so, i over reved my engine, by 500 rpm..sad huh...5500 rpm and this happens, anyways....i over reved, car started running like crap. and seeing how i had done this before, i pretty much knew what happened.....get home, pop off the valve cover, rocker rm studd got pushed up....simple fix. get a very slightly larger rocker arm stud, stick it in the freezer over night, tap it in the head, problem solved, so i comence to taking out the rocker arm studs....while engine was still hot might i add. stupid me, the second i pull the stud out WOOOOOOSH....i get pressure washed with 220 degree water all over my face. so am i correct in assuming the bos cracked into the coolant passeges, and my heads is toast.

all that work porting and polishing...gah...makes me sick. no there was never smoke out the pipes.

 

uhhhhhh, I belive most, if not all of the rocker stud boss holes go into the coolant passages in the head, so, just put the new stud in

 

whoa...really?? i didnt know that.....i know the first one i pulled out...of the pass side head....#2 cylinder , i took one stud out, nothing happened.....i took the other out WOOOOOSH....so...please *** let it supposed to be in the coolant passage....im not sure if it was intake or exhaust rocker arm stud...it was the one in the very from...exhaust one i think....i just woke up though so i could be wrong...

please please *** let it suposed to be like that

 

The rocer stud goes into the water jacket on the exhaust side on all stock sb heads.

 

really? so i didnt crack the head somehow????

 

Doesn't sound like it from what they're saying. My pull-out studs have survived trips to 6000+ rpm. I have what I guess would be called the old school Z28 valve springs and the XE256 cam (which really isn't that big .447 .454)

 

these are 416 castings by the way.

so i know i need to go up in size ....but what sized rocker arm stud do i need.....i mean ...its gonna be hard to tell the morons at advanced auto what i need...

anyone have a part # or something of the sort....or know what width rcker arm stud i should use???? i dont like the idea of pinning the old studs....i could crack the boss somehow....

so one last time...its normal for the rocker arm stud hole to shoot out 220 degree water when its pressurized? what im asking is, is water suposed to be where it was, and nothing is cracked letting water in under the stud?

sorry for the repete question, i just want to make sure this is normal i dont want to find out the hard way that it is cracked and over heat on the highway 80 miles from home at 4 or something random like that

 

Yes it is normal. The studs go directly into the water jacket.

For a permanent solution, you need to use the correct parts; real screw-in studs, and valve springs that wont' float, are the answer. Short of that, install a rev limiter, to protect the equipment from the operator.

5500 RPM should be no problem whatsoever for a valve train that has some real springs in it instead of worn-out stock ones like it sounds like you have.

 

yeah , see i skipped out on getting the screw in studs cause well, ...thats money spend on stock heads, ...and if i did the studs, i might as well do the springs, ..then if i did springs, i might as well get larger valves, and if i did that i might as well get roller rockers....see where im going? i woulda spent the money needed for some decent aluminum heads.....

the funny thing is, this has happened before on these heads, this is the third rocker arm stud that has been pushed out.....the other one that has the over sized stud didnt get pushed out. then again i had a machine shop press it in and mill the heads for 20 bucks before i ported and polished them. im going to have to put these studs in myself.

so you know what size i need???

 

LMAO!

I agree that you don't want to pour money into stock heads if they aren't the long term answer for you, but didn't you port and polish these? Maybe they are worth at least doing screw in studs and good springs.... I mean a set of studs, poly locks, and a tap can't be over $50.... And it can be done with the heads on if you take the proper precautions.

Just an idea.

 

i should have done all this when i was porting and polishing but i didnt assume that the studs would push out at damn 5500 rpm...thats just pathetic.....anyways....after all the work i did to them i was ready to slap them on, i had gone without a car for like 2 weeks....i should have at the LEAST pinned them, but feared cracking the boss doign so.....so oh well, learn from my mistakes.....as we all know anyways, push in rocker arm studs...Suck. would it be wise to put the taps and coils in myself?? i dunno if that would be the best idea lol....especially getting to the back two rocker arm studs by the stupid air box.. that would be tricky.

im just thankful that i didnt ruin a head.....a good 416 casting ported polished head.....that would be a shame.

 

I have "pinned the studs" on many sets of heads.

The only way you'd crack the stud boss is if you wacked it with a sludge hammer or something.

Seems like you have some paranoid dilusions about head cracks.

Relax,,,,, Take a pill!!! Sorry, had to throw that in... LOL

The stud bosses are very easy to drill. The studs are harder
cause they are case hardened.
Get some small roll pins. get some drill bits that are just a pinch smaller than the roll pin dia. Don't guess, measure the diameter of the roll pins.

Put a old rocker nut on the offending rocker stud to protect the top threads.

Pound the rocker stud back down to the same height as the others.
Drill the stud boss about 2/3rds the way up. There is lots of meat there. they will not crack.

Drill the stud boss right through. The drill bits will get dulled by the hardened surface of the rocker stud. Sharpen them often. Use moderate drill speed. Patience and drill sharpening is the key.
Tap the roll pins into the drilled stud boss. Execessive force is not required.
Total cost will be about $10/15... and your time.

You can do this with the head on the motor if you do some creative housekeeping to keep the metal drill dust from going every where.

 

yeah .....i am paranoid abou those heads for some reason...i dunno why lol....im going to get the studs that are .003 size larger and try that seeing ho wi can get them for a buck a piece as opposed to auto zones 10 bucks a piece....thats insanely expensive...i swear i could tap and put in screw in studs for half that price heh...oh well..

 

Trying to pound a over-sized rocker stud into the hole of a stud boss sounds like a sure fire way to split the stud boss.
The stock rocker stud is already a pressed fit.
Unless your going to re-size the stud hole presisely , you're looking for a disaster. The properly installed oversized stud will not hold up any better than a stock pressed in stud.

You're your own worst enemy. Either pin the studs or install screwin studs. Pick one , do it and forget about it.

 

well see, you freeze the stud for 24 hours that way it contracts the metal.....then when its in, the heat expands and the .003 bit that was contracted expands to normal size evenly distributed not cracking the boss. i mean, i looked at the green lettered screen at autozone and thats the replacement part....even the machine shop said to do that....ill prolly pin it though, so itll never come out....we will see tomarrow....

 

When the stud warms to room temp ::

The fri_cin stud will still be .003" to fri__kin big LOL

let the concept sink in ............

 

ok...heh.....first off, i have had this done before..same head actually..secondly a machine shop specified to do so......thirdly , it is a specified rocker arm stud as the solution.

however i am going to pin them, im just letting you know, the .003 wont crack the boss as it expands... i know because i had it done, and no cracked the boss.

also...just food for thought, how is it going to be room temperature if the head is on the car which in return is outside LOL heh