305 or 350 - How to tell
305 or 350 - How to tell
I have been a 3rd gen owner for 9 days. I purchased an 1988 IROC to begin autocrossing it next spring. I thought I was smart by researching IROC's carefully prior to purchasing. I may be mistaken.
When checking out the car that I bought, I made sure that the 8th digit of the VIN was indeed an 8. FYI - the entire VIN is 1G1FP2188JL142496. In addition, I purchased a car fax report to see if there was anything to be concerned about regarding the car- nothing came up on the report.
Now for the potentially bad news:
The car was purchased at an auto aution in July of 1996, titled/registered in March of 1997, placed under a warranty in September of 1997 and again titled/registered in October of 1997. Though I found this odd, I wasn't put off by this information until this evening.
I dropeed to car off to get a professional going over by a mechanic that I trust. He called me this afternoon and asked me to drop by his garage on my way way home from work. I did.
He put the car on the lift and showed me writing on both sides of the engine block. This writing was in yellow paint and says the following: "MAY xx 1997". (The xx was not entirely clear, but obviously numbers (a date). On the passenger side, this paint was behind a bracket that would have prevented this from being done while the engine was in the car.
According to the mechanic, this is the type of markings that salvage yards use to inventory engines. I think I can then conclude that this is a salvage engine and not the original.
This does not necessarily bother me except for one thing: How can I tell if it is a 305 versus 350? I have been told that you cannot tell by looking at the engine in the bay.
How can I find out what motor I have?
When checking out the car that I bought, I made sure that the 8th digit of the VIN was indeed an 8. FYI - the entire VIN is 1G1FP2188JL142496. In addition, I purchased a car fax report to see if there was anything to be concerned about regarding the car- nothing came up on the report.
Now for the potentially bad news:
The car was purchased at an auto aution in July of 1996, titled/registered in March of 1997, placed under a warranty in September of 1997 and again titled/registered in October of 1997. Though I found this odd, I wasn't put off by this information until this evening.
I dropeed to car off to get a professional going over by a mechanic that I trust. He called me this afternoon and asked me to drop by his garage on my way way home from work. I did.
He put the car on the lift and showed me writing on both sides of the engine block. This writing was in yellow paint and says the following: "MAY xx 1997". (The xx was not entirely clear, but obviously numbers (a date). On the passenger side, this paint was behind a bracket that would have prevented this from being done while the engine was in the car.
According to the mechanic, this is the type of markings that salvage yards use to inventory engines. I think I can then conclude that this is a salvage engine and not the original.
This does not necessarily bother me except for one thing: How can I tell if it is a 305 versus 350? I have been told that you cannot tell by looking at the engine in the bay.
How can I find out what motor I have?
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,907
Likes: 4
From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
Have the mechanic show you the 5.7 stamp on the block while you are underneath and get the vin# of the engine. That will confirm if it is a 5.7 and if it is a replacement motor.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 840
Likes: 0
From: Crystal Lake Il
Car: '98 Z
Engine: LS1/6
Transmission: 4l60E
there will be a stamp that says 5.0 or 5.7 on the block behind the distributor on the flange that bolts to the bellhousing. It can be a real bitch to read and even find for that matter if you dont know what youre doing
------------------
91 RS W/carbed 350, Vortec heads, performer rpm, Comp cams Xtreme energy 280 grind. BFG Drag radials. 3.42 posi,Corvette servoed 700r4, ****ty stock converter
13.24@104
------------------
91 RS W/carbed 350, Vortec heads, performer rpm, Comp cams Xtreme energy 280 grind. BFG Drag radials. 3.42 posi,Corvette servoed 700r4, ****ty stock converter
13.24@104
Trending Topics
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,294
Likes: 1
From: was: Palmdale, Ca
Car: was: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: was: L69
Transmission: was: 700-R4
Be cautious, some 350 and 305 blocks do not have the 5.7L nor 5.0L stamped anywhere. Your best and most accurate method of figuring out what size the engine is without pulling the engine is by finding the casting numbers.
On the driver's side at the trans mating flange, there is a 7 digit (ie: 3970014, older blocks) or 8 digit (ie: 14010207, newer blocks) number. This is the block part number and will tell us what the OEM bore of the block is/was. There are also some numbers on the passenger's side flange located behind the alternator (in front of the pass. cylinder head), these numbers (if the block was not decked) will tell you where/on what vehicle the engine came in. Assuming it was not a crate. Now, to fully get the CID, you will have to go in to the engine to find out the actual crank throw of the crankshaft (could have been de/stroked). Also on the sides of the block, you'll see three numbers (ie: 207) stamped, these are the last three numbers from the block part number. Post any casting number you find and we will identify this engine perfectly.
------------------
George P. Lara
1994 Z28 LT1 T56
1984 Z28 High Output
Member: SCCA, SCFB, SC3GFB
On the driver's side at the trans mating flange, there is a 7 digit (ie: 3970014, older blocks) or 8 digit (ie: 14010207, newer blocks) number. This is the block part number and will tell us what the OEM bore of the block is/was. There are also some numbers on the passenger's side flange located behind the alternator (in front of the pass. cylinder head), these numbers (if the block was not decked) will tell you where/on what vehicle the engine came in. Assuming it was not a crate. Now, to fully get the CID, you will have to go in to the engine to find out the actual crank throw of the crankshaft (could have been de/stroked). Also on the sides of the block, you'll see three numbers (ie: 207) stamped, these are the last three numbers from the block part number. Post any casting number you find and we will identify this engine perfectly.

------------------
George P. Lara
1994 Z28 LT1 T56
1984 Z28 High Output
Member: SCCA, SCFB, SC3GFB
On that Note, Can anyone Decode the Stamped #'s On My rearend? I cant seem to Find a place to Do it
# is 22522676GMK8
Has yellow wax pencil on it so its prolly a yard peice.
------------------
85 Z28 - Daily Driver
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
[This message has been edited by Bort62 (edited November 13, 2000).]
# is 22522676GMK8
Has yellow wax pencil on it so its prolly a yard peice.
------------------
85 Z28 - Daily Driver
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
[This message has been edited by Bort62 (edited November 13, 2000).]
I haven't blown this off. The car is still at the garage waiting for parts. I'll definitely get back to you guys.
I think I have found a good Internet home for my IROC (I am already very active at montecarloss.com for my other car.)
Thanks.
I think I have found a good Internet home for my IROC (I am already very active at montecarloss.com for my other car.)
Thanks.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post





