ok guys. i got a NEW optima battery. (red top) i put a NEW alternator in. i still am running off of pure battery. the alt is not charging the battery. (i returned the new alt after cleaning it up LOL) and put the old one back on. still running about 12 volts with a fully charged battery...then it runs down past ten...till it wont start anymore. takes about an hour of driving. it seems real simple but i dont know what it is. im getting tired of charging the battery every night just to go to work the next day. please help. we tested the alt on the counter at the autoparts store it runs at 14. tested it on the car...it says no diode pulse or something. (the other day i shorted out a switch to the fan that i installed, it blew a fusible link down where the positives connect together (by the battery)) could that have something to do with it??? help please. i havent replaced the fusible link yet. thanks guys
RIck

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Rick
90 Camaro RS 305 TBI
400 small block, Hooker 1 3/4 LTs, Random Tech Cat, Hooker aero chamber cat back on the way!!
TH700-R4 with Trans-Go shift kit (corvette servo here...but not installed yet)
MacEwen Motorsports White Gauge Overlays
14" K&N X-Stream Open Element
GTS Headlight and Taillight covers
5% Limo Tint all around
Classic White Chevy Bowtie sticker on rear window
http://www.geocities.com/esvalenz

Man if my camaro were a rice-rocket all those mods would give me what...easily 50-60 hp!!!

"Just because I've done it, doesn't mean I knew what I was doing!" - Me

 

Bah! Trying to trouble shoot electric in a forum is like asking for medical advice. My arm hurts when I do this.

Change the fusible link. It's there for a reason.

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Stephen's racing page

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block buildup now in progress for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

i put a peice of wire there until i get the fusible link...so far no good. i can get the fan to run if i put a peice of wire between pos and neg terminals on the relay HARNESS (relay must be bad)or something....only when i put the wire in place of the fusible link and connecting the harness terminals though. problem is it stays on even when the car is off...gotta take out the wire...LOL....anyways even with the wire in place of the fusible link....it still wont charge...what kinda fusible link should i get....what gauge....40? what else could it be...as far as charging probs

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Rick


[This message has been edited by Black Beauty (edited December 15, 2000).]

 

Replace the fusible link with same size as what you took out. The parts store should have a selection of them, and they are often packaged with a terminal installed on one end.

As for the charging problem, where are you checking the voltage? What do you get at the output terminal of the alternator (the one that is held on with a nut)? If you have 14 volts (Charging volts) you have an open in the wire that runs down to the starter positive terminal. If you have battery voltage on this terminal, you have a break in tht small wire going into the plug-in connector. I believe this would be the brown wire. Try unplugguning the connector and checking it with the key switched to the run position, engine need not be running.

Good luck and keep posting if you don't get it!

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Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!

Awaiting results from all 8 ASE tests.

Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!

 

thanks a million....ill check the wires tommorrow in the light. ill let you know how it goes.

 

When you turn the key to "On" with the engine not running, does the "Choke" light come on? If not, replace the bulb.

Sounds stupid, I know. But the "Choke" light is also the "Alt" light; and the current that tells the alternator, so to speak, that the ignition is on, comes through that bulb. If the bulb is out the alternator will never get its initial trickle of juice that starts it up. Once it starts generating enough electricity to power itself, the bulb no longer matters; but without the bulb, it will never work.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

By all means do this. Also, check all your fuses. This sounds stupid too, but I had this very same problem but it wasn't a bad bulb. I had a blown fuse in the same circuit.


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Willie

Supercharged 1987 305 IROC-Z, Daily-Driver, Emissions-Legal.
12.57 @ 111 mph.
12.04 @ 114 mph (50-hp nitrous).
http://members.optushome.com/au/downunder1/rides/willie/willie.html

1987 "20th Anniversary Commemorative Edition" Z28 Convertible -- Super Chevy Show Class Winner, 1998.

 

Thanks for finishing that for me! I couldn't remember where the alternator got the "sense" voltage, so I didn't say anything until I could get my hands on the wiring diagram!

