Need some help please. I recently checked my spark plugs and found that cylinder 1 and2 spark plugs are black(carbon/but had oil on threads). What could be the cause? I have not done a compression check yet but how do you read the results(how to tell if its rings or valve guides). On start up/revving I do get a puff of white smoke. Thanks for the help.

383
HEI dist/trickflow 23 degree/edelbrock rpm performer/
comp cam small base/ 230/236 .490/.490 / 670 street avenger/

One other note/when in gear it idles way to low for engine/believe I need higher stall/700r4 with orginal torque converter.

Thank you for your help

Rob

 

are you sure that you did not just get a lot of oil on them taking them out. i knw it sounds stupid, but my engine has a small oil leak on the rear pass vavle cover, dropping oil all over the plugs around there.

 

Pretty sure oil is not coming from anywhere else. I stated the wrong cyclinders earlier. It was 1,3 plugs. After installng engine and driving for about 100 miles is when I noticed problem. Monday I checked them and found only 3 was black, then yesterday when I went to do a spark check and compression check I noticed 1 was now black. I believe it's related to such a poor idle when car is in gear but since I'm a newbie I thought I better ask for other opinions.

The plug threads are the only place I noticed oil the electrode and the insulator are black but pretty much dry

Thanks for response

Rob

 

how new are the plug wires? You might not be getting good spark at that plug.

Try pulling the #1 plug and snap the wire back on it. Let it sit on the valve cover or strut tower and crank it over. Make sure the plug is grounded. Check for spark or even a weak spark. Then try the #3 plug.

 

The wires are brand new. Everything except the accesories are new. The wires are made by Taylor.

I checked for spark last night on cylinder 3 and all seemed bright.

Thanks,

Rob

 

Is it possible to have a valve dragging? Might have the rocker arm adjusted wrong. You could pull the valve cover and watch the valves as someone cranks it over.

What about the plug gap?

Just some Ideas to check.

good luck.

 

I guess it is possible valve is dragging. I took a quick glanze last night at the heads but didn't see anything wrong. Thats the problem with being a newbie, you look at something and you cant be sure if it's right or not/ This was my first attempt at rebuilding an engine so anything is possible. Luckily the machine shop that did the maching let me rebuild it there so when I had a question they were right there to help. They were the ones that set up lash/I could only watch. I still have it in my head that the problem is because of torque converter and the hard time I have at idle when in gear but it doesn't make sense why only a couple of cylinders are having a problem. I never should have looked(engine was running fine) I THINK. Never drove sports car before.

Novel complete

Thanks for input once again.

Rob

 

How old is this engine?

I see you have trick flow heads. If I remember correctly (I may be wrong) Trick Flow recommends using oil on the plug threads and header bolts so they don't rip the threads out when removing them in the future.

Is it possable that someone in the shop put a little oil on the threads?

You say that #1 and #3 (electrodes) are black. What do the other plugs look like?

Ken
PS. nice cam/head combination. Put same combo on friends 69 327 4 speed Camaro runs great. 383 would pull even better.

 

it sounds like your piston rings to me because u said it smokes when you rev it. to find out for sure if its the rings or leaking valves do a leakdown test. if u do the test and pressure is dropping squirt some oil into the cylinder. if the pressure is now holding steady your rings are leaking. if the pressure still drops it has to be the valves or headgasket or something else.

 

A leakdown test will help pin point where and more importantly how much leakage you are getting.

With the air pumping into the cylinder (thats at top dead center) see how much presure you are losing. If its 5% or less the cylinder is good. If it is more than 5% but less than 10% it's okay for the street but keep in mind you are losing 5%-10% of your horsepower for that cylinder. Anymore than 10% and I'd really consider fixing the problem.

To pin point the leak, open the throttle and listen for air leaking. If you hear it at the carb then the intake valve is leaking. Then listen at the exhaust. If you hear it leaking into the exhaust then it is the exhaust valve. Then remove the oil filler cap, if you hear air leaking into the block then it is coming from the rings.

Hope this helps
Ken

 

Thanks for the information. I don't have a leak down tester and I'm sure the parts stores are closed today so I will get one tomorrow.

I put the plugs in and to be honest I can't remember if I put oil on plugs or not. I am going to go out right now and pull 5,7 to see what they look like.

So far it only seems to the be the odd side that has the problem but I will update in a few.

Thanks again for all the suggestions,

Rob

 

I no longer believe the plugs have oil on them, its fuel.

Sorry, I ASSUMED it was oil. I have a strong odor of fuel under the hood but I ASSUMED it was coming from fuel tank vent line since I haven't put a filter on it since removing the cannister.

When I vent out to remove the remaining plugs I decieded to use the old sense of smell and found the plugs stink of fuel. The black plug issue now has moved on to other side of engine though not as bad. Still have some plugs where electrode is somewhat black but insulator is tan. So is it safe to assume I am running way to rich.

Again thank you for your help

Rob

 

Summit has leakdown testers that cost around $65.

I didn't mention it before but you will also need an air compressor to use a leakdown tester.

How many miles are on your engine?

 

The engine only has about 100 miles on it.

Put the engine in about a month ago but had to fix transmission leak first.

I figure I would just go to local parts store for leak down, it will be alot faster.

Thanks,


Rob

 

I don't think there is any problem with your engine.

Depending on the rings that you used, they most likely are not fully seated yet.

I hope your not making a lot of full throttle runs yet because you really should let it break in a while longer if you want it to have a long life.

When you do a leakdown test and find that you have 95% +++ sealing (hopefully 98% +) I highly recommend switching to full synthetic oil. Synthetic oil will greatly reduce friction (free horsepower) and does a great job of pulling heat from engine parts. In short, your engine will live a longer life.

What ever you do, DO NOT RUN SYNTHETIC UNTIL YOUR RINGS HAVE FULLY SEATED. If you run it to early, the stuff is so slick that your rings most likely won't seat properly and you will get a lot of blowby past your compression rings.

As for the brand of oil. I really don't think you will go wrong with any of the major brands out there.

I have seen first hand, an engine that was raced hard for a distance of around 5 miles with a sheared oil pump shaft (zero oil pressure) and after tear down, the engine looked like new.

This was on Amsoil 20-50 weight.

I have also heard good things about Moble 1 and I don't think you would go wrong with Castrol eather. Just make it easy on yourself and run what is easy for you to find in your area. If you have an Amsoil dealer in your area, you and your friends can save money if one of you becomes a dealer (less than $20) and get your oil, gease, etc. at a reduced price.

Take care.
Ken

 

Thanks for the information. The problem with being a newbie is you have no experience at what you are looking at. Thats why I wanted to do this project. I have learn alot about engines and camaros because of this project and it also helps to have a resource like this site where you can ask questions and you know people are willing to take the time and share their knowledge(how great is that). So again thanks for all your time and willingness to share your knowledge.

How do I know when rings are seatted? Never looked for Amsoil before but I will now.

Thanks for help,

Rob

 

If you use a leakdown tester and are losing 5% or less in each cylinder then your rings are seated.

As far as Amsoil goes, I've seen it do some great things, but I couldn't say that other synthetic's wouldn't have done the same.

If you can find it, run it, but if it's hard to find, make it easy on yourself and run whats easily available where you live.

Take care
Ken