Anyway I should have it all set up today, have my carb, distributor (non cc) and new fuel pump which I just came 2 the conclusion I wont use until the stock one dies. I have a 3 port regulator 5.5-9psi. The question is, do I need to use the return fuel line. So far I will be using one outlet to go to the carb, the inlet to come from the fuel pump, and the other outlet for my Fuel Pressure Gauge. So could I just cap off the return line or leave it open or what? Another thing is, Im sure this has been covered be4 and I checked search and everything but still a little confused.

How will VATs react, since the computer shouldnt control anything anymore will I be fine and VATs be disabled? If not could you please show me what I should do with that. Thanks a Ton

May The Force Be With You :hail: :lala:

 

if youll be using the stock pump, you need the return line. Otherwise, the pump will overheat and fry itself. The pressure would be too much as well with the three port regulator if you block it off, since after 5 or whatever psi your using the regulator bypasses the excess fuel. To my knowledge, the two port regulators are a bit different and thats the one youll be wanting to use with a mechanical fuel pump.

Edit:
You could probably use the three port regulator with the mechanical pump if you run a return line. The only thing youll be doing is jsut pumping gas around through the fuel system. Its kind of a waste, though, since all youll be doing is heating the fuel up as it passes around the engine compartment, possibly causing vapor lock problems.

 

:hail: THANK YOU

You know the answer to my VATs question by any chance?

 

wire the fuel pump relay to a power sorce that comes on when the ignition is in the on position and youll be fine. Youll have to do this anyway if youll be using a carb.

 

You need to splice a hot wire into the GREEN/WHITE wire in the fuel pump relay. I ran a wire from my "trunk" fuse to it and it works fine.

You need the return line. Just run the regulator at the location were the fuel lines are rubber. Its simple.

Thats what I did and no problems yet. Id run a mechanical pump but my block has no place for it

 

No idea where the fuel pump relay is or what it looks like, could ya lead me 2 it or better yet take a picture. Sorry, im retawded

 

My little brother's 91 RS did not need any re-wiring for the fuel pump when we did the TBI to carb. That's not to say yours won't. I just know his didn't since we did it a week ago. But the wire from the ignition to the starter would not send power to the starter solenoid due to VATS as you mentioned.

The starter relay is in the kick panel next to your left foot when you are sitting in the driver's seat. It has two thick wires and two thin one. The two thick ones are the ones you want to have
making connectivity. There are a few ways to do that. You could splice them, ground the appropriate little wire, or use a jumper like we did. This of course makes your car more vunerable to theft.

 

Actually, Mallory claims just the opposite...having the fuel continually circulating helps to keep the fuel cool....I run a Malory 3 port with no problems..using the stock return line....

 

Same here. I haven't had any vapor lock problems. Even when I had dual exhaust on it I was fine. Even tho exhaust was literally an inch away from fuel line in some spots.

If you leave the oil pressure sender intact the pump may run.

I did away with it all. Mine would prime but stop pumping after a few seconds. If the relay reads 0 oil pressure it will cut off fuel. Im pretty sure this is why mine had to be rewired.

I may try to reinstall the oil pressure sender and reattach it and see what happens.

 

Thanks for all the impute guys, im leaving the ecm in for this week just because I dont really want to be bothered with it and need it running. So my vats shouldnt give me any problems im hoping. Ill just try it out and see if it works, hopefully the fuel pump wont need any messing around with. Ill keep you cats posted.

 

I think you are right. That is probably why my brother's did not require any messing around with the fuel pump relay. We used the existing sending unit that is on top of the oil filter housing. So it is sending the signal oil pressure is there.

 

Aite ive set everything up, except for I havent attached my ignition cable to the + on my mallory coil because well...I donno which one my ignition cable is lol. Im not 100 percent but I remember on my old coil it was one side HEI and the other side had like an electrical outlet that you see on the wall in your house. Just smaller. When i swapped my distributor and coil one of those just came off because its a new distributor and coil and didnt need it anymore. The other i just unplugged and its sitting there. One Red and One White Wire, donno if its that at all so could please somebody show me where the ignition wire is so i can plug it up 2 my new coil. Thank you.