heads a little more, I ran into a problem. I went to far. I went through the intake port, right where the little bend is for the pushrod. This is about an inch in from the intake manifold side. I originall used some stuff called Fas-Weld to fix it, but the more I think about it, I want to do it right. I know the "right" way is to get another set, but I have to much time and money in these to throw them away. My question is, what have you used, or heard of using to fix a problem like this? I know cast iron expands and contracts, and that is why using a regular wire welder isn't the best idea. My dad suggested having it TIG welded with some nickle rod. This is the idea that I am leaning to, but I want other opinions.

Thanks,

 

i just got done going through wyotechs high performance engines course, and i saw a few people(mostly instructors) do exactly what you said. problem is to do it right you would have to control how fast it is cooled off with an oxy-acetaline torch or something like that. if the cast iron cools too fast, it will crack the weld. it has to be cooled down very gradually. tig is the way ive seen it done, but it is usually a difficult task to accomplish correctly. if you are a good welder, and have a torch handy go for it. if not find a reputable guy in your area who will do stuff like that, and have it done. you will probably have to go back and redo some of the proting that you have done.

 

welding will draw carbon into the weld and make it hard, too hard to grind, that's why you'd want to use nickel filler metal. tig is very controlable but generates a lot of heat. without seeing the place to weld it'd be hard to guess ,but i think nickle tig is a good option.

 

You asked for opinions, here's mine. Throw those epoxy repair kits in the trash. Permatex/Loctite, Certainium, TPC, and others of the most highly touted brands just don't replace metal very successfully.

As for breaking through the heads, I've done that. Search for "head" and "porting" and weld" and see how many times "nickel" appears in some of my posts. I'll agree with your father.

 

Why not just repair this non critical area with some goodA+B epoxy.

Thats what I did on some 305 heads that I carved thru on.
Right in the same spot. The trick is to clean the oil off the metal.
Perchlorethyene Is the best stuff for cleaning oil off metal.

Some "Pro" brake cleaner spray cans have this in it.

Once ya clean the metal properly the Epoxy will stick and make a good repair.

You can buy A+B epoxy from Edelbrock, Por15....

HardCore HotRods

 

Actually, trichloroethylene 1,1,1 is a better solvent for cleaning right down to bare material, but you'll have a helluve time finding it any more in consumer packages.

I'm not a real fan of repair epoxies, since 20+ years of their failure in industrial applications has made me very wary indeed. The only success I've ever had is in filling galled or pitted surfaces in slideways, and only if the load distribution/bearing is about half of what the manufacturers advertise as a compressive strength for the repair epoxy. For retaining bearings, castings, frames, etc., I've given up on epoxy for anything more than cosmetic applications (like using Bondo as a filler). I prefer using iron cross-lug stitches, brazing, or alloy welding for most parts with far greater success.

Iron can be welded with other filler materials, and doesn't even need to be TIG welded (I've got nickel alloy sticks), but nickel makes a far superior alloy that won't fail from the different expansive rates of the materials. I'd hate to see a chunk of hardedned epoxy fall out of your head and into the lifter valley. If you're planning on machining the repair after you've filled the breakouts, nickel will be a lot stronger in thinner sections than any metal-bearing or glass-filled epoxy.

 

Thanks guys for all your help. The main concern I had was when the iron expands from heat, I am not certain the epoxy-steel will expand at the same rate. Of course, this could very easily cause a crack, or for the whole repair to fall out. With the engine assembled, this repair would be in the lifter valley area. From the sound of things, most of you are older than I, therfore have more experience. I know this repair "might" work, but after all the money, and time I have put into this, I don't want to have the engine buy the farm due to a cheap fix I made. Right now, I am going for the TIG repair with the nickle rod. I have to take this head to my dad tomorrow morning, and he is going to have their welder look at it. I am crossing my fingers. To help put my mind at rest, I will do the search Vader mentioned. Once again, thanks for all your responses.

 

You should be able to sleep more soundly with the welded repair.

 

After going through 3 searches, I found you were right. I will sleep better. I am now just hoping Mark, (the welder) can weld something like this. If not, we have a welding shop in town, I would hope they could.

Thanks again guys,

 

At the Mondello School for cylinder head porting they recommend HITHERE+b epoxy to fill in the holes under the rocker stud, and for minor oops like going thru on the intake side. This is only for the side, for the exhaust carries to much heat and most HITHERE+B are not recommened for that heat range.

But welding is the best way to go

 

Here are the holes:

 

#2

 

Oh man you really got carried away.
Ya know, you can buy heads with big ports eh....lol

I'd still go with the epoxy in this non critical non-load bearing area. Actually enlarging that area (more than a little) has little if any effect on flow.
Kind of a waste. Raising and widening the roof all the way
to the bowl has much more effect.
But it does look very familiar. Good Luck with either way you decide to go with the repair.

Any flow testing yet?

 

No testing, but I did raise the roof, and lower the floor a little. I knew that was one big thing on the Vortecs, is the tall port helped a lot. The width is a little misleading. The port was pretty much just opened to meet the intake properly. The holes occured when I went to deep into the port. You don't know how bad I want to use some epoxy stuff, but I am just scared it will crack, and fall out of the hole. I founf another hole in the other head that was porosity. It was always there. I noticed it before I touched that head. I am going to have that filled also. I will wait to see what the welder has to say.

 

I just read the latest Car Craft and found Por 15 makes some new epoxy rated at 2000* and can be used on cast iron. And the good part is, its only $10!! If nothing else, I will use this stuff.