???? It's an L98 with SLP 1 3/4 headers and Hooker catback. I did all the free mods, have an AFPR, and 166 degree fan switch. I'm thinking AS&M runners with ported plenum???

 

Do you have an air foil? Cause those things only cost like 40 bucks and they take off about .18 from your e/t. Or also sub-frame connectors they help with both handling and 1/4 mile. They cost from 80-200 bucks though.

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Chris
91 RS 305 TBI
Team Neo Blood

 

I am not a fuel injection expert so remember that as I tell you this but I think you are going a little big on the exhaust and runners if you are not planning better heads and a bigger cam. I believe that the stock L98 is very strong on torque and you are killing that with 1-3/4” headers and larger runners. If you are planning a good set of heads, larger cam and better intake base or maybe nitrous in the near future then never mind what I just said.

Just my opinion and I am not trying to flame you for your choice of parts.


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88 IROC convertible

 

Rear gears!!!One of the best mods that I made was changing 3.23 to 3.73's.Made her quick out of the hole.

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86 IROC mods:T.E.S.,Flowmaster muffler
T.P.I.S. airfoil,ported plenum,March
pulleys,Accel 8.8wires,supercoil,ign.mod.
RAM AIR induction,gutted MAF,
B&M shift kit,3.73 rear gears,Accel afpr,Hypertech stage 2 chip,Random Tech.cat.,Lakewood lower control arms,Lakewood adj.panhard rod
"The more I learn about women,the more
time & money I spend on my IROC"

 

tpis fast pack and chip, huge difference

 

Yup gears are good mod to do. I used to have 2.73 gears. And it reved to slow to get into my power band. But now I just swaped in a Borg Warner rear end. So now I got 3.27 w/posi. Which is alot more fun. Finnally both of my tires hook up. And also the acceleration is alot better. I love having friends. I got my B.W. rear for free! and it had everything on it. Braking power is alot faster to.

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Chris
91 RS 305 TBI
Team Neo Blood

 

Then start reading the Vortec head part of the tech board (there's not s separate part of the board for no reason...Yup...they're that hot!) 1st exhaust then airflow through the engine. It may be cam time if that's not enough.

 

Gears, and a cam. Look for a cam with 215-220 .050" intake duration, as much lift as you can get, and a lobe sep of 112-114. Comp, TPIS, LPE, etc. all have suitable ones to choose from. 3.42 or 3.73 for the gear or their 9-bolt equivalents if you want to go that way $$$$.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

read my signature it might give you some ideas

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1988 GTA Trans Am 350tpi: 42k miles,3:27 BW rear, aftermarket t-tops
Hotchkis: subframe connectors & strut tower brace
Flowmaster: 3inch exhaust& dual chamber muffler
Accel: 8.8mm wires, ignition module, cap&rotor, u-groove spark plugs
Edelbrock: 52mmTB, intake & runners
K&N: filtercharger
TPIS: 170* stat, afpr, mat relocation kit
March: performance crank and alternator pulleys
Hypertech: 176* dual fan switch
Other mods: ported plenum, gutted cat, tb coolant bypass
Future mods: Edelbrock tes headers, transgo shift kit, FLUX CAPASITOR(to make time travel possible)

 

If you are going to do stuff on the intake side, then start with the base. Get the high flow base from TPIS or ASM or Edelbrock. But if I were you, I would do gears and a higher RPM stall first and foremost. As was mentioned above the 1 3/4" headers are hurting your low end power, so with a higher RPM stall (2400 is good) and a set of 3.45s or 3.73s will greatly help you get out of the whole and into the meaty part of the power band quicker.

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission

Current Mods: Edelbrock TES Headers, Hooker Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip, 160* Thermostat, Accel 8.8mm Ignition Wires, K&N high flow air filters, gutted air box, gutted MAF sensor, Throttle Body Coolant By-Pass, Homemade Ram-Air, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

1/4 mile times without chip:
Best ET: 15.7 @ 89MPH
Best Corrected ET: 14.5 @ 96MPH

 

FIRST OFF RON WHAT HELP ARE ALL YOUR MODS IF YOU DONT SAY WHAT YOU 1/4 TIME IS?

SECOND, SUBFRAME CONNECTORS WILL NOT HELP YOUR 1/4 TIME. THEY ADD WIEGHT AND THAT MEANS SLOWER TIMES

THIRD DONT PUT A 2400 STALL CONVERTER IN IF YOU HAVE A STOCK CAM,ONLY IF YOU HAVE THAT 224/230 CAM, WHICH IS YOUR NEXT BEST BET, BUT THEY "MUST" BE DONE TOGETHER, TO MAKE IT WORK RIGHT. AND THAT IS A LOT OF WORK,BUT ITS WORTH IT. THATS AROUND $500 IN PARTS ALONE

 

FOR NOW YOUR STOCK THROTTLE BODY PLENIUM, RUNNERS AND BASE ARE FINE. IF YOU DONT WANT TO DO THE CAM AND CONVERTER DO 1.60 ROCKER ARMS.