Hmmm,
I just put in a new 180 stat from NAPA, i recently got the Performance Resource chip and the PR guys recommend a 180* stat. My car still runs pretty hot. Just now, Im thinking, could there be air pockets where the tube goes from the T-Stat to the radiator. I'm still new to engines being so young so after i drained the coolant and replaced the T-Stat i just bolted the 2 bolts back on and filled the radiator back up and the coolant bottle and put the Radiator cap back on.. Did i do this wrong? WOULD this cause my car to be hot? My fans work well, i just don't understand i suppose. I've read the archives, still baffeld though.

Thanks for all you help guys,
Joe

88 305 TBI T/A

 

Joe,

You may have to operate the engine through a few heat/cool cycles before all of the entrapped air is purged from the system. Make sure the recovery tank is filled to the proper level then recheck the radiator after it has completely cooled. Just keep topping off until the recovery bottle maintains a level. I've "cheated" by raising the front end of the car to help drive out entrapped air, but there always seems to be some hiding in there.

In addition, tap water will gas off until it has been heated thoroughly. Ever watch the bubbles form in a glass of tap water?

Finally, your radiator cap must be working properly to allow the coolant to return to the radiator when the engine cools.

Later,
Vader

------------------
"Some Body...Someone"

 

After you filled the radiator did you let all the air get out of your system? If not there will be air bubbles and that may cause it to overheat. Try to disconnect the battery for a little while and then go drive around for 30 or so miles to let the chip learn your car. Someone with a chip may know a little better than I do but those are my ideas.

 

Also, make sure there is plenty of air getting to your radiator. The air scoop on just behind the front bumper fell off on my car, and it has been running about 30* warmer than it should be.

------------------
1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission

Current Mods: Edelbrock TES Headers, Hooker Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip, 160* Thermostat, Accel 8.8mm Ignition Wires, K&N high flow air filters, gutted air box, gutted MAF sensor, Throttle Body Coolant By-Pass, Homemade Ram-Air, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

1/4 mile times without chip:
Best ET: 15.7 @ 89MPH
Best Corrected ET: 14.5 @ 96MPH

 

Did you turn on your heater after finishing the work? You may have air trapped in the heater core that needs to be bled out.

 

Don't know if your running hot problem is because your cooling system is air bound, but here is the procedure I use to make sure the cooling system is void of air. This assumes you've drained the cooling system & the engine is cold.
Fill radiator, but not to the top. Leave it down abit 3-4". Only reason for this is your going to push out coolant while your doing the next step.
Leave the radiator cap off & start the engine & let it idle. Turn on your heater. Let the engine run until the thermostat opens, as evidenced by feeling your upper radiator hose getting hot. When this happens, air in the cooling system will begin to push coolant out the radiator neck opening, as the air is trying to escape as well. At some point the rising coolant level that is overflowing your radiator neck will stop & the coolant level in the radiator will drop dramatically. Most of the air in the cooling system is now purged, so begin to add more coolant while the engine is still running, completely filling the radiator. Install the radiator cap. Then overfill your reservior bottle because there still will be a small amount of air still trapped in the system. This small amount of air will not create a running hot condition. After a few heat up & cool down cycles, the final small amount of air will be purged & the additional coolant in your reservoir will be pulled into the cooling system. After a few days of driving, top off your reservoir if necessary. Additionally, if you have a coolant flushing T in your heater hose, this is an excellent place to bleed air from the cooling system (primarily heater core circuit as well). After performing the above procedure, crack open the flushing T cap as well & make sure coolant is flowing out. Remember, air wants to work its way to the highest point in your cooling system. That is where it should be bled from.
Regards, FJK

 

Joe, just out of curiosity, what temp are you running at?

 

Thanks FJK, that paragraph will help me now and in the future. I really appreciate it.

Since the new chip and thermo's, my car has been idleing up to 220 and a little beyond. I know these engines were made to run hot, but i feel mine is getting to hot to fast if you know what i mean. Air dam is there, no debris in between radiator/condenser that i know of.

