LT1 Oil pan Q?
LT1 Oil pan Q?
The LT1 engine I picked up, when the taxi company towed it back to there shop before we got it, they dented the oil pan.
Looks like a sledge hit the bottom and push up on the middle. Should I try and fix that with reverse beating it out.
Or should I replace it.
If I have to replace it will any SBC oil pan work?
Looks like a sledge hit the bottom and push up on the middle. Should I try and fix that with reverse beating it out.
Or should I replace it.
If I have to replace it will any SBC oil pan work?
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,654
Likes: 2
From: Lower Salford, PA
Car: 1987 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 6.3L Victor EFI
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"/4.11 Trac-Lok
If its a smooth dent with no cuts or sharp creases it should bend out okay. If you need to replace it any SBC passenger car (not from a Vette) one piece rear main seal pan will work.
Just a few thoughts/observations:
If the pan is dented more than ¼" it may interfere with the oil pump pickup, possibly restricting intake oil, or worse, it may have dislodged the pickup, allowing the pump to draw and pump air instead of oil.
If the engine came from a taxi company, it was probably in B-body. If that's the case, it would be a '94-'96 model. Those year B-car engines have either an oil level and/or oil conductivity sensor in the left side of the pan. There may be a problem with an altered oil level, or damage to the sensor.
If the engine came from a taxi (SEO vehicle) B-car, it is very possible that it isn't an LT1, but an L99. It is externally identical to the LT1, but is only 265 cubic inches. Check the casting and stamped engine codes very carefully before writing the check. Very few SEO vehicles (other than police) actually got the LT1, since most taxi companies wanted the smaller engine for better in-town fuel economy.
The sealing ledge at the timing cover on the LT1/LT4/L99 is slightly different than the "regular" SBC engines, so you may not be able to use any old oil pan. The tapped hole in the left side is also a difference.
This is going into an F-body, right?
If the pan is dented more than ¼" it may interfere with the oil pump pickup, possibly restricting intake oil, or worse, it may have dislodged the pickup, allowing the pump to draw and pump air instead of oil.
If the engine came from a taxi company, it was probably in B-body. If that's the case, it would be a '94-'96 model. Those year B-car engines have either an oil level and/or oil conductivity sensor in the left side of the pan. There may be a problem with an altered oil level, or damage to the sensor.
If the engine came from a taxi (SEO vehicle) B-car, it is very possible that it isn't an LT1, but an L99. It is externally identical to the LT1, but is only 265 cubic inches. Check the casting and stamped engine codes very carefully before writing the check. Very few SEO vehicles (other than police) actually got the LT1, since most taxi companies wanted the smaller engine for better in-town fuel economy.
The sealing ledge at the timing cover on the LT1/LT4/L99 is slightly different than the "regular" SBC engines, so you may not be able to use any old oil pan. The tapped hole in the left side is also a difference.
This is going into an F-body, right?
Thx for the info Vader,
If the engine came from a taxi (SEO vehicle) B-car, it is very possible that it isn't an LT1, but an L99. It is externally identical to the LT1, but is only 265 cubic inches. Check the casting and stamped engine codes very carefully before writing the check. Very few SEO vehicles (other than police) actually got the LT1, since most taxi companies wanted the smaller engine for better in-town fuel economy.
I have confirmed that it is a LT1 came out of a 96 buick roadmaster wagon (identical to my dads) also mechanic friend of ours saw it go into the fleet (shop next door) and I confirmed it via block, VIN, and RPO codes. For economy the converted to propane.
This is going into an F-body, right?
Yes going into an 85 Z original carb. (will do A/C delete, so no frame notching)
The dent looks like if you take a piece of paper and hold it up it kinda crinks around where your holding, same idea.
The sealing ledge at the timing cover on the LT1/LT4/L99 is slightly different than the "regular" SBC engines, so you may not be able to use any old oil pan. The tapped hole in the left side is also a difference.
What options then LT1 oil pan only??
If the engine came from a taxi (SEO vehicle) B-car, it is very possible that it isn't an LT1, but an L99. It is externally identical to the LT1, but is only 265 cubic inches. Check the casting and stamped engine codes very carefully before writing the check. Very few SEO vehicles (other than police) actually got the LT1, since most taxi companies wanted the smaller engine for better in-town fuel economy.
