I have read that the 400 SBC is a good engine, expecially the 2-bolt.

Where can I find a block? How many times can they be rebuilt? What are some things I should look for?

Does anyone sell bare blocks online? Or custom or production shortblocks?

Thanks guys!

 

Do you want just a block or a shortblock?

If you just want a block you can scavage throught the junkyard and hope to get lucky a get a decent rebuildable block. Or you can get one of these for the low down bargain price of $1699.99

 

Ouch, that's expensive (Dart isn't it?) Are they fully compatible with Chevy 400 stuff? Or do those blocks use their own proprietary parts you need to buy?

I am hoping to keep the cost around 2,000-2,500 total for a shortblock, and assembly of it.

Here is the plan:

400 block (Block Casting 330817) 2-bolt main.

Rotating assembly: http://www.flatlanderracing.com/assemscatcast.html

Crankshaft: SCAT Cast Steel 9000 Series 3.75 Stroke
Rod: Manley Sportsmaster Forged
Pistons: Wiesco, Probe or ROSS Forged Pistons 5.7/6.0

Do you think that combo would work fine up to 6,500 rpm? I am hoping to match a camshaft to a powerband of 2,000-6,000 or so. (if that's possible). Also, can I choose what sort of cam the engine uses? Roller, Hydraulic? What would be best for me?

I plan on using AFR 195cc heads: 76 cc, which should meet a 10.2:1 compression ratio with this rotating assembly, and topping it with a Holley Stealth Ram, ?-lb injectors, and a Commander 950 ECM.

I have a Jr Raptor Th700r4, and a stock 3.23 rear end. If I change the rear end out, I will most likely keep that gear ratio.

Now, If I took a block, and a rotating assembly into a machine shop, what would I need them to do? Does anyone know how much money I could expect to pay to have them check/clean/etc the block, then install the rotating assembly?

What else would I need to worry about? A special flexplate? Or starter?

This would be for a daily driver, so I wouldn't want to have it be to horrible on the street. I am also hoping by using FI, a overdrive automatic, and 3.23's the fuel economy won't be too bad.

 

im doing somthing similar..

as for the shortblock... 2 options

1. get the parts and have someplace local build it...

2. buy a prebuilt one.. there are literally 100s of places that do this.... get one ment for a performance engine and you will be all set... prices range from $899+core engines to 8k for just the shortblock....




as for the actual engine... yes you need a externally balanced flywheel/flexplate and a diff hormonic balencer.


also, if i were you and had the money, i would get some conversion roller lifters and put a roller cam in it..... that would let you have great power while being 100% daily driver streetable.

if you stick with a normal flat tappet cam, it will have to be more radical and that can be a real headache on the street... esp with FI...

 

Your combo looks pretty good so far. The only thing I would change on it is to go away from the Scat cast crank and go with a forged crank since the rest of the bottom end is soild. The cast crank would probably work fine, but it's nice to have the forged in the incase you want to add nitrous later on. No worrys then. Also you can buy the 400 cranks internaly balanced which will save you alot of headaches in the long run, I would strongly advise you to do this. Then you can run a regular smallblock flywheel and damper on it. Speaking of dampers, make sure you get a good one if you are going to turn that motor that tight, get a ATI or a Fluidamper. On the cam side of the build up, everybody has there own idea of "streetable" so it really depends on how wild you would like it. If your budget allows I would go with a retrofit roller. Something in the Comp Extreme Energy line. If you do go roller you will not be able to get in on your budget of $2500 for the short block so you may end up going with a flat tappet cam, again look into the Extreme Energy line from Comp. At the machine shop you will want the block cleaned, checked for crack, bored, decked, and possibly line honed depending on the block. Make sure you get the rotating assembley balanced, do not skemp on this part, make sure you have it done. All the machine work and assembly of the short block will cost you between $800-$1200 depending on where you go.

 

It seems like this can get expensive quickly.

I have plenty of questions, expecially on camshafts. Roller is better? Are they any books / websites anyone can suggest? I really need to learn more.

 

Surf through this site: http://www.chevyhiperformance.com
You'll find some good articles that might answer a few if not most of your questions. Look at the menu on the left. Click on Tech Articles.

 

<a href="http://www.speedomotive.com/425%20H.P.%20STRONG%20ARM%20400%20STREET%20MASTER.htm">400 shortblock</a>

Anyone think that would an ok shortblock for my application? It looks mostly cast. Would it hold up ok?

Also, what else would need to be done to it? Steam holes drilled, would they need to re-drill for a starter too? Knock sensor?

 

Speed-o-motive sells quality products. Your biggest determining factor for making power after the shortblock purchase would be your choice of heads. Stay somewhat conservative (Vortec, 906 Pro Topline, E-tec 170,etc.) if this is going to be a daily driver. Are you going to go with a carb? TPI will need some modifications to work.