what can I do to pass my emissions? I passed on everything except hydro carbons, but I didnt have my smog pump hooked up then, but I do have it hooked up now and I have to take another emissions test before 2001.

here is what I was thinking about doing:
1 taking off my custom intake and putting my old stock system with a new paper air filter back in.
2 take my under drive pulleys off and put mt stock pulleys back on( May reduce smog pump effeciancy?)
3 may timing is advanced, so should I retard it back to stock, or take it even further below stock timing level?
4 new PVC
5 change oil
6 new spark plugs and do a tune up if needed.

any suggestions?

 

I'd say do a good tune up, oil change, PCV, and new air filter before any emissions test. Do they charge you for a retest after you fail? or do they give you one free, or how does it work where you are from?

 

Your smog pump HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH YOU FAILING THE TEST. The smog pump is only for COLD STARTUPS, which is never tested for.

Have you ever replaced the cat? That probably is one of the bigest offenders. But if yoou do not fell like replacing it, oh well then just get some dry gas.

Get yourself about ten bottles of dry gas (about .69 cents a bottle), run your fuel to less than a quarter tank and dump in the dry gas and you will PASS. Alcohol is clean burning and burns fast and produces no hydros. I've done this on vehicles that were blowing smoke, barely running, you will pass. Also, make sure your car is running hot 240+ degrees.

 

I keep seeing this

"The smog pump is only for COLD STARTUPS, "

I personally see cars fail due to AIR injection not working correctly.(see sig.) All cars work differently as far as when the AIR sytsem engages, most cycle the AIR to the converter after warmup, this helps keep the cat lit off so it works correctly.

I'm not saying a car (running good) with no air injection won't pass smog, I'm saying the air system does work past warmup.

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

GO #3

[This message has been edited by Engineboy (edited December 09, 2000).]

[This message has been edited by Engineboy (edited December 09, 2000).]

 

The smog pump is NOT only for cold startups. After reaching the proper temps, the diverter solenoid switches the smog pump over to pumping air into the CAT, via the air tube. Excessive HC's can be caused by poor bad ignition parts, vacuum leaks, running rich, lean misfire, and low compression.

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L

 

MikeS, they actually put a sniffer on the tail pipe and run the car on a dyno. You get three times to pass then you have to pay a fine or show you paid a certain amount of money to make the car pass emissions.

What is dry gas BTW? where can you get it?

 

The air injection system is only for cold start ups on 2.8/3.1 ohv GM engines, there is no air being diverted into the cat on these engines, just like the egr functions opposite on the 2.8/3.1 compared to the 5.0/5.7.

You can get dry gas at any auto parts store.
Dry Gas will make you pass, if you dont (and its a long shot that you will fail with dry gas) change your catalytic converter. We have the same test in New Jersey. The car operates at an RPM on the dyno that will reveal a clogged cat, especially if the cat has some miles on it. The only cars I have seen fail in this state was due to an old or damaged cat.

 

At least you get three tries to pass. We have the same test here in ATL but only get one free retest. Oh yeah, you can spend $600 and if that doesn't fix it, you get a waiver here. But as for your problem...with three tries I would go for the little fixes first.