When I installed a new Thermo yesterday i also replaced the gasket as well, after driving a little last night i parked and popped the hood open to see that it was leaking slightly and bubble-ing some. Looks like i will be changeing the gasket tomorrow before work, and this time when i drain and refill i will follow FJK's paragraph too the tee! Before i just filled radiator and put the cap on and filled the coolant bottle and ran the car.

Eh, im only 17 so i'm just beginning to learn.

When i say I appreciate all your guys help, i frigging mean it

Thanks,
joe

[This message has been edited by JoeCool TA (edited July 26, 2000).]

 

FJK is absolutely correct. That procedure is what I always use and it gets most of the air out. I'd just like to add that changing the thermostat won't make your car run cooler around town. It will only allow the coolant to flow to the radiator at a lower temp. The fan needs to be running at 180 to take advantage of the 180 Stat.

------------------
82 camaro--original steering wheel, brake/gas pedals, seats--everything else modified
82camaro

 

Except for what Mr. 82CAMARO stated, I saw nothing posted about you having the fans come on sooner than factory settings. If you've read the other tech articles/posts, you probably realize that the stock fans come on WAY too late (factory design for emissions). As has been posted many times before, change your fan switch (located on the passenger side engine block, above the starter) to another switch (got mine from Summit 800-230-3030, on at 200°, off at 185°) that'll turn on your fans sooner!

FYI, my stock settings for my 91 camaro were:

RIGHT FAN "on" when: coolant is greater than 222°F (!) -or- A/C control head pressure is > 232 PSI.

LEFT FAN "on" when: coolant is greater than 238°F (wow!) -or- A/C pressure is > 232 PSI.

As 82CAMARO stated, changing the thermostat will only affect the temperature at highway speeds unless you ALSO do something to have the fans come on sooner (switch in the block and/or manual on/off switch, etc.)

[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited July 27, 2000).]

 

Joe, I can't remember if the PR chip reducces he fan turn on or not, you may want to give them a call and ask. If they programmed it for stock temps, your running about right. You may want to do a pressure test on your cooling system, and maybe swap your rad. cap. Good Luck.

------------------
If you have a problem,
If no-one else can help,
And if you can find them,
Maybe you can hire....
THE A-TEAM

 

Hey thanks for all the help guys,
Are these fan switches easy to install? The stock switch is under the car? Do you happen to also have a part number, price?

Thanks Again
Joe

 

Joe, just saw your first post, and I can't remember, so maybe someone can pop in and add to this, but I don't think the chip controls the fans on TBI cars, not sure though. As for the part number, I don't know but you can check here: http://www.jegs.com/
http://www.summitracing.com/

 

Red Devil is correct. Cooling fan on a TBI car is controlled by temp sensor/switch on right side head, just above starter motor.

 

JC,

1. It was easy for me to install.

2. Stock switch is on right side above starter as AZDave stated.

3. Call Summit (see my post above) for telephone number. They often have items available that are not in their catalog. The temperature switch I got from them was a JET-60600 for about $50 (not listed in their catalog). Call them and tell them what you want. They are knowledgable. Free shipping and no tax will probably make it a good deal.

[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited July 28, 2000).]

 

Thankyou very much AZDave and Stuart Moss, plus all the other people who posted on this thread, really have helped me out a ton, i really appreciate it!

Thanks Again,
Joe

 

Or, you can do what I did for a whole lot cheaper....

First, I disconnected the wire going into the fan switch. I then got a connnector that fit the the plug (so I could always put it back to stock if I chose to) with about a foot of wire attached to it and wrapped it around the negative battery terminal. Presto, now your fans come on as soon as your ignition comes on

hope that made sense; its a little late

------------------
1989 IROC
305 TPI/A4

-just trying to keep it running

 

BTW, this mod and the removal of my thermostat keeps my car under 200* in 90+ heat with the a/c on

At night with the air off it stays about 130*

------------------
1989 IROC
305 TPI/A4

-just trying to keep it running