Need advice on motor rebuild
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 326
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From: Oklahoma City, OK
Need advice on motor rebuild
I have an 88 GTA with the 350 TPI motor. It has 115K on it. It runs pretty good, but it burns about three quarts of oil every 1,000 miles or so. It's not leaking. It also smokes a little at startup. I was thinking about pulling the motor out and just doing a rebuild next spring to freshen it up and for some peace of mind. I don't want to do anything fancy to it, just to rebuild it back stock the way it is. It's my daily driver, but I have other cars to drive. I want to replace the timing chain for sure. Who makes a good rebuild kit for what I'm wanting to do? I want all new gaskets, rod bearings, and I'll probably get the heads done so the valves seal a little better. Any info or advice you guys have would be great. Where can I get a good kit online or a local store? Thanks! Matt
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Summit, Jegs, PAW, Competition Products, NAPA - most any place that's been around a few years can handle it for you.
It's best to know whether you need to bore the cylinders to clean it up before you order parts. Unfortunately, the only way to do that is to at least have the heads off. Your oil consumption may all be due to valve seals, or valve seals and intake gaskets, or a combination including rings. Taking it apart is the only real way to know.
It isn't unusual for machine shops to be able to get pretty good deals on parts, too. You might talk to a few and see how they compare.
Unless you want to upgrade, you shouldn't need to replace the cam. So, don't go for any of these rebuild kits that include a replacement cam (or insist on credit for deleting the cam from the kit).
For the heads, go for positive-sealing types that require the valve guide to be machined. Work much, much better than anything else out there.
It's best to know whether you need to bore the cylinders to clean it up before you order parts. Unfortunately, the only way to do that is to at least have the heads off. Your oil consumption may all be due to valve seals, or valve seals and intake gaskets, or a combination including rings. Taking it apart is the only real way to know.
It isn't unusual for machine shops to be able to get pretty good deals on parts, too. You might talk to a few and see how they compare.
Unless you want to upgrade, you shouldn't need to replace the cam. So, don't go for any of these rebuild kits that include a replacement cam (or insist on credit for deleting the cam from the kit).
For the heads, go for positive-sealing types that require the valve guide to be machined. Work much, much better than anything else out there.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally posted by KC10Chief
Friends don't let friends build a 305
Friends don't let friends build a 305
(Well, I didn't touch the shortblock, at least...)
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Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,811
Likes: 1
From: Jackson County
there isn't really such thing as rebuild kit. you tell them what you need and they put the parts in a box. you need to do some measureing to see what you need. i'd stick with brand name parts, clevite, fm, fel pro, speed pro, melling, cloyes. depending on shipping and all it may be cheaper to buy locally 
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