All going into a 88 Iroc.....
3:73 Rear
TH-350 (Maual valve body, hardened race sprag, etc)

 

Here's a couple suggestions: Convert your bitmaps to a jpeg and drop like 90% of the size while retaining most of the quality. Don't host huge pics on a slow server(they took forever to load on my t3). Those 1.4 meg pics could have easily been converted to 20kb jpegs and still served their purpose. Most people probably won't see the pictures.

Should see 12s.

 

more like anything beware.... im on T1/T3 and im still waiting... anyway... ill edit this when i see whats going on

edit: ok thats better... Im gunna say with some playing around with some stuff, you could get better results then that. Is this gunna be a street motor or a track motor or little bit of both? That looks like a mean street motor, and im sure you can hit low 13's to high 12's with that, if everything else is setup right... gears, stall, suspension, etc... thoes programs arent really good at telling you what you would really get out of them so dont go 100% on what you found there. Its a good tool to see what certain mods can do to bring to life your 350, but i wouldnt base my engine on that.

 

:EDITED:

Sorry......

 

depending on the tranny/gear combo, you could see mid-low 12's

 

Hmmm.... stock 882 heads {insert porcelain-bus-driving sound-effect here}

285 HP at the crank peak.... should be good for low-mid 14s with traction (shouldn't be too much of an issue)

 

Its gnna be a street engine with an occasional run at the track for fun. Im sure I could spend some more $$ on other things, and get quite a bit more power from it, but there comes a point when my wallet says STOP!

To tell you the truth....12's will satisfy me. Im not spending all that much on the engine so I'd be pleased.

 

I'm with RB83L69, what flow #s did you enter for those 882 heads? They only put out like barely 200/150cfms(may even be less), unless they are ported heavily by someone who knows what there doing I don't think you will see 370HP....if there stock heads expect max 300HP....without good heads that big cam is a waste...also invest in a vaccum canister cause your not gonna have power brakes. If you do port the heads urself I would get em flow tested to see your work.

 

They were ported and milled by the man who built the engine.
Ill ask him for the flow #'s.

 

How are you figuring over 10 to 1 compression with the big smogger heads. Those heads will keep you from getting into the 12's.

 

uum where did you see 285 crank hp? the peak is 373 hp and 411 tq. assuming 20% loss that's almost 300 at the wheels. my friend dyno'ed 309 rwhp and 517.9 rwtq and goes 12.88

 

I see 882 heads, with 155 cc intake ports, on top of a flat-top motor (9:1 CR at best), with a 292H cam that's designed for a 10½ or higher motor.

To me, that says "slow". Been doing this too long to believe the other stuff on that screen.

Let him build it, with his own money; and then come back and tell us what it did in the real world.

 

and i just noticed it said VIRTUAL engine. i was thinking this was actual engine dyno. i had 882 heads on my car. it would go past 3500 for peak. so i was confused there.

 

882 casting milled to 71cc for compression and sealing
23 degree valve angle, 155cc intake port, 80cc exhaust
Valve diameters 1.94 intake and 1.5 exhaust
Flow test pressure @ 28" H2O

Lift @ .100 70. 59.0
.200 125 109
.300 178 136
.400 204 143
.500 205 144
.600 206 145
These numbers are direct from GM prior to ANY modification to Valve stem, bowls or runners. Do me a favor and ask one of your friends to give me a set of flow numbers off of any early model GM head that is better than these. I would like to see them.

 

Rule of thumb is 2 HP per cfm of intake flow.... according to that, those heads are good for 290 HP max, in a well-optimized combo (which that one is not).... looks like I didn't miss by too much, maybe even erred on the side of generosity.

What difference does it make to the issue at hand what other heads are better than those smoggers? I thought you wanted feedback about the combo you posted. I gave you my honest opinion, based on repeated experience and observation; if you want something besides that, I suppose everybody that's never touched a wrench in their life can give you glowing attaboys about what they see on that "virtual engine" screen, and leave you to discover the truth yourself with your own real money.

Quite simply, I would not build that engine, period. I've seen motors almost exactly like that done over and over again, with the same results every time (disappointment); I have no reason to suspect that the next time that motor gets built it will be any different.

What are you really trying to do? Are you trying to find a combo, or evaluate one (maybe an already assembled motor or mail-order catalog motor or something)? Maybe a better approach would be to tell us a little about the car, what you want it to do, how much money you want to spend, how fast you want it to go, whether it's carb or TPI or TBI, how much power you want, etc. etc. Then we can offer useful suggestions instead of getting into stupid arguments based on confusion between the real world and Desktop Dyno.

 

Maybe im reading it wrong....doesnt it say 206cfm of "intake" flow?

 

My bad...

I still don't think you're going to get those numbers out of those heads. Too much real-world to the contrary.

It seems like you really want to do this though, since you're defending it so adamantly, so go ahead and do it, and ignore me. Let us all know how it works out.

 

Not that im arguing because I want to do it...I already have the engine.

 

If his motor hits 12s, I have serious tuning issues --- which I do LOL. I am running 12.6 at 109 and 12.08 w/ a 100 shot at 114. But the motor in my sig is a beast. I did that dyno program and attained 600HP/580LBS/TQ. I should be seeing the 11s easy with that setup. I also have a moser 9" with 4.11s. My new tranny is being built-- a TH400 manual valvebody with a JW 5000RPM stall.

Id say you will see the low 13s but tuning will help. You are talking about 300HP rear wheel.