Does a TBI car have a GEN, or Alt light? That's what he has!

------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!

Awaiting results from all 8 ASE tests.

Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!

 

ok...i replaced the fusible link...and so far no visible signs of a break in the circuit...i just got a circuit tester so im gonna check all over. unfortunately i worked from sunrise to sunset today but tomorrow i have off woohoo.
ok something else to consider. when i shorted out the fan switch...see above post...i checked the relay....its good...i put it on the harness next to it and it clicks over....but when on the fan circuit it wont click...even with the fusible link back in place. so i opened up the relay and held the little contact in place and the fan kicked right on....so the current is flowing but it isnt clicking the relay...but the relay is GOOD!! could THIS have something to do with it.
also...i unscrewed the cigarette lighter to change it but i never changed it. its still out...cant get it back in...this isnt part of the circuit is it??
i dont think i HAVE a choke light...i know that when the batt get really low the INFL REST light comes on. is this the same??
thanks for the input....keep it comin

 

ok...i checked all the fuses...the only 2 that didnt come one were a 5 that had no name...it was close to the Gauge fuse but running perpendicular to it. the other one that didnt come on was a 3 that was on the far end labeled CRK....i tested em with the light....but when i pulled em out they were fine...i tested inside and the light didnt come on either. dont know what these do...both were kinda loose. any ways...i checked around some more with the light and i get power from the red wire going in to the harness (fan relay) and the other three (big black w/red stripe, small green, small grey) dont put out any power. keep it comin PLEEz. thanks. Rick

 

when i put the alligator clip on a the small grey wire (i cut it) and put the spike through the red wire....the relay clicks and the fan turns on and the light lights up. im thinking there is a break in the grey wire somewhere. what is this grey wire???

 

I'd replace your battery cables or at lease fab up a good 8 or 4 guage ground directly from the battery to the chassis and another to the engine. You can cut open some old cables and just have powder leak out. Also, I've seen on here how good grounds are the cure for many many electrical ailments. Also, I wouldn't buy the GM cables they're like $70 for the pair. Good Luck

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89 Iroc-Z LB9 305 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax "cat" back,K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, 170' thermo, mild ignition mods, synthetic oil, kicker sound system, soon to have 3.73 posi...

 

OK...I think I FIGURED IT OUT. the next few lines are what i ASSUME. the little grey wire supplies a small positive charge to the relay...to "click" it...so that power flows throught the red to black wire. when i shorted out the switch...which is simply a length of wire between the two ends of that grey wire...when i shorted it out....i must have blew it somewhere along the line. i am assuming this grey wire is connected to a power source that is only charged when the key is ON. so that the fan will turn off when you take the key out...this must be also connected to the alt somewhere....i bet i shorted it out there...where the alt and this lil grey wire connect. where does this lil grey wire go...please help. i have to go home to LA (500 miles away) next weekend for x mas....thanks. Rick

 

The 5 amp fuse is probably the instrument panel lights. It will only have power flowing through it when the lights are turned on. The 3 amp I'm not so sure about, but I think it only has power when cranking the engine.

------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!

Awaiting results from all 8 ASE tests.

Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!

 

cmon...guys....where does that grey wire go???

[This message has been edited by Black Beauty (edited December 17, 2000).]

 

well not that anyone cares i fixed it. that grey wire is connected to the alternater it self!!! turns out there was a fuse blown...the fan one...i guess i blew it when i shorted the switch....it took a week but i finally figured it out. thanks for the help.

 

Careful with the comments! I think you were offered quite a bit of info from all of us! You may make some of us upset and cause you to not get help in the future! Would you have found the problem without some guidance that we offered?

I am glad you got it though, just don't be ungrateful, and if you are, don't express it.

------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!

Awaiting results from all 8 ASE tests.

Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!

 

i apologize...i didnt intend for it to read that way. i am VERY appreciative of your help and thank you for your kind words and your support. the last sentence in my last post was in all seriousness. thanks for all the help...really....just glad this mess is over with. good thing i double checked the fuses!