Valve spring install q's with pics
Valve spring install q's with pics
Couple of easy questions. What is the little rubber thing on the valve that the blue arrow is pointing to? Does it matter where this thing is on the valve? Cause I diddent get replacement ones witht he hotcam kit.
Also where the red arrow is pointing. I have to get that out correct, that is the spring shim correct?
Aslo take a look at my second picture. This is one of my old springs compared to one of the new ones, the new spring has a bigger diameter but the old one is "double". What I mean is that there is a second spring sort of inside the main spring. Now is thistype of spring typically better? Cause Id hate to replace better springs with worse ones. Now I dont know the specs on the old springs but the new ones are the lt4 hotcam ones.
Question is, if I took the old springs to a machine shop would they be able to tell me if they could handle the new lift (.525)? What woudl I have to bring them, the cam card?
Also where the red arrow is pointing. I have to get that out correct, that is the spring shim correct?
Aslo take a look at my second picture. This is one of my old springs compared to one of the new ones, the new spring has a bigger diameter but the old one is "double". What I mean is that there is a second spring sort of inside the main spring. Now is thistype of spring typically better? Cause Id hate to replace better springs with worse ones. Now I dont know the specs on the old springs but the new ones are the lt4 hotcam ones.
Question is, if I took the old springs to a machine shop would they be able to tell me if they could handle the new lift (.525)? What woudl I have to bring them, the cam card?
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 537
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Car: 87 Iroc Z28
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: T56
The little rubber things that your blue arrow points to is the valve seal. I think they can be on in any direction just as long as they dont interfeir with the spring. Just to be safe I would put them all facing the same direction, thats just me I like things too look good even if you dont see them. As far as replacing them depending on the milage on the motor it would be a good idea. If you had any blue smoke in your exhaust at start up that means the seals are going bad. The arent that expensive so its probably a good idea to get new ones.
As far as the springs go I dont know which is better but I would deffinatly use the ones that go with the cam.
Hope that helps a little
Kevin
As far as the springs go I dont know which is better but I would deffinatly use the ones that go with the cam.
Hope that helps a little
Kevin
Supreme Member

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,009
Likes: 5
From: Pitman, NJ
Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
Yes the rubber thing is the valve seals they just pull off (may need to use some force).
The red thing is just the spring pocket ...you MUST machine the heads so they accept the bigger springs. If you drop in the bigger springs without enlarging the pockets BAD things will happen.
Stock springs = 1.22" (I believe?)
LT4 springs = 1.32"
The red thing is just the spring pocket ...you MUST machine the heads so they accept the bigger springs. If you drop in the bigger springs without enlarging the pockets BAD things will happen.
Stock springs = 1.22" (I believe?)
LT4 springs = 1.32"
The engine has ~25 K on it, no blue smoke or anything, it runs perfect.
They arent stock heads (or springs I beleive) though. They are 76 cc World SR iron heads. Im a take the springs into the shop and see what they say about keeping them as I really dont want to take the heads off . Though I doubt they will work, the old cam had a lift of about .435/.435 I remember correctly.
They arent stock heads (or springs I beleive) though. They are 76 cc World SR iron heads. Im a take the springs into the shop and see what they say about keeping them as I really dont want to take the heads off . Though I doubt they will work, the old cam had a lift of about .435/.435 I remember correctly.
the lagrger springs won't fit your heads, world s/r heads are pretty much stock heads. you need the spring pocket enlarged to accept the new spring. there isn't any question as to what spring to use, trash the factory parts, rotators and retainers included. the 2 piece spring isn't a better spring and the inner piece doesn't do much but add mass to the assembly
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I'll assume that you don't want to remove the heads to cut the spring pockets.
Here is a complete kit from Summit
Summit Racing
The pic has the retainer on the wrong end, but you get the idea.
On your cam card, it should call out for a recommend open and close valve spring pressure. So try to go by those specs.
****NOTE*****
This kit is for 0.500 max lift but I'm betting that you could get away with using it.
Also with a bigger cam, it is best to check for piston to valve clearance and degree the cam in.
You also need to determine at what lift does the coil bind occur and valve retainer to valve guide clearance.
Here is a complete kit from Summit
Summit Racing
The pic has the retainer on the wrong end, but you get the idea.
On your cam card, it should call out for a recommend open and close valve spring pressure. So try to go by those specs.
****NOTE*****
This kit is for 0.500 max lift but I'm betting that you could get away with using it.
Also with a bigger cam, it is best to check for piston to valve clearance and degree the cam in.
You also need to determine at what lift does the coil bind occur and valve retainer to valve guide clearance.
Last edited by a73camaro; Oct 31, 2003 at 01:18 PM.
Another option.
270-99846-16
H-11 Valve Springs
Spring Diameter
Outer: 1.255''
Inner: .870'' (not including flat damper thickness)
Damper: yes
Recommended Camshaft Application: Hydraulic or Mechanical
Seat Pressure at Installed Height: 115# @ 1.750''
Open Pressure and Height: 350# @ 1.175''
Coil Bind: 1.100''
Average Spring Rate: 409#/in.
Jegs
Retainers are not included, but you can use your old ones.
270-99846-16
H-11 Valve Springs
Spring Diameter
Outer: 1.255''
Inner: .870'' (not including flat damper thickness)
Damper: yes
Recommended Camshaft Application: Hydraulic or Mechanical
Seat Pressure at Installed Height: 115# @ 1.750''
Open Pressure and Height: 350# @ 1.175''
Coil Bind: 1.100''
Average Spring Rate: 409#/in.
Jegs
Retainers are not included, but you can use your old ones.
Originally posted by a73camaro
I'll assume that you don't want to remove the heads to cut the spring pockets.
Here is a complete kit from Summit
Summit Racing
The pic has the retainer on the wrong end, but you get the idea.
On your cam card, it should call out for a recommend open and close valve spring pressure. So try to go by those specs.
****NOTE*****
This kit is for 0.500 max lift but I'm betting that you could get away with using it.
Also with a bigger cam, it is best to check for piston to valve clearance and degree the cam in.
You also need to determine at what lift does the coil bind occur and valve retainer to valve guide clearance.
I'll assume that you don't want to remove the heads to cut the spring pockets.
Here is a complete kit from Summit
Summit Racing
The pic has the retainer on the wrong end, but you get the idea.
On your cam card, it should call out for a recommend open and close valve spring pressure. So try to go by those specs.
****NOTE*****
This kit is for 0.500 max lift but I'm betting that you could get away with using it.
Also with a bigger cam, it is best to check for piston to valve clearance and degree the cam in.
You also need to determine at what lift does the coil bind occur and valve retainer to valve guide clearance.
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