Ok, last night I got under the center console and looked for that connector, I just wasn't sure if this was the one or not.
http://www.virtue.nu/transaman/connector.jpg

Also I was under the hood, and spliced this connection
http://www.virtue.nu/transaman/Connector2.jpg

With the first connection re-established I still got no response from the blower motor, I need someone to verify for me that the first connection pictured above is in fact the main power line for the blower motor. Thanks

 

Did you play with the resistors at all? Mine, my friend's, and some other internet people have had them go bad. 'Fact I'm on my 2nd junkyard pair!

[edit] You could always jump your heater motor to +12 to see if the thing spins at all! The "centerish" insulated terminal, not the one on the mounting bolt, is the +12 hookup.


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[This message has been edited by TomP (edited November 14, 2000).]

 

So If I run a line directly from the positive post on my battery to the fan power input, it should start right up?

I have been trouble shooting this thing for a week now. So far it has gotten a new blower motor, and new fan switch. The fuses are good, so thats not the problem. Yesterday I was told it was one of my connectors.

 

I wish RB83L69 would confirm if this is indeed the wire he was refering to.

 

#1: It could be. It's really hard to tell for sure. When you take it apart and look down inside it, is it wasted?

#2: It probably is. As long as the red wire heads over toward the blower high-speed relay, it is the one.

The way the whole circuit works is as follows: ignition-switched battery comes from the dash wiring harness (entirely separate from the HVAC harness - during assembly of the car, the dash harness is already on the dash before it goes in the car, and the A/C harness is on it before it goes in, so the A/C only plugs to the car in those 2 places) to the feed into the control head. In the 3 low speed positions of the switch, battery goes from the switch, to the resistors, to the relay which is in its "rest" position, and on to the motor. In the high speed, battery goes from the switch to the relay; the relay operates; its "operated" contacts connect battery from that big red wire directly to the motor, bypassing the resistors altogether.

So: the only things that singlehandedly will keep the motor from working completely, are the ignition switch; the fuse; the wire going from the fusebox feeding battery to the control head, including that connector; the "mode" switch (AC/Heat/Vent/Defrost) on the control head; the blower speed switch itself; the high-speed relay; and the motor. Of course, you could have multiple problems, such as both a bad resistor and the big red wire feed burned up which would kill the low 3 speeds, and the high speed, respectively; but usually, one defect at a time is all a system will have, so you should approach it logically that way.

You can check for 12V at the #1 connector in your picture with a test light. You can run down the chain with the light and check for juice at each of the spots along the way, and see where it's not getting through.

Good luck!

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

How can I tell if the connectors are "wasted"?

 

Do you have a 12v test light?If so take the two wire connection from your blower motor and see if power is getting to the motor.This is the easyest way to find out.Atleast I think so.
Mine died about two months ago.I could hit the motor and it would come on.Not very fast though.I confirmed I had power going to it with a test light.The higher you set the fan switch the brighter the light will get.
I took the motor off the car and tried to clean it out.But it was already dead .I paid $45 for a new one with a life time warrenty.Well,for as long as I own the car.And it will more then likely be a life time.

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[This message has been edited by Kevin S (edited November 14, 2000).]

 

$45!?! Egad, I paid $19.99 at autozone, and it came with a lifetime warranty!

 

Just disconnect it and look down in there. The stupid aspect of the design is that the plastic housing is actually responsible for the tension holding the connection together; so once there's any resistance there for any reason, the connection produces heat, which makes the plastic flow, which reduces the tension, which increases the connection resistance, which makes the plastic flow, which... you get the point.

Very often the connector housing is burnt completely to ash. It always shows visible signs of heat stress, in every single GM car model they used it in. I've fixed I think 4 of them already just for myself and my immediate family, out of 8 or 9 cars total. Sometimes it also makes the crimp of the connector onto the wire to go bad from all the heat, and the whole stupid thing then burns up in 2 places. If you run the blower on the next-to-the-highest speed alot, it toasts the connector the fastest since that's the circumstance where the most current goes through it. In case I haven't said it enough yet, stupid design.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."