Hi, can you guys tell me all you know about this engine.....

http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?act...id=514&pid=620


-What kind of crank, rods, and pistons?
-Anyone have this shortblock?...If so, what kind of heads/cam are you running?

Thank you.

 

get some other opinions, but cmon, dish pistions. i thought you said that your new motor would leave me in your dust???

 

lol, it will! :lala: Jees, I can't seem to go un-noticed with you can I Mike?

 

It says 1-piece rear main seal cast nodular crank, cast dished pistons. What more do you need to know?

Doesn't say anything about the rods, but most likely they are standard rather than PM.

I don't have it, but have considered using it with my heads, cam, intake, etc. The 11cc dish would give me between 9.5-10:1 CR, depending upon head gasket thickness.

What do you have now?

 

I just have a stock L98 with 201,000 miles. Has run strong ever since I had it, but lately it has been kind of weak, and it has always burned a lot of oil since I've had it. I don't plan on the swap until next summer, but I want to get some stuff planned out now. I just wanted to know more details (if any) about that engine. Like does it come with an oil pump/pan? What are PM connecting rods? I too am assuming they are just cast pieces. Is there a performance/qaulity difference between flat top and dished pistons? Do you think I should just do a re-build so I can get better pistons and rods and get the crank balanced? Either way, I already know what cam I want to use, but haven't yet decided if I should re-build my heads or buy aftermarket ones. Thanks for the help.

 

first, no you cant go unnoticed with me. i have to much time on my hands on sunday. second, dish pistons will lower your compression, yielding less horsepower(therefore my 350 with flat top pistons and afr 190's will kill your l98 with the 2032 cam and stock l98 heads). third, pm stands for powder metallurgy. it is a cheaper way to yeild a product with better tolerances. they are about good quality for a stock rebuild. fouth, the crate engine will have the crank balenced, not sure what you meant by that, because if it wasnt, it would make the engine shake like a ****; unless the application is for external balence, like in a 383. for the weak cam you are going to use, your stock l98 heads with a home port job will flow plenty. i think the cam you are going with is the biggest you can go without reprogramming the ecm. however, even after the rebuild, you will probably want the car dyno tuned anyway to get the perfomance and gas milage you want. make sure that you have all the mods done to the car first so that you only have to pay for a dyno tune once.

 

Still not certain about going with that shortblock so don't get too excited. I want to use the Crane 2032* cam. And that cam, when used with 1.6 rockers is pretty close to the ZZ4.

 

i would just rebuild the one you already have instead of spending all that $$ for the same damn thing.. put the money into machineing and parts for the block you already have, for less money then a new one you can have a vastly superior rebuilt l98 with the parts you actually want vs. stock parts

 

yes, but when i get done with my flat top forged piston 350, it will have a cam bigger than the lt4 hotcam(still not sure what it will be) and afr 190's with a 4 bolt splayed main. im still debating whether to go with the 5140 forged steel crank or it a cast one will hold up. also, im not sure what rods im going with, but since im not stroking it, clearence should not be that big of an issue. tuned right, i should get about 15mpg with a good lockup converter, which will be controlled by me. with your tpi, a good port and polish, the 2032 cam and 1.6 roller rockers will give you more a a bottom end then me. the tpi is known for torque. i think you should rebuild your engine so you can dictate what parts you want to be put in. otherwise, get a zz4 shortblock because that would be a great start. i may still do that because to get a forged crank, 4 bolt splayed, forged pistons, and good rods, the costs will come to about the same, and the zz4 is already put together.

 

Whose thread is this, anyway? The question was about the L98 shortblock for his use, not what you're building to beat whatever he's building. I don't know either one of you two, but let's keep it tech-oriented, on topic, and civil ("grown up" isn't a bad choice, either).

The ZZ4 shortblock is another good choice. It has hypereutectic pistons, by the way, not forged (although GM sometimes refers to them as forged hypereutectic - technically, the process is casting). It's a better overall performance platform, but only the buyer can decide if the extra cost is worth it - because it won't necessarily produce more power.

