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Want to rebuild my L69

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Old 12-21-2000, 10:25 AM
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Want to rebuild my L69

Looking for suggestions (advice) on head,cam,headers and intake for my 84 TA L69
tanks in advance

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Fully restored 84 TA original factory spec (sucks) Mods when the kids grow up "Sigh" no money!
Old 12-21-2000, 10:55 AM
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Car: 1984 Trans Am WS6
Engine: Minirammed 385, 396 RWHP
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Moser 12-bolt
Hey, see my webpage on how *I* built my 1984 T/A L69!
http://www.isthq.com/~dan/fcar.html


------------------
Daniel Burk
http://www.isthq.com/~dan/fcar.html
'84 Trans Am WS6/L69
KB SFC, Moser axles, Torsen Diff. PST suspension, Braided stainless brake lines, Koni struts, 11-inch rear disks,Spohn Adj. torque arm,
Ported 305 heads w/1.94"intake valves, Comp Cams XE262H, Griffen alum. radiator,
Turbine Technologies 2500 stall converter, underdrive pulleys, Crane Hi-6 & more.
1.05g skidpad verified.
New best E/T! 14.039 at 100.82 MPH in 41 degree air at Stanton, Michigan.
Old 12-21-2000, 03:25 PM
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Daniel, just curious if in hind-sight you wished you'd have put your effort into a set of World 305 S/R's. Better port and chamber design, less work to clean up, screw-in studs, etc.

And, how do you not set codes with no EGR?

------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R. 2.73 unlimited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LB9 w/ZZ3 cam, TBD heads, exhaust, paint, etc.).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & shift kit, 3.08 10-bolt, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.
Old 12-21-2000, 03:41 PM
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
I'm not Dan... but I can tell you, having been there multiple times before, that in a carbed car the computer has basically no way of telling whether the EGR is working or not; and furthermore, the whole system is so crude that it doesn't really matter. The fuel distribution is so poor that fine-tuning details like that are lost in the noise floor.

If I still had the 305 in my Z28, I'd probably go for the WP heads; the same Comp cam Dan has; Edelbrock TES; and Comp 1.6 roller-tip rockers. The L69 exhaust is already a pretty beefy setup from the Y-pipe back. And of course it should already have 3.73 gears. The stock intake is mostly OK; you'd have to go to an Edelbrock Perf RPM or equivalent to make a noticeable improvement, but then you'd have no EGR at all.

I believe that you will be needing some sus[emsion work by the time you get this far. LCAs, LCA lowering brackets, and maybe an aftermarket torque arm will help hook up the power you will have.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
Old 12-21-2000, 06:12 PM
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Car: 1990 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 TPI siamesed runners
Transmission: Tremec T56
Axle/Gears: 12-Bolt 3.73
If you're gonna do that much work to your 305, yank it and put in the ZZ4 conversion kit.

------------------
1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
13.25 @ 107.18 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
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Old 12-21-2000, 06:39 PM
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If you're really serious about it.....

My opinion is to go for WP Sports Man II heads. This is one of the heads you don't hear much about but you don't hear anything bad.

As for a cam, get a Summit hyd. cam. "Brand Name" cams are usually a waste of money for a flat tappet hyd. cam. You can spend the extra hundered and get a brand name cam with near the same specs and make just a tad more horsepower.

Edlebrock RPM is a must and if you use the Q-jet again you can buy it with EGR (or so the Summit catalog leads you to believe)

For headers it varies on who you ask. I like my hooker headers, the big downside is you have to have a custom Y-pipe made and the even larger downside is finding an exhaust shop competent to make it the right way. (Most just weld two pipes together and strangle the exhaust). Edlebrock TES's and Hedmans are the only other real way to go. Most people grab Hedmans because they're cheaper than the rest and have a pre-made Y-pipe you can buy with the headers. Borla is a great cat-back if you have the money.

When you're buying a cam you usually don't buy 1.6's with it. Again, pretty much a waste of money when you can buy what ever damned cam you want and get one that will have the same duration but the lift of 1.6's and still run your 1.5's for less. Roller tip rockers aren't a bad addition but the flat tappet hyd. cam will run into the danger zone before the rocker arms.

If you don't have strict emmissions laws where you live you can swap on an aftermarket carb (Holley/Edlebrock/SpeedDemon) save money buy not having A.I.R. tubes on your headers and running an MSD or a non-CC HEI ign. system.

Why not just drop in ZZ4? 1. Building an engine yourself is much more rewarding and challenging. 2. Just because your L69 won't be as fast the the ZZ4 doesn't mean the ZZ4 is better. 3. The mentality that seems to infect everyone here that cubes are better than putting back in a weaker engine is mostly had by those with 350's. If cubes were so much better than why didn't they buy a 502?

Simple: It didn't fit the application.


------------------
1984 WS6 Trans Am Hartop
Former L69 Car under restoration
1984 WS6 Trans Am T-top car
4-bolt main 350, headers, Holley 650, T-5 and 3.23's.
Daily driver and restoration
13.98 @ 101
Old 12-21-2000, 07:25 PM
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Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
Three different 305 buidups can be found here... www.hioutput.com/tech.html

Pete

------------------
Pete's Place
HiOutput Virtual Racing Team
Old 12-22-2000, 02:21 PM
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Car: 1984 Trans Am WS6
Engine: Minirammed 385, 396 RWHP
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Moser 12-bolt
RB83L69 has it right. I don't set codes as long as I stick to pump gas. I bought race fuel once, and the carb kept going lean, according to the oxygen sensor. Once I went bck to 93 octane, the problem went away. There is no provision for checking the operation of the EGR.

As for Five7Kid, you too, are right. I've recommended to everyone that has asked that they look to the WP 305 S/R head instead of noodling around with the 305 casting. I'd only do another 305 head for academic curiosity.

I had to buy a snowblower this season, and now will have to pop for a new set of 19 windows for our 100 year old Colonial Revival. Thus, I will probably finish off my 383 shortblock,stick it into a bag next to the miniram, and simply work on my 305 some more. I'll pop the heads off, and see if I can free up another 10% air flow out of them. I'd truly like to see 103 MPH out of this 305 before I retire it!



------------------
Daniel Burk
http://www.isthq.com/~dan/fcar.html
'84 Trans Am WS6/L69
KB SFC, Moser axles, Torsen Diff. PST suspension, Braided stainless brake lines, Koni struts, 11-inch rear disks,Spohn Adj. torque arm,
Ported 305 heads w/1.94"intake valves, Comp Cams XE262H, Griffen alum. radiator,
Turbine Technologies 2500 stall converter, underdrive pulleys, Crane Hi-6 & more.
1.05g skidpad verified.
New best E/T! 14.039 at 100.82 MPH in 41 degree air at Stanton, Michigan.
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