will this motor work?
will this motor work?
I am kind of dumb with these new motors. Will a truck motor with the one piece rear main work for a short block in our camaros? I would like to keep the roller cam, is there something special about a roller? I know this sounds stupid, but I just don't want to spend $$$ and be stuck doing it wrong.
Thanks
Jeremy
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92 Z conv
5-spd B&M
alston SFC, few mods, some free, some not
Thanks
Jeremy
------------------
92 Z conv
5-spd B&M
alston SFC, few mods, some free, some not
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
As long as your car has the same rear seal design as the motor you want to put in (one-or two-piece) than they will interchange.
The 265 is no different from any other small block. It was the first one of the familiy, which remained unchanged until the introduction of one-piece rear main seals, center-bolt valve covers, and roller cams. All the later 2-piece blocks share its dimensions except for the bolt pattern for the valve covers, as all 265 heads and 283s up to 59 had the VC bolt holes staggered (not directly across from each other).
The roller cam set up is in fact special because it has... rollers. Instead of the bottom surface of the lifters being more or less flat and the cam turning underneath them, roller lifters have (you guessed it) rollers on their base, which roll on the camshaft lobe. There is less friction, which allows for a couple more HP and slightly better economy by itself; but the main benefits are not realized in factory engines, namely the ability to have far more aggressive ramps for opening and closing the valves, and higher valve spring pressures to provide better sealing of the valves without risk of destroying the cam lobes.
Truck motors do not come with rollers from the factory until a much later year than cars. Don't automatically assume that you'll be getting a roller motor. Personally I think it is a major act of stupidity and false economy to downgrade from a roller system to flat tappet, so I would advise you to check carefully, and pass on buying a motor if it's not roller. Alternatively, some (but not all) truck motors are prepped for rollers but not equipped, and if you get a motor that's one of those, you could swap your $$$$ roller lifters and all the factory's funky hardware over to it.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
The 265 is no different from any other small block. It was the first one of the familiy, which remained unchanged until the introduction of one-piece rear main seals, center-bolt valve covers, and roller cams. All the later 2-piece blocks share its dimensions except for the bolt pattern for the valve covers, as all 265 heads and 283s up to 59 had the VC bolt holes staggered (not directly across from each other).
The roller cam set up is in fact special because it has... rollers. Instead of the bottom surface of the lifters being more or less flat and the cam turning underneath them, roller lifters have (you guessed it) rollers on their base, which roll on the camshaft lobe. There is less friction, which allows for a couple more HP and slightly better economy by itself; but the main benefits are not realized in factory engines, namely the ability to have far more aggressive ramps for opening and closing the valves, and higher valve spring pressures to provide better sealing of the valves without risk of destroying the cam lobes.
Truck motors do not come with rollers from the factory until a much later year than cars. Don't automatically assume that you'll be getting a roller motor. Personally I think it is a major act of stupidity and false economy to downgrade from a roller system to flat tappet, so I would advise you to check carefully, and pass on buying a motor if it's not roller. Alternatively, some (but not all) truck motors are prepped for rollers but not equipped, and if you get a motor that's one of those, you could swap your $$$$ roller lifters and all the factory's funky hardware over to it.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
thanks for the info. I am looking for a rebuildable motor, and I didn't know if the blocks were different to accept athe roller cam. Thanks for the reply and happy holidays.
Jeremy
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92 Z conv
5-spd B&M
alston SFC, few mods, some free, some not
Jeremy
------------------
92 Z conv
5-spd B&M
alston SFC, few mods, some free, some not
Trending Topics
switching from 1 to 2 piece rear main isnt a problem, you just need to get the correct flywheel and starter. example...you have a 92, which is a 1 piece rear main. say you switch to an 84 block (just for argument sake) you would get the flywheel/starter for an 84 camaro 305. if you get a newer motor w/ 1 piece seal, you can put your existing starter/ flywheel on the new motor. its not much to worry about.
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350, Comp 262, Edelbrock Performer intake 600 cfm carb and exhaust, headers
-JVC, Eclipse, Pioneer, MTX, Phoenix Gold, Planet Audio
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350, Comp 262, Edelbrock Performer intake 600 cfm carb and exhaust, headers
-JVC, Eclipse, Pioneer, MTX, Phoenix Gold, Planet Audio
Hey Jeremy. You can use your 305 balancer on a 350 since they're both internally balanced engines(i.e. the crank is what the factory balances instead of the damper and the flywheel). However, the bigger diameter 350 balancer is more effective at dampening engine vibrations. That is assuming the 350 balancer is actually bigger than the 305 on the newer motors. I know they had different size balancers in the 70's. The 305 balancer was smaller and thicker than the 350 on those. Hey RB, I was thinking about the early 265 motors, and if I remember right, the one difference they have is that they have the engine mount provisions in the front of the block, and no mount provisions on the sides of the block.
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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."
[This message has been edited by Pat Hall (edited December 23, 2000).]
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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."
[This message has been edited by Pat Hall (edited December 23, 2000).]
Thanks Pat,
I guess that I will try to track down a HB also. All I know is the older motors also, sometimes technology sucks when you have to play catchup.
Jeremy
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92 Z conv
5-spd B&M
alston SFC, few mods, some free, some not
I guess that I will try to track down a HB also. All I know is the older motors also, sometimes technology sucks when you have to play catchup.

Jeremy
------------------
92 Z conv
5-spd B&M
alston SFC, few mods, some free, some not
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Actually Pat, the bolts in the front of the block that the PS and the AIR pump go to, are the same ones that the front motor mounts use. I'm not sure since you mention it whether the 265 blocks ahve the side pad or not. Good point...
Like Pat said, the 305 and 350 balancers are interchangeable, as far as fit and function. Generally the bigger and heavier one is, the better it works. The later 350s have the same small one as 305s have. Some earlier 350s have a 8" one that is much more effective, except that the rubber is all 30 years old now. You'd really be better off getting a good aftermarket one. However, for just a stock application (5000 RPM redlne) the stock 305 or 350 balancer will work fine.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
Like Pat said, the 305 and 350 balancers are interchangeable, as far as fit and function. Generally the bigger and heavier one is, the better it works. The later 350s have the same small one as 305s have. Some earlier 350s have a 8" one that is much more effective, except that the rubber is all 30 years old now. You'd really be better off getting a good aftermarket one. However, for just a stock application (5000 RPM redlne) the stock 305 or 350 balancer will work fine.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
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