 

Alright Mike keep talking- AFRs, bigger cam than lt4, forged crank, carbed, 15 mpg with all that?........ And that's fine with me because low end torque is what I'm looking for, for the street. I've already ruled out not going with the ZZ4, I just can't justify getting it when I've already got a 350 (2 bolt though). I guess a re-build is in order then.

Now do shops put all of their own stuff in the engine such as bearings, gaskets, freeze pugs, timing chain etc...or do they usually order a re-build kit?

Would I need to do any computer mods with this cam: 214/220......452/.465? It is the Crane Compucam 2032, which is CA smog legal and is made for computers. If my computer can take this, would it be able to take this cam with 1.6 rockers?...W/ 1.6: .482/.496

Thanks. Oh, and other opinions would be appreciated too!

 

Anyone?

 

i wouldnt worry about me and irocster badmouthing each other.

eric...as far as reprogramming, you can see performance gains on dyno tuning a stock engine with all stock components. with the tpi system, it would be to your benefit to reprogram the chip to get the extra few hp and tq, and better mpg and drivability. also, you have 200,000+ miles on your car, including the tranny. i would be careful that you dont put a good engine in and then the tranny cant keep up. im pretty sure you already thought of that, but just keep it in the background on your budget.

 

That's a very mild cam...I'm sure the computer will have no problems dealing with it. Although like demonchild said, a reprogrammed chip will help. The computer could probably handle a more radical cam than that, even. My 302 has an emissions legal cam that's single pattern...220/220, .498/.498, with 1.6 roller rockers, and the stock Ford computer deals with it just fine without any big operating quirks or check engine lights.

 

Mike- the tranny was rebuilt by the prvious owner already, and I havn't had a single problem with that tranny so I am not worried about it.

Nixon1- What kind of chip are you talking about? A Hypercrap or something custom? The ONLY reason I would put in a Jet or Hypertech chip in is to turn my fan on sooner. Because, with my new engine I want to run a 180 stat, not the 195. So to do that, I will need a new stat, chip, and fan switch (that goes in the block for secondary fan).

What else would I need on a chip besides the different fan temps?

 

cant the fuel curves be readjusted with a new chip?

 

Yeah, I don't mean one of those stupid commercially available chips. Besides, those are tuned for stock engines. If your car isn't stock, the chip isn't meant for you. I'm talking a dyno-tune and chip burning session. Though it'll cost you I'm sure...I've heard of the sessions, with chip, going for around $400+.

Timing curves can be adjusted on the chip, and I'm sure demon's right too about the fuel curves. It's like basically re-teaching the computer what it should do with the motor for the most power, since with every modification, the air/fuel and timing requirements of an engine can change. And what's best for a stock engine with exhaust and intake most likely won't be what's best for a headed, cammed engine.

 

Ouch! $400? Although it would be pretty cool to get the car dynoed and see what kind or power she's putting out. Isn't there someone in So Cal (and on these boards) that could hook his laptop up to your diagnostic port and custom burn a chip? I forget who he is.

 

whoa you forget fast. keving and don do it proffessionally and they already said they would hook you up.

 

Oh yeah, fast chip, I'll have to look into them

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Irocster
<b>Alright Mike keep talking- AFRs, bigger cam than lt4, forged crank, carbed, 15 mpg with all that?........ </b>


just think if he had a Stealthram he could net 28-30 MPH highway...


ask me how i know

Stealthram, AFR195, Solid flat tappet motor making 440 RWHP and pushing 28MPG highway. not mine, but a close match. i only get 27 MPG highway but that was when i had a bent valve, a clogged injector, and a mismatched drivetrain.

 

You're complaining you get 27mpg? LOL. Just think if you averaging 11 street like me, and that's TPI.

 

if im not mistaken you live in florida. they wont allow the super ram in california, otherwise i would already have on. i love how they look sitting on top of the engine. kinda scares the person you will be racing.

