want to confirm compatibility
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Car: '89 Iroc
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700-r4
want to confirm compatibility
Alright with money burning a hole in my pocket i would like to begin work on the Iroc soon. My dad offered to give me his bare 355 block as a starting point. I want to hot tank it, and get it looked at. Now if i purchase the correct cam and lifters there is no reason why i couldn't run this engine in my '89 correct? and i can run standard valve covers, not centerbolts on the afr heads, then i don't have to spend the $300 on narrow roller rockers, i can spend the like $200 on standard? Then a cam and lifters is less than $200 instead of $300 for the cam alone. I want to then put some afr's and a stealth ram on top get it all ready and take a weekend and do the swap. Anything that i am overlooking??? thanks
Josh
Josh
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Block compatibility is based on it's year...i/e if it's a 1pc rearmain seal, then it's bolt in, if a 2pc rearmain seal, you'll need a different flexplate or flywheel.
Regarding rockers, this is head dependant, not block.
Most likely the AFR's have screwin studs and guideplates, so you'll be using non-self aligning rocker arms...check with AFR to be sure, but a quick look at the heads would confirm this.
Regarding rockers, this is head dependant, not block.
Most likely the AFR's have screwin studs and guideplates, so you'll be using non-self aligning rocker arms...check with AFR to be sure, but a quick look at the heads would confirm this.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
I reread your post again, I get the feeling it's a "non-roller" block, i/e 2pc RMS, and you're planning on running a hdy flat tappet cam, as opposed to the hyd roller cam setup that's in your '89 now.
Yes it less expensive for the cam/lifter, than a roller cam is...but if it were me (asuming your '89 has a 350 in it) I'd go through the original engine, select a good roller cam and run the AFR's on it.
Yes it less expensive for the cam/lifter, than a roller cam is...but if it were me (asuming your '89 has a 350 in it) I'd go through the original engine, select a good roller cam and run the AFR's on it.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Car: '89 Iroc
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700-r4
thanks, yes in a way i like the roller better but with the camaro being my daily driver i like the idea of being able to buld the engine on the side, but thanks for the replies, where would i research the flywheel issue
Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 344
Likes: 3
From: Panama City, Fl
Car: '89 Formula, '97 Z28, '88 Formula 350
Engine: 305 TBI(LO3)
Transmission: TH700R4(MD8)
You use the flywheel for the engine not the car. Get the casting # off of the block and post it on here and I can give you more info about your 355ci swap. I'm building a 388ci now to put in my '91RS. It's a 3970010 casting # block. Its a two piece rear seal that wasn't a roller block, but I'm going back with all roller componts.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Car: '89 Iroc
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700-r4
mine also has a 3970010 casting. I also have a 406 laying in the corner with a good crank and rods, at least i think they're fine the engine ran fine, but it went low on oil and ate a cam, it then got yanked out of my old el camino and tossed on a stand. Anyway, can i used that crank to build a stroker, or would the block need to be modified? o well thanks, and i'm just waiting to hear more input
Josh
Josh
Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 344
Likes: 3
From: Panama City, Fl
Car: '89 Formula, '97 Z28, '88 Formula 350
Engine: 305 TBI(LO3)
Transmission: TH700R4(MD8)
If you use a 400ci SBC crank you have to have the crank mains turned down to the large size. There is three sizes small, large and 400 mains. If it is a forged crank this my be the thing to do, but you can buy a cast crank for about the same price that it costs to turn that one down.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Car: '89 Iroc
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700-r4
yes i really wasn't wanting to go the stroker route, and if it costs that much it's not worth the computer/injector issues and all that jazz, i want some thing that will run almost like stock, until it gets opened up
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Car: '89 Iroc
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700-r4
hmm the more that i've been researching this things are adding up quickly, how horrrible would it be to just buy a shortblock? i mean and lose the 4 bolt main, do i really need a 4 bolt for the street?
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