I am quoteing 8Mike9 here,

"Post up a message for "Willie", he's may have a source for this, I recall him chasing a MAF problem, and he replaced
and repinned the connector."

Where did you get a 5 pin connector for the Bosch MAF? Thanks alot..see my other me complaining post to hear my whole story..thanks alot

------------------
-Red '88 IROC 5 Speed TPI
-Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
-Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
-Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
-Accel U-Grove Plugs
-Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
-Hypertech Chip
-Hypertech Airfoil
-Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
-Gutted Air Box
-Best E/T 14.90, 60 ft. 2.17, 1/8th mile 9.61(bald tires, SES light on)
-Best MPH 92.7(bald tires)

 

There are two sources for connectors I know of, Pep Boys and your local Chevy dealership. The 5-pin MAF connector is rather expensive (for what it is). At Pep Boys, it's on the order of $20 and contains five black wires. The GM piece is higher in cost (don't recall how much though) and contains five white wires.

Whichever one you use, do NOT twist wires to make your new connections. Make absolutely sure to solder the connections and seal it with heat shrink. One of the wires is a 5-volt reference and a second carries between 0 and 5 volts. With twisted connections, it's very possible to lose a sizeable amount of connectivity.

------------------
Willie

Supercharged 1987 305 IROC-Z, Daily-Driver, Emissions-Legal.
12.57 @ 111 mph.
12.04 @ 114 mph (50-hp nitrous).
http://www.ozemail.com/au/jca69/mods/williesz/willie.html

1987 "20th Anniversary Commemorative Edition" Z28 Convertible -- Super Chevy Show Class Winner, 1998.

 

I don't often disagree with Willie, but I tend to prefer good crimp-connections over solder. I've found that situations where wires may be bending or vibrating can cause the solder to crack and you'll be there scratching your head forever before you find it. My favorite way to do any automotive electrical connections are with butt connectors. I squeeze a little di-electric grease into the butt connector, strip the wire short enough so that there is no bare wire exposed out of the connector, then crimp it securely with GOOD crimpers. The quality of the butt connector is also very important, as is using the proper size. I get the ones with the softer, flexible plastic sheath. Some of the Wall Mart style jobs have a hard sheath that cracks. Most underhood wires will fit into the red ones, but some of the larger wires will need the blue connectors. The MAF wires will use the red ones. Anyway, before you crimp it, slide heatshrink tubing down the wire a little way. Crimp it, and tug on it to make sure it's solid. Then slide the heatshrink over it and heat it into place. I usually go one step further and use electrical tape to cover the whole area, because sometimes you need such a big piece of heat shrink to go over the butt connector that it doesn't shrink enough around small wires. After it's done and tested, make sure to get some split loom tubing to put around the wires.

Many people will prefer solder over this method. If you are a skilled solderer you can do a very good job, but if you're not good at it you're looking for trouble. I have always preferred this method, and I've had no problems even on my winter driven, salt filled cars. Whichever method you choose, take your time and do it right, or you'll be doing it again at a very inconvenient time.

------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

Jim,

Tim Burgess, a senior electrical engineer taught me the proper way to solder. You are correct that if it is not done properly, it can crack. BUT if it's done properly, it is the best way to assure a reliable connection.

To assure a good solder joint, the soldering iron must be at the proper temperature. Each exposed wire end must be tinned thoroughly also. Then when connecting the wires together, you must make sure the tinned ends go to a liquid state, otherwise a cold solder joint results (bad!!). Once you get practiced, it is simple to do.

Willie

 

hmmm.....tinned? im assuming here....that a tinned wire is one that seems dipped in solder at the end. kinda like speaker wires on your new stereo or soemthing....

------------------
350, Comp 262, Edelbrock Performer intake 600 cfm carb and exhaust, headers

 

Sort of. They aren't "dipped" in solder. Tinning them is when you get them good and hot with the soldering iron and allow the solder to melt and flow through the wire toward the heat. This provides a good base of solder on both pieces of wire, so that when you bring them together and apply the heat, the solder will flow freely throughout both pieces. When I do my wires, I actually separate the strands slightly, then interweve the strands of the two wires as they face each other in much the same way you interweave your fingers when you stretch your back. Anyway, after that's done, I press the strands tightly together and essentially "tin" them together. I make sure that everything is good and hot and that the solder flows through the wires and isn't just simply melted by the soldering iron. This interwoven, soldered joint is extremely strong, and is also much more compact than just butting the wires together with solder.

------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

Ah- that explains it, you guys were talking about cold soldering joints! I was told by an ASE tech that the proper way to splice harness wires is soldering. I can solder like an ace, but can't crimp a butt connector for the life of me

Besides, don't butt connectors introduce a resistance?


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Yes, but it's neglegable.

------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

Soldering is the only way to go - unless you run into aluminum wires (like the partial harness that runs to the rear lights). Crimp type connectors are not only subject to vibration, but mousture, as well. Electrolosys may cause corrosion in a crimped connection, which can result in a significant (variable) voltage drop through a connection in a low current (sensor)circuit. Properly tinning each wire with a good quality rosin core solder (solder does have a shelf life, too), and allowing the solder enough time to flow with adequate heat will make a good strong low resistance connection that is resistant to corrosion and vibration. A good connection will appear "shiny", while a cold joint will appear to have a dull finish. Many of the wires under the hood may have an oxide on the strands after the insulation is stripped off that will make them unable to be tinned. Using a wire brush to clean the strands before pretinning will, in most cases, make the wires tinable. If not, solder flux may be used to aid in the tinning process. One more note on wiring.....Stranded wires should always be used in automotive applications, as solid wire will stress and eventually fail under vibration or flexing conditions.


Tim