I have confirmed that it is a LT1 came out of a 96 buick roadmaster wagon (identical to my dads) also mechanic friend of ours saw it go into the fleet (shop next door) and I confirmed it via block, VIN, and RPO codes. For economy the converted to propane.
This is going into an F-body, right?
Yes going into an 85 Z original carb. (will do A/C delete, so no frame notching)
The dent looks like if you take a piece of paper and hold it up it kinda crinks around where your holding, same idea.
The sealing ledge at the timing cover on the LT1/LT4/L99 is slightly different than the "regular" SBC engines, so you may not be able to use any old oil pan. The tapped hole in the left side is also a difference.
What options then LT1 oil pan only??
Last edited by Drakar; Nov 20, 2003 at 11:09 PM.
As long as the engine is out, I'd remove the pan and try to straighten it. It sounds like the dent is not so severe that it can't be repaired.
Since it's an LT1, you should have some very good flows on the iron heads. Slightly better than even the aluminum LT1 heads. Should make a nice powerplant in your car.
Since it's an LT1, you should have some very good flows on the iron heads. Slightly better than even the aluminum LT1 heads. Should make a nice powerplant in your car.
Thanks for your help Vader.
I'll give it a shot at fixing it, I have plenty of time the engine is on a stand and I don't plan on it going in for maybe another month or two most likely Jan sometime. I do plan to port(minor) and polish(mostly) the heads, intake and TB and possible cam change.
Do you know how much lift the stock springs can take? or should I just change them out as well. I was going to change to most likely an F-body LT1 cam still mild but a little more then stock b-body cam.
Thanks again
I'll give it a shot at fixing it, I have plenty of time the engine is on a stand and I don't plan on it going in for maybe another month or two most likely Jan sometime. I do plan to port(minor) and polish(mostly) the heads, intake and TB and possible cam change.
Do you know how much lift the stock springs can take? or should I just change them out as well. I was going to change to most likely an F-body LT1 cam still mild but a little more then stock b-body cam.
Thanks again
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 0
From: ny-lindy
Car: 1989 Iroc z hardtop
Engine: peanut LB9
Transmission: slopomatic TH700R4
If i where you, I'd look at getting the hotcam kit for your car.
Its a great cam, the kit is $500 but includes your whole drivetrain if I'm correct.
WyClef
Its a great cam, the kit is $500 but includes your whole drivetrain if I'm correct.
WyClef
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,654
Likes: 2
From: Lower Salford, PA
Car: 1987 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 6.3L Victor EFI
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"/4.11 Trac-Lok
ede is right, the LT-1 oil pan is slightly different. It was late in the day & after reading electronic catalogs all day, the part #s start to look all the same. The B-body oil pans can be used, you just have plug the oil level sensor hole up with a M20x1.5 bolt & some epoxy. I used a 92 police engine with the B body oil pan & it fit the F body chassis no problem. I have also hammered out dented in oil pans with no problems as well. The LT-1 cam is not very impressive in the F body form either, the LT4 would be a better choice.
I don't have the cash for the LT4 kit, I would like to go full LT4 sometime soon, but I was only looking for a cheap upgrade that wouldn't waste my springs, and most people say LT1 cams go for 50 bucks or so?
I guess it might not be worth the effort to put that cam in for so little gain.
Ill just do the swap and work, and then start the old saving pool for the LT4 kit, or a T-56 depending on if my T-5 breaks or not
Thanks guys
I guess it might not be worth the effort to put that cam in for so little gain.
Ill just do the swap and work, and then start the old saving pool for the LT4 kit, or a T-56 depending on if my T-5 breaks or not

Thanks guys
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 0
From: ny-lindy
Car: 1989 Iroc z hardtop
Engine: peanut LB9
Transmission: slopomatic TH700R4
i'd save and get the LT4 hot cam kit. tryricing everything it comes with for that price anywhere anyd your goiung to be well over $500. the cam is about $140. (new)
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oh no.... optispark 