 

I get 14 city with a slight leaning out in the upper rpms. But boy does she stink at idle with no cats and dumped mufflers.

 

thats funny, i have TPI too.

<b>I get 14 city with a slight leaning out in the upper rpms. But boy does she stink at idle with no cats and dumped mufflers.</b>

Why? too rich? too lean? if your mixture is right... it shouldnt smell very bad at all.


In fact with my commander 950 adjusting fuel, i kept smelling a rich stink from the exhaust, even though the O2 was reading lean.

I just assumed it was because my exhaust duals dump right in front of the back tire, below the window.

WRONG. it was running lean enough to cause my ignition a misfire, which was the rich stink i was smelling..

now that i have an MSD6BTM and a good coil, it doesnt missfire anymore when lean, and doesnt smell like anything at all in fact...

 

Wow...thanks for the tip. Yeah, it's a STOCK Ford fuel delivery system, powering a 302 with heads, a cam, roller rockers, intake, and full exhaust. So it'll stink if it's lean too? It reeks of gas at idle and whenever I get on it and let off abruptly. Wants to backfire when I do that too. Idle is decent but it occasionally surges or stumbles slightly. That's with ALL new ignition stuff and a rebuilt distributor, not to mention more sensors than I can count. The engine feels a little rough up top too, like it doesn't have enough fuel to support the 14 degrees of base timing.
Plugs look decent, just a tad pale. No code from the O2's...but I figure it DEFINITELY needs more fuel. I bought an AFPR today and I'm gonna up it about 10 psi and see what happens.

 

Would my bad fuel economy be due to the fact that I have 200,000+ miles on her, or do I have something wrong that's easy to fix? I don't want to dump too much money into this engine because I'm changing it out next summer. It's got a fresh tune-up, regular oil changes, recently replaced IAC valve, and O2 sensor. What else could it be? Also, the car "surges" a little at idle (when up to temp) and sometimes wants to stall when starting (when cold). Other than starting, and idle, the engine runs strong. Again, I'm getting about 11 city....don't know about highway though.

 

How's your ignition coil? Got a good strong spark? There's multiple possibilities for any problem. Distributor, like the pickup coil and gear. EGR valve helps mileage and smoothness quite a bit too. Maybe TPS sensor too? Throw any codes with the stall? Is it a TPI or a TBI? Maybe MAF if it's an MAF engine...

 

could be ANYTHING. but you can narrow it down by checking a few things.

for one how do the plugs looks? black or white or tan?

then check you EGR valve... if its sticking open then it will cause rough idle, surging, stalling, and poor fuel economy.

could be a clogged injector too.. after checking ALL your plugs if one is whiter than the othersyou know thats a likelly problem,

OR if one is whiter it could be due to a vacuum leak,

and if you have a vacuumleak somwhere and you have a MAF setup then your going to have stalling and all sorts of problems.

so do you have a MAF sensor?

and from there check your transmission's lockup, if it doesnt lockup on the highway you will have poor fuel economy and tear up the tranny..

also if your timing is not advancing properly for cruising on the highway your fuel economy will REALLY SUCK. timing advance while cruising is a huge factory for fuel economy. check that out for sure...


and add a million other things to the list. do a little searching on BAD FUEL ECONOMY and POOR MPG and the like and see what you dig up.

 

I have TPI, and MAF sensor. All plugs were changed again a month ago, they were all fouled really bad. My mechanic then put those extenders on the plugs. Then he pulled a few last week and they were all clean. So I know I basically need a re-build, but for now, I want to find the bad fuel economy problem. What do you think I should be getting on the street? A while back I had the EGR all cleaned out and that cured the really bad, dangerous surging at idle. Not sure what to look for with the tranny, it was re-built before I got the car, and it shifts fine, and have no problem with it. When the IAC thing was replaced, I had the TB totally cleaned out. So I gues I can narrow it down to the MAF sensor or relay, TPS sensor, or bad injector....none of which I know how to check for.