NO POWER !!
NO POWER !!
Ok guys here's the deal, I just preformed a engine swap 2 weeks ago. I put a L98 350 in place of my old worn out 305 LG4. I tranfered my carb over, put on a Elderbrock performer intake, headers, 3 inch pipe and cat. With all this I can't even chirp the tires! and I still only have one wheel drive. (I don't have a posi rear end yet). One thing I should add is I have a constant check engine light, I get a code 41 when checked. I'm also getting around 10 MPG. not good.(13 on the highway) She also bogs under 1000 RPMs when it gets hot and I get a real rough idle. I know this is a lot but I have a lot wrong. This was a brand new engine that cost me a small fourtune. I'd like it to go a little faster than a YUGO. Thanks guys
I had it in a shop when I first built it, He told me it had 20 inches of vac, I put new jacobs wires on , new dist. and rotor, and a new computer. I still may have some vac leaks I just can't find them. The shop I took it too said I had a dead computer so he couldn't do any carb adjustments. I picked up my car and replaced my computer and have been hopeing to save some money and fix as much as possible my self. Thanks
ok you kept the comp controlled q-jet, and im assuming also the comp controlled distirbutor? maybe it just needs to be fine tuned...start the timing at like 6* make sure all your vac hoses are connected right. then check the carb for any vacuum leaks..spray it down with carb cleaner while it's running...if it starts to run bettwr when you spray a particular ares, you have a leak there. dont forget the base of the carb either. also make sure the distributor isn't a tooth off.
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350, Comp 262, Edelbrock Performer intake 600 cfm carb and exhaust, headers
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350, Comp 262, Edelbrock Performer intake 600 cfm carb and exhaust, headers
Well guys , my car is dead.... She went down while driving today. I'm almost sure it's a carb problem. Tons of black smoke, 3 MPG, reaks of fuel,and was bogging badly. I think my plugs are covered with carbon. This is why she died, to top it off my right headder came loose, this caught all kinds of looks. The people behind me decided to help by blowing their horn. Not that I didn't appreciate this, I just couldn't help waving them past with my middle finger. After a coupple other stalls I decided to try and ripp off my steering wheel this resulted in my horn button falling out and my wheel being bent at approx 90deg. The bent wheel didn't seem to fix things either so she's going to sit Idle till I can afford to take it to a shop. This is my daily driver car and without it I'm screwed. I thank those people who gave me advise. Thanks JIM
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,386
Likes: 1
From: Tucson,AZ,USA
Car: Junk
Engine: Junk with nitrous
Transmission: Junk with gears
You swapped to a 350 and did all that stuff, but you kept the computer?!?!?! Save yourself the headache and throw that **** away. Get yourself a vacuum advance non computer controlled early HEI distributor and a standard quadrajet or even better (much better IMHO
) get a holley 4150 style carb or an edlebrock 750. you'll thank me later, trust me.
Chris
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Nice car: 1988 Formula 355, mildly ported/polished Vortec heads, RPM intake, Comp Cams Extreme 268 cam, 650 Holley double pumper, 5-speed/3.73 Richmond gears, and N02 on the way
Old 1/4mile: 13.5@105mph
Evil Car: 78 Pontiac Grand Prix, 500inch caddy motor, edlebrock intake,HP Holley 750 DP race prepped carb, B@M TH350 tranny, 16inch Iroc-Z rims, blacked out chrome, soon to run 10's...
There's no replacement for displacement!
) get a holley 4150 style carb or an edlebrock 750. you'll thank me later, trust me. Chris
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Nice car: 1988 Formula 355, mildly ported/polished Vortec heads, RPM intake, Comp Cams Extreme 268 cam, 650 Holley double pumper, 5-speed/3.73 Richmond gears, and N02 on the way
Old 1/4mile: 13.5@105mph
Evil Car: 78 Pontiac Grand Prix, 500inch caddy motor, edlebrock intake,HP Holley 750 DP race prepped carb, B@M TH350 tranny, 16inch Iroc-Z rims, blacked out chrome, soon to run 10's...
There's no replacement for displacement!
Trending Topics
Hey Chris can I get it by the smog sniffer without a computer? that's my main worry. I would be more than happy to remove my computer , lay it on the ground , set it on fire and dance around it for a while . If I thought I could make it run better and pass the Ohio E check I'd do it. Our E check isn't as bad as the one in Cali. so I may pass it but it could be risky. Any advise?
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,907
Likes: 5
From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
Yes, you should be able to adjust the carb to pass your emissions check. May have to lean it out a bit and it may not be optimal for performance. But, you can re-adjust after you pass.
Thanks Glen, I have one more question on removeing the computer. Will my stock TH700 trans still funtion? I can get a 350 trans but I kinda like my overdrive.
I've heard that removing the computer will cause your trans not to shift any more. Is this true?? Thanks for any advise. JIM
I've heard that removing the computer will cause your trans not to shift any more. Is this true?? Thanks for any advise. JIM
I think it's unanimous that the first mistake was to keep the computer Q-Jet and distributor. Get a late model regular Q-Jet and be sure to find a way to hook up your TV cable so the transmission will shift like it's supposed to. The only all-electronic TH-700s were on the front-drivers. You might lose the torque-converter lockup, though. You could rig up something on the accelerator pump lever to move the TPS switch, which could be attached nearby. This assumes you've kept all the computer stuff intact and wired. I've found the transmission shifts smoother with the TCC disconnected, but I lost 2 MPG!
