Check these pics out of the motor I just tore down Any chance the head gasket was blown? This is the #8 cyl. If there's anything else that could be the cause please say so! The engine sat for about a year. I'm thinking it's beyond honiong(sp?) and should be bored out .030 at a minimum.

 

Guess pics would help...

 

#2

 

Looks like #8 intake valve is open on that head, its been letting water in. Did the engine sit uncovered?

Hard to say if the gasket went or if water got in and worked its magic. The cylinders may be honeable, the heads are toast IMHO.

RB

 

I'm not sure if the engine sat outside or what. Probably not since that's the only rust on the motor. It lived in San Diego as well so that would keep it from getting too wet as well.

 

Beats me. That head looks pretty rough. What are the casting numbers and are they worth keeping.Looks to me like cleaning them would be worse than just getting another set.

The cylinder looks ok as long a there are no gouges. Bore it.

When you pulled the head, was it full of water/antifreeze or was it dry?

 

I'm getting different heads because I need accessory holes and such. The cylinder was totally dry whem I pulled the head but the motor has been sitting around for a while. Am I correct in thinking it's beyond honing?

 

Sarge,

You're going to need a few items to determine whether or not you can "save" the bore - abrasive pads, an inside micrometer or telescope gauge, and some time.

Run the piston down into the bore as far as you can. Clean up the bore with steel wool, ScotchBrite pads, crocus cloth, a wire wheel on a die grinder, or whatever it takes to cut the rust down to metal. Avoid aluminum oxide sandpaper if you can, since the abrasive particles can embed in the iron and cause problems later. You don't have to clean the bore down to shiney metal, just metal. As long as the rust is gone, even dark, stained iron will be fine.

Once it's cleaned, start measuring the bore from top to bottom, sisde to side, check for taper, etcetera. If you have less than 0.003" of runout or taper, you may be able to save the bore without machining. A glaze-breaker hone might be all that's necessary. A fixed-stone hone (Sunnen-type) would be ideal so that material is removed evenly and only to the set point of the stones.