ok..on my 86 berlinetta i swapped in a 350, ...<not the center bolt valve covers> in case anyone needed to know that. anyways, heres my problem, ..motor was running crappy, had 0 compression on # 7 cyl, so i pulled the valve covers off. where the rocker arm connects....in the center....what holds the rocker arm on i mean, ...whatever this is --i know little no nothing about internal engines> its pushed UP about half an inch....to the point where i can turn the rocker arm sideways....the spring isnt broke....its just whatever the rocker arm holds ontoo is yeah, pushed upwards a lil....what causes this?? whats broke? how hard is it to fix???????

 

Huh? I'm confused. You mean the nut that holds the rocker arm down? If it is way loose, it needs to be tightened down. You can do this by running the engine and tightening it down to the point where the ticking just goes away, then tighten another 1/4 turn slowly.
Even so, if it is not tightened down, this means the valve would be closed, so the cylinder should have compression either way.
Need some more info...

 

no the nut is tightened, i mean the bar or tube or whatver the nut is connected to is pushed up about 1/2 an inch

 

You mean the stud

 

is it a stud? i dont thinkk its a stud...its whatever the nut is connected to... it looks like a tube er something, ...in any event, what made it come up 1/2 an inch, and how do i get it back down???

 

What are you referring to here?

 

whatever the rocker arm is ontop of, ...whatever the nut connects to....vavle maybe?? i dunno....whatever it is, ..its literally pused up 1/2 an inch.....i cant really explain it better than that since i dont know what it is....but its what the nut in the middle of the rocker arm is connected to.....

 

hydrualic cam not a roller...if that helps any

 

Well it sounds as if you've pulled a stud. The stud acts as a fulcrum, which the rocker 'rocks' on. The pushrod pushes one end up, and in turn, pushes the other end down, which makes the valve open ( the spring only returns the valve to the closed position). If you've pulled a stud, you may have some problems. You will probably have to remove the head and take it to a machine shop, where they can probably repress the stud. You can 'pin the studs' to prevent this from happening in the future (inexpensive but effective way) or you could go to screw in studs, which would require machining, and thus would be a lot more expensive.
Either way, I would get that fixed ASAP before you cause some engine damage. I dont know how this would affect your compression, but it the valve isnt opening, your sure as heck not gonna produce a whole lotta power off that cylinder hehe.

 

i cant just stick a socket on it and whack it with a hammer?? lolol

 

HMMMM i mean, im sure you COULD....would I? no hehe

 

this isnt my daily driver or anything....my 92 is, ....this car "pulled the stud" or whatever and i thought the car was trashed for good....so i got the 92 for a good deal...besides the 86 is all dented up and looks like *** times ten....i just wanna fix this 350 and throw it in my 92 *eventually* .....new cam , pistons, rings, heads, ect....beef the 350 then drop it in....just theorizing really...anyways...maybe ill whack it with a hammer a lil see if it fixes it....lmao after all, ....i cant/dont drive that car EVER anyways, .....whackin the stud and presumably fixing it will jusy aid to simple amusement...

 

The "pull-out" stud has done what they are known for doing.... pulled out of the head.

That's why those of us who seriously build motors and expect them not to break, always machine heads for screw-in studs.

The correct answer is to take the heads off, take them to a machine shop, and have them fitted with screw-in studs.

Some people will advise pressing (pounding) it back down, drilling through it and the boss it goes into, and putting a roll pin through there to hold it in. There are also "repair" screw-in studs avalable, where you tap the hole out to some size, and just screw this stud in there.

The problem with either method is that it weakens the stud boss significantly, and makes it unreliable.

The studs go into the water jacket, so any leaks there, will leak anti-freeze into your oil. This will result in rapid complete destruction of the main, rod, & cam bearings.

Your main-most problem, the actual root cause of the failure, is probably the valve springs. Stock valve springs with bigger cams is a recipe for all sorts of malfunctions like this. Those springs have 2 problems: (1) they have very little tension near the seat, so the valve as it closes tends to bounce off the seat, which severely limits the engine's upper-RPM performance; and (2) their tension as valve lift increases past about .450" rises very rapidly, so they apply way too much force to everything at the peak of valve opening. No matter what you do about the stud, you need to put some real valve springs in there, with the right retainers, and get rid of the stock oil shields and rotators and all the rest of that stock crap, if it's still there.

What cam and rockers are in it?

 

STOCK cam and rockers ....rebuilt 350 from NAPA ...out of warranty now though.....in any event, i see a bigger cam poses a problem, and wanna ask a question about my 92....L03...i have a lt1 cam sitting here that im going to install into the l03 in two weeks, any suggestions??? <lets not pretend my pocket is deep and plentyful> lets say i have little money to spare, to anything needed definatly I.e springs ect , let me know please....i dont want this to happen to my ONLY car that i drive....

 

ROFLMAO ok, i took a socket, hammer, ...whacked it half way hard ten times, ..and the SOB went back IN lol yes ....its fixed, i went 6 months thinking i had a blow piston.....ad all i had to do, was that.....<---seriously lmao......not funny though....i bought a new car, and took 1/2 the crap off the 86 getting ready to pull the engine to replace a NON blown piston DERRRRRR
HER HERT!!!!!!!! ok...so now i have uh....50 things to put back on this car at the very least to get it to run again .....but still....this is too damned ironic and funny......

 

Don't count on it staying in. A nickel - no, I'm really sure of this, make that a dime - says it pulls out again before the car has driven another 50 miles.

 

Its not fixed yet, thats only a temporary solution. Atleast drill a hole and set in a pin, to hold it inplace.

 

any way i can fix this without pulling the head off?????

 

Be sure the stud is driven back down enough.

Drill and pin the stud right on the motor.
Get some 1/8" roll pins and some 3/32" drill bits. (hardware store)
The cast iron stud boss is easy to drill. The stud itself is case hardened and will be more difficult to drill. Use. MODERATE DRILL SPEED AND PRESSURE. . Be patent, sharpen the drill bit if it dulls.
It will chew throu. Drill all the way through the boss.
Drive the pin in and trim off the ends.
Use rags to wrap the valve springs and block the oil drainback holes. pick up the metal shavings with a magnet.

Don't rev the motor so high next time.

 

ok whats a boss...lol bare with me guys, never had to do head work before....and the head doesnt have to come off right???

 

The boss is the base of the stud (not the actual stud) but the thick part where the stud is pressed into.