As far as emissions are concerned, here's a trick that usually works. Overdrive the smog pump! Get a pulley about half the size of the original. That pump will flush so much fresh air down the pipe that the smog-sniffer will think it's in the middle of a spring breeze! CAR CRAFT used that trick a long time ago to get a 1979 Camaro project car past the smog test.
As far as emissions are concerned, here's a trick that usually works. Overdrive the smog pump! Get a pulley about half the size of the original. That pump will flush so much fresh air down the pipe that the smog-sniffer will think it's in the middle of a spring breeze! CAR CRAFT used that trick a long time ago to get a 1979 Camaro project car past the smog test.
I think it's unanimous that the first mistake was to keep the computer Q-Jet and distributor. Get a late model regular Q-Jet and be sure to find a way to hook up your TV cable so the transmission will shift like it's supposed to. The only all-electronic TH-700s were on the front-drivers. You might lose the torque-converter lockup, though. You could rig up something on the accelerator pump lever to move the TPS switch, which could be attached nearby. This assumes you've kept all the computer stuff intact and wired. I've found the transmission shifts smoother with the TCC disconnected, but I lost 2 MPG!
As far as emissions are concerned, here's a trick that usually works. Overdrive the smog pump! Get a pulley about half the size of the original. That pump will flush so much fresh air down the pipe that the smog-sniffer will think it's in the middle of a spring breeze! CAR CRAFT used that trick a long time ago to get a 1979 Camaro project car past the smog test.
As far as emissions are concerned, here's a trick that usually works. Overdrive the smog pump! Get a pulley about half the size of the original. That pump will flush so much fresh air down the pipe that the smog-sniffer will think it's in the middle of a spring breeze! CAR CRAFT used that trick a long time ago to get a 1979 Camaro project car past the smog test.
Thanks for the advise, that's a great Idea! I think I may try that.
Another question is this , if I go with no computer what carb should I go for? An old style Q jet or a eblebrock like Cris suggested. Thanks JIM
Another question is this , if I go with no computer what carb should I go for? An old style Q jet or a eblebrock like Cris suggested. Thanks JIM
hey,
i replaced my lg4 this summer to for a 350. i am experiencing the same problems you are, and had gone thru the same problems u said about carbon deposits and such. what happened with mine was that the timing needed to be adjusted, that was the first thing wrong. next came an improperly gapped plug, the wires, the cap and rotor all needed to replaced. that fixed the carbon build up and passed california smog. i have a bog down problem at around 2000 rpms in drive. people say its my carb, the ol q-jet that came with the car. they say it just needs to be adjusted. about replacing your cars ECM and stock q-jet, I would advise that you DO NOT. i know ohois smog check i a little less bitchy as california, but if they do a visual, you will have to present them evidence that your carb is 50-state legal. and im not sure, but i dont think any company makes a carb like that yet. (ive checked so many times)
i had to spend around 500 bux for all the info and labor spent on my car to get it to work properly, and it still havent realized its full potential.
correct me if im wrong guys, but wont removing the ECM mean having to replace all the ECM controlled goodies on your car? and isnt the O2 sensor controlled by the ECM? and if your O2 sensor doesnt work, wont you fail smog?
hope this helps
daniel
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86 camaro cpe(dont laugh)has 92z28 body kit with GTS covers, new red paint and a killer stereo. 2 amps, 8 speakers, disc changer, custom install with subs coming by the end of the summer. sawpped (or in the process of) 305lg4 for brand new 350. TES headers, flowmaster cat back, performer manifold, TCI converter, jet chip, kn with dual snorkel cleaner. and she still passed the sniffer!
"Cal Poly SLO is the shi#"
i replaced my lg4 this summer to for a 350. i am experiencing the same problems you are, and had gone thru the same problems u said about carbon deposits and such. what happened with mine was that the timing needed to be adjusted, that was the first thing wrong. next came an improperly gapped plug, the wires, the cap and rotor all needed to replaced. that fixed the carbon build up and passed california smog. i have a bog down problem at around 2000 rpms in drive. people say its my carb, the ol q-jet that came with the car. they say it just needs to be adjusted. about replacing your cars ECM and stock q-jet, I would advise that you DO NOT. i know ohois smog check i a little less bitchy as california, but if they do a visual, you will have to present them evidence that your carb is 50-state legal. and im not sure, but i dont think any company makes a carb like that yet. (ive checked so many times)
i had to spend around 500 bux for all the info and labor spent on my car to get it to work properly, and it still havent realized its full potential.
correct me if im wrong guys, but wont removing the ECM mean having to replace all the ECM controlled goodies on your car? and isnt the O2 sensor controlled by the ECM? and if your O2 sensor doesnt work, wont you fail smog?
hope this helps
daniel
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86 camaro cpe(dont laugh)has 92z28 body kit with GTS covers, new red paint and a killer stereo. 2 amps, 8 speakers, disc changer, custom install with subs coming by the end of the summer. sawpped (or in the process of) 305lg4 for brand new 350. TES headers, flowmaster cat back, performer manifold, TCI converter, jet chip, kn with dual snorkel cleaner. and she still passed the sniffer!
"Cal Poly SLO is the shi#"
Edelbrock sells a 50 state legal 600 cfm carb model # 1400. As far as I know all their Q jet rebuilts are 50 state legal. As for E check checking things under the hood I'm not worried. Those morons have asked me if my car if front wheel drive the last 2 times I've been down there ( I drive a firebird). All they look for is a cat. on the exaust. That's it, Then they run the test. They know little or nothing about cars or what should or shouldn't go on them.
JIM
JIM
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