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Broken bolt take a look....

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Old Oct 20, 2003 | 10:15 PM
  #1  
DANIELEK's Avatar
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From: Alberta
Car: Red Rooster
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: M5
Broken bolt take a look....

Hi Guys.

I have been changing the oil and while underneath I discovered a broken bolt size 18mm.(checked other side)

The bolt's head is gone and the rest of the bolt is loose inside but it won't come out.

It look like it joints the suspension with the frame or something like that. There are two bolts per side and the other is still in place but I can see that there has been some movement there.

There is no hole or access to see where it is screwed in as far as i know.

Please help.
Attached Thumbnails Broken bolt take a look....-broken-bolt-1.jpg  
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Old Oct 20, 2003 | 11:02 PM
  #2  
88TAJeff's Avatar
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From: Sidney, B.C., Canada
Car: 88 T/A
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Isn't that one of the bolts that hold the K-member to the frame?
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Old Oct 20, 2003 | 11:12 PM
  #3  
DANIELEK's Avatar
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From: Alberta
Car: Red Rooster
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: M5
I think that is the one. It is defeniately connected to the frame.

Any suggestions anybody???
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Old Oct 21, 2003 | 12:12 AM
  #4  
RWB____s's Avatar
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From: Mo.
Car: Z/28
Engine: 355
Transmission: Turbo 400
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Well you are probably not goin to like my input. That bolt does secure your K member to the front sub frame, You have 4 bolts total(2 each side),also I believe that there are 2 alignment pins
(1 each side) to keep the assembly aligned while the bolts hold everything together. Even with the pins, the assembly does flex and move around alittle thus elongating the holes and making everything sloppy when you drive the car.
The stock front K-member is NOT one of the strong points of 3rd gen cars.
Ok Your options are drop the K-member to replace the broken bolt if you cant get the bolt out any other way. (an unbelievable amount of work for just one bolt) or do what I did years ago
take the car to a chassis shop and have the frame alignment checked and straightened as needed then have the K-member welded to the front subframe tying everything together while everything is aligned. It will be alot stronger that way and you wont have to worry about the bolts coming loose. The down side of this is you will NOT be able to upgrade to a tubular K-member in the future if you go this route.
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Old Oct 21, 2003 | 05:37 AM
  #5  
Vader's Avatar
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...unless you grind the weld out later. Just make sure to take the usual precautions when welding on the vehicle.
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Old Oct 21, 2003 | 05:47 AM
  #6  
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From: fredericksburg, va
Car: 85 ta ws6 KITT
Engine: Lb9
Transmission: th350
doesn't someone also make a lightweight tubular k-member?
might as well replace it.
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Old Oct 21, 2003 | 08:29 AM
  #7  
DANIELEK's Avatar
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From: Alberta
Car: Red Rooster
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: M5
I knew that this didn't look too good.

The car started to pull to the right side when I take the hands of the wheel and maybe that has something to do with it.


I will be parking the car for winter and then I will decide what the best option is.

Welding sound like it is a good idead to me unless it is ILLEGALL.

Now, why would that bolt be loose inside like that?

I realy appreciate your help.
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Old Mar 23, 2004 | 10:09 PM
  #8  
DANIELEK's Avatar
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From: Alberta
Car: Red Rooster
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: M5
Does anybody know if this would affect my front wheel alignment at all???
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