Need your guys help! A couple of days ago, I collected some Diacom data under normal driving and WOT conditions. When I returned home I shut the car off, then went to start it again and it wouldn't fire. The engine cranks over, but won't start!
So, I began my trouble shooting. Checked for spark, and I have it from the coil and to the plugs. Checked for fuel pressure and I have it. I also replaced the ignition module, and the pick up coil checks out fine. Checked to see if the injectors are firing and they are not!
When I crank the engine, I have plenty of spark but no fuel.
I tried re-seating the memcal and even tried a different one and still, the car won't start.

Does anyone have any ideas what could be wrong?

 

Have you checked the injector fuses?

Ben

 

Hi,
I am having a similiar problem although it started out diferently. It stalled at a readlight and i limped back home. After checking plugs and all it won't start for the life of it. Just cranks over.

BTW: I had just passed the smog test and noticed the techy writing:
1.) Ignition timing is 6 degrees BTDC: Would you know what it means (and what does BTDC stand for)

2.) changed plugs for 3, 5 and 7


Thanks Sean

 

6* btdc is before top dead center, also known as advanced. That is fine. Have you checked your coil and ignition module. Are you getting spark or fuel? Its kind of hard to tell, but your problem kind of sounds like a ignition module.

Ben

 

Injector fuses? I checked the ECM fuse and pretty much every fuse in the fuse box (it's hard to tell what is what anymore b/c the labeling is wearing off) - so, all fuses in the fusebox checked out fine. Where are the injector fuses?

Iroczed: I agree with Momar, check to see of you have spark and let us know the result and we'll go from there.

 

I believe that there are 2 injector fuses in the fuse box. I dont know if there are any in line fuses. If all of the fuses in the box are fine that probably isnt the problem.

Have you checked for engine codes? I would check w/ the paper clip meathod that way you can see if it is giving you code 12. If it is not your ecm may be bad.

You say the injectors are not firing? How did you check this?

Ben

 

Thanks for your input. Well, I put a jumper between the injector terminals and the injector connector, and measured the voltage or lack thereof with a voltmeter when I had someone crank the engine. You should get a voltage response when the injectors fire and I was getting nothing.

But yea, I will check the codes and let you know what happens either later tonight or tomorrow.
Thanks for your help.

 

Could be fuel pump related. Check the fuel pump fuse and the oil pressure fuse located in the front area of motor compartment on inner fender. It's worth a shot. Something has shut-off the injectors as a precaution and maybe one of those two circuits are doing that? If so, you'll be back to dusting crops in no time!

Good luck!

 

Thanks Mike! When I get my crop-duster up and running again, I am going to learn ya, what racings all about! LOL

 

Better bring a few cans of oil with ya, you're gonna need it !

LOL, just messing with ya! Let me know what you find. I'm still betting it's the oil pressure switch.

Mike

 

there is allways power to the injectors in run, the ecm only grounds the injectors you need to check for voltage on one side of the inj. plug. to ground, a noid light is how you check for a working singnal I would check for fuel psi

 

I was spoke with one of the good people at Orielly's auto parts and he suggested that I spray some starting fluid in the intake to make sure that I have a fuel delivery problem and not spark. So, I did that, the car fired up and sputtered for about 10 seconds and then died. Hmmmmm, I thought to myself that was a little longer than expected. So, I started it again and it ran, began to search for an idle. It's like a gave it a little jump-start so to speak. Very wierd???
Prior to this, I checked the ecm and it checked out fine, code 12.
Nevertheless, I am stoked that it's running again!

VoooooooDoooooooo (the car has been GodSmacked!)

 

my 89 formula350 does that it will start and run if I shut it off then restart it will just crank over and over. then if I shoot some starting fluid in the trottlebody it will start and run just fine. cannot figure it out. has new injectors, fuel pump and adj. fpr and new ecm and dist module,oil pressure sender unit. it has spark and holds fuel pressure. didn't know if maybe the coil pickup ? but was told that if it was pickup then would not run at all. has MSD 6AL and coil but the box isn't getting hot. and doesn't matter if engine is hot or cold. any help?

 

Almost similiar to my issue. Here is my update.

Thanks a lot to all for your help. I ended up taking it back to the shop who did the smog.
It turned out to be a burnt fuel pump. My odometer says 58+k miles but i am guessing it's 158+k miles, and the OEM pump is burnt out.
They quoted me a price of $500 for labour, pump and strenum and i said go ahead. Don't have the knowhow to drop the rear shabang and get the tank to get to the pump.
Is that a fair deal!!

Before i forget. The pump and strenum they put in is AirTex Model E3210 and AirTex FS30 respectively. The shop would'nt wait for me to get a pump of my choice. Is this a good brand. I would rather have gotten in a AC Delco, Walbro or some other good brand I have read in this forum.

The old pump is an OEM pump, part #:
6442646 1752-2 286. Under the numbers the letters AC appears ( it may be AC Delco). I am going to check the pump to see how voltage drop is there.
The filter is FRAM G3727 G201.


I also have a 03 BMW Zed4 and had a E36 328i and a E46 325ci. Now both of my previous bimmers had a neat way to access the intank pump and senders.
To unclip rear seat and two fuel access covers are seen. To unbolt access cover and the supply, return lines, pump plug and sender plug are seen. The right side has a sender and pump plug whereas the left access has only the sender plug. To unplug the sender and pump plugs.
There is then a vapor seal on each of the access holes to prevent fuel vapours from escaping. The vapour seal is screwed onto each of the two holes. There is a special BMW tool to unscrew the vapour seals. Once they are out of the way the pump and sender can be pulled out from the right access hole.
The entire operation of replacing the pump with the special tool would take me about 45 minutes.
I wish GM had designed this into the Iroc.

Now some food for thought. I have read about cutting a hole on the rear pan to gain access. I think if done right it will not affect structural rigidity. The bimmer has the two access holes right on the unibody pan, i.e. under the passenger seat. To retain the structural rigidity, they had strengthened the two slightly oval shaped holes, doubling the sheet metal around the circumference.

The strength of a sheet metal with punched holes is more than continous metal. This is simliar in concept to a hollow tube of same material being stronger than a solid rod. A consequence of greater elasticity or increase in modulus of elasticity.
I think a circular or oval hole with strengthened circumference will retain if not strengthen the rigidity of the floor pan and thus a access hole can be formed for the Iroc as well.
I will do some more research on this and post my findings.

Yet again thanks and yes this is a fun car to drive