Car won't start *urgent* read archives help
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Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Car won't start *urgent* read archives help
My car won't start.
1992 Firebird L03/700r4
The battery is brand new, and fully charged (all accessories work fine, we even tried to jump it)
So this rules out the battery itself, and the alternator.
The starter does NOT make a clicking noise, the only noise is the accessories turning on.
I don't know if it's the starter, the VATS key/system, or a loose connection.
I was thinking about buying a multimeter to test connections, but I have no ride.
What would the symptoms be if it was VATS? would it crank?
And you can't push-start an automatic, can you? lmao
What should I check for to identify my problem? My car is 5 miles away and I'd like to get all of the information I need before I get towed. Thank you for all of your help.
1992 Firebird L03/700r4
The battery is brand new, and fully charged (all accessories work fine, we even tried to jump it)
So this rules out the battery itself, and the alternator.
The starter does NOT make a clicking noise, the only noise is the accessories turning on.
I don't know if it's the starter, the VATS key/system, or a loose connection.
I was thinking about buying a multimeter to test connections, but I have no ride.
What would the symptoms be if it was VATS? would it crank?
And you can't push-start an automatic, can you? lmao
What should I check for to identify my problem? My car is 5 miles away and I'd like to get all of the information I need before I get towed. Thank you for all of your help.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
what is the proper way to test a starter without removing it from the car? I read up more and I hear there is a wire that will burn up if it gets too much juice, much like a fuse only primative. any other suggestions on what could be my problem? I hope it's not a starter, because I have no room here at college and I sure as hell don't want to take it to a shop!!!
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
From: Sidney, B.C., Canada
Car: 88 T/A
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
I would bet on it being the starter. Check your connections at the battery just to make sure,though, and make sure they are spotless clean. FYI, I had my starter get jammed in the ring gear, and killed the battery. A friend tried to jump it, and the cables melted and caught fire, but never burned a fuse or link. Go figure.
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 11
From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
It could be one of two possible things.
1. The starter relay (located in left kick panel) is shot or.
2. you have a problem with the VATS. (might be a blown fuse for the VATS).
To check to see if you are getting a code from the pellet in your key, disconnect the two wires (either two white wires with orange wrap or two yellow wires with a black wrap) at the connector. Put your key in the ignition lock cylinder and leave it in the off position. Using a multimeter set to OHMs, touch the probes to the terminals of the two wires coming from the steering column. You should get a reading of somewhere between 380 to 11800 OHMs depending on the code in your key. If you do not get a reading, either the key is worn, the contacts in the lock cylinder are worn, or one of the wires is broken inside the column. Hope this helps!!!!!!!
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!
1. The starter relay (located in left kick panel) is shot or.
2. you have a problem with the VATS. (might be a blown fuse for the VATS).
To check to see if you are getting a code from the pellet in your key, disconnect the two wires (either two white wires with orange wrap or two yellow wires with a black wrap) at the connector. Put your key in the ignition lock cylinder and leave it in the off position. Using a multimeter set to OHMs, touch the probes to the terminals of the two wires coming from the steering column. You should get a reading of somewhere between 380 to 11800 OHMs depending on the code in your key. If you do not get a reading, either the key is worn, the contacts in the lock cylinder are worn, or one of the wires is broken inside the column. Hope this helps!!!!!!!
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!
if i remember correctly if it was the vats system it would flash or something when u fist put the key in to place.
more than anything it sounds like a starter. try hitting it with a pole or tapping it with a hammer to too hard some times it helps when someone is tring to turn it when u hit it
if that dont work try to applly direct power to the small terminal on the starter when it is in on position with the key and it should turn over and if it starts check for fuses messed up wires check the resistance of the wire to the fuse box to the one on the starter, if it does turn i would say u need a starter because it should turn nomatter what when u do that and make sure first u have power to the main big post on the starter and if not check for fusable links. if it does turn and does not start when you do that might be vats or something else like the ign switch or something not switching it. i guess thinking about it you could also test if power is being sent to the solenoid when the key is turn to start.
dont know just a few things that came to mind before i pass out good luck.
more than anything it sounds like a starter. try hitting it with a pole or tapping it with a hammer to too hard some times it helps when someone is tring to turn it when u hit it
if that dont work try to applly direct power to the small terminal on the starter when it is in on position with the key and it should turn over and if it starts check for fuses messed up wires check the resistance of the wire to the fuse box to the one on the starter, if it does turn i would say u need a starter because it should turn nomatter what when u do that and make sure first u have power to the main big post on the starter and if not check for fusable links. if it does turn and does not start when you do that might be vats or something else like the ign switch or something not switching it. i guess thinking about it you could also test if power is being sent to the solenoid when the key is turn to start. dont know just a few things that came to mind before i pass out good luck.
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 499
Likes: 12
From: Oak Harbor, WA
Car: 1990 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70
I recently had the same dilemma except mine was intermittent. 50% of the time it would start. When it wouldn't start, the security light flashed in the dash. Turned out to be a broken wire in the column running from the lock cylinder to the VATS relay. Several hundred later, the dealership had me back on the road. Wish I would have known how to test VATS back then. My experience sounds different than yours and should steer you towards the starter..... Good luck.
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
I think it's the starter.
The car sat for 24 hours before I tried it again.
I tried seeing if it was VATS, and the security light didnt even come on.
I checked all fuses under the dash, and they're all fine.
The only thing I didn't do was try to jump the starter manually, because it was raining, dark, and hard to reach.
So I just bought a new starter
I gotta get towed to the campus parking lot so I can replace that SOB.
The car sat for 24 hours before I tried it again.
I tried seeing if it was VATS, and the security light didnt even come on.
I checked all fuses under the dash, and they're all fine.
The only thing I didn't do was try to jump the starter manually, because it was raining, dark, and hard to reach.
So I just bought a new starter
I gotta get towed to the campus parking lot so I can replace that SOB.
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