94-6spd

Heres the deal. I just found an oil leak coming from the one piece Fel-Pro gasket. I don't really think that the gasket is the problem. I really think that the problem is the Summit oil pan that I bought. When I sat it down flat on my work bench it the mounting surface wasn't exactly flat. I beat it down the best I could. When I put it on the block it seemed to be fine. Well now that I have started the engine it pours oil out of the one back corner by the starter. I dropped the oil pan down far enough to put some RTV on the surface but Here is the problem. Oil is still running down on the mounting surfance of the block. What can I use to glue the pan to the gasket even though there is an oily film on the surfaces? I have heard of this stuff that people call Gorilla snot. I don't know the exact name but I hear it's good stuff. Would this work and where do I get it?

89RsPower!

ouch, sorry 2 hear ur in that situation, I am too.. is it one of those silly shiney crome oil pans? thats what I have.. doesnt leak real bad but it still drips and its enough to **** me off.. I plan on replacing it with a stock pan this weekend and then smashing the stupid shiney crome pos with a large hammer. I tried smearing crap around the edges too with mixed results but I've had enough.. time to just fix it the right way with a stock part that fits right, granted its not crome, but its a nice shiney chevy orange

DTL504

iTrader: (1)

I would get the Blue one piece Fel-Pro gasket, it seem to work best. You can get it from your local Autozone Store. Its a Rubber gasket with the washers built into the gasket. I think I paid $23.00 but she does not leak. Also while you have the pan down you might as well change the rear main seal.
David

ede

fel pro one piece, never had one leak. if you know of suspect your oil pan is causeing the problem get another oil pan

94-6spd

The blue one piece gasket is what I'm using. Also, the engine is just built so I shouldn't have to replace the rear main seal. I've not even driven it yet. The oil wasn't just dripping. It was steady streaming. I put it on jack stands and started it up. The trick to making chrome seal is using sand paper on the gasket surface to rough it up a little. The chrome is actually too slick.

DTL504

iTrader: (1)

GOOD LUCK!

94-6spd

DTL504, You have almost the exact combo as me. Heres the one I just put into my car.

406
6" H-beams
balanced bottom end
Total Seal gapless rings
AFR 195's
TPIS ZZX cam
Victor Jr.
Demon 750
Forged flat tops
3000 stall
3.73 gears
700r4

How does yours run? I'm lining mine out right now.

MrDude_1

the way you say streaming makes me think of someplace above the oil pan thats under pressure is leaking.... are you sure its the oil pan?

DTL504

iTrader: (1)

Most likely if you are receiving a steady stream it the rear main seal. I hope that you did not put it in backwards... and that you offset the seal with the block. I doubt that a pan will have a steady stream. I had that problem once, took the engine off the stand to put into the car and as I hoist it up it started a stream. Drop the pan and No rear main seal.

Something to look into, also verify that it is not leaking from the back of the valve cover gasket and pouring down the back of the head, or oil pressure unit is tight on the back side of the block.
Just a few things to check....

94-6spd

Nothing above the pan is wet. I checked the intake, oil pressure sending unit, head gaskets, and the valve covers. It definitely has a rear main seal that I just put in and it is not backwards. I just jacked the engine up to get the pan out but it is not far enough so I am going to get some brake parts cleaner and spray the gasket surfaces and then put a quarter inch bead around it. Thanks for the help guys.

hydric

I dislike one piece, but the oil pan is cheap, a steel one from summit is $30 bucks if that, primier it n paint it any color you want.

thats what I did when I bottomed out with my aluminium pan n didn't want to buy another $140 dollar pan.

Tom91Bird

iTrader: (5)

What I like to do with oil pan gaskets, is to put a little RTV in the corners like usual, the torque it down about half way. Then I'll let it set like that for 12-24 hours to let the RTV dry. Then I torque it down all the way so the RTV actually stays where you put it instead of most of it just sqeezing out.


Tom

94-6spd

Thanks guys, I dropped the oil pan gasket enough to put rtv all around it. I let it sit over night before I started it. So far so good.

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

Sorry to hear about your oil leak, I can certainly relate to that one. I to rebuilt my engine 2 years ago and the same thing happened to me, leak out of the back of the pan. It to was the chrome one from Summit. It's not just the fact that it is chrome, but also it is stamped in China or Taiwan. They just don't fit properly at all and there's nothing you can do to stop the leak as long as you use that pan. I pulled my engine out 4 different times in the past 1-1/2 years trying to stop it. I used different gaskets and manufacturers to no avail. I got it stopped when a mechanic freind of mine told me to go and buy U.S. stamped pan. I bought a Milodon srock replacement pan for my 355 and I used the 1 piece pan gasket from Fel-Pro again and for the first time since put this motor together no pan leak..Price for the pan was 79.99 from Jegs.
Good luck and throw that import pan away..It's good for nothing..
cc 82Z-28

hydric

hmm, I got mine from summit and she aint got one leak at all, I did use the 4 piece seal with some silicone around the edges of the seals, but it doesn't leak at all, and 30 bucks compared to 80 bucks for an OEM standard oil pan, $50 bucks is $50.

94-6spd

I noticed the taiwan thing also. I can't believe summit even sells such crap. For now though it's not leaking. If it does again I'll put a Milodon.