Well I'm still trying to get the rotating assembly into my 383. I now have the correct chamferred bearings and SIX pistons in the block. I have all four on one side and only two on the other side. When I put either of the last two in, the rotating assembly binds up and won't turn. The only thing I can think of is the rods are too thick?? If so, why only two of them? The crank is a SCAT made specifically for a 383 so it has the larger fillets. Anyone have any ideas?

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Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, either AFR or Trick Flow heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


***** Flyby: (n) When you let off the throttle after beating a ***** Racer by a few car lengths and he then blows by you in an attempt to convince you he really won the race.

 

I'm sure you have, but had to ask.
The block is clearanced for the stroker crank right? Are the rod bolts hitting the cam?
Just a couple of thoughts.
SC

 

The crank has no problems turning without pistons and the cam isn't installed yet. Thanks, but does anyone else have any other ideas?

 

Whrn you put one of the last 2 rods in, does it go all the way up against one side of its rod journal or get smashed against the other rod? Also, are you sure that the chamfer is ending up on the correct side (the "outside") of the rods, specifically on the ones that are giving you problems? Can you tell exactly what is causing it to bind?

You're so close, don't give up yet... it's just a bunch of chunks of metal, we're smart enough around here to outwit those at least most of the time...

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

Paul,

Eliminate one possibility at a time.

First, remove the bearing shells from the cranks ends on the offending rods and the mating rods from the other cylinder bank. Wrap a layer of draftsman's tape or light adhesive masking tape on the crank journal. Install both of the rods on a common journal and snug the caps in place (don't torque them). Try to rotate the crank.

If the crank moves without undue resistance, the bearing shells may have been binding at the radii and forcing the rod end faces together, locking them.

If it doesn't move, the rod ends may be too wide for the journal width. This should be apparent when attempting to fit the rods up to the journals. A little Prussian blue on one of the rod faces would indicate interference with the adjacent rod.

Then try one set of bearing shells on one rod and install the other rod without shells. If the binding occurs with only one bearing set installed, the bearings might still be chamfered too little for the crank journal radius. If this occurs, tape both sets of shells to the journal and measure the clearance between them. Measure the rod end width and calculate the necessary space versus available space. If the number you arrive at is negative, the bearings are still too wide.

If you determine that the rod ends are not too wide, and that the bearings are allowing adequate clearance without forcing the rod ends together, you might have rods that are not machined with parallel bores at both ends. This will bind you in a hurry. The best way to measure this is with a CMM, but you'll have to remove the pistons from the rods to do so. Even if the rods are not bent, a misaligned rod end bore will cause binding as soon as you snug up the bearing cap.

I wish I could offer more positive advice, but your problem is already apparently beyond the "easy and simple" fixes.

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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

Vader,
Thanks for the ideas. I'll start trying them when the snow hits this weekend and I have time to actually work on my car. I think I already tried another set of bearings, but I'll retry it. I'm gonna guess the rods are too thick. That's gonna suck when it comes to having everything rebalanced again huh?

By the way Vader....I see we have a similar taste in music. I can almost always place your quotes.



------------------
Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, either AFR or Trick Flow heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


***** Flyby: (n) When you let off the throttle after beating a ***** Racer by a few car lengths and he then blows by you in an attempt to convince you he really won the race.

 

It could be worse. Your luck could be like mine. I had about 20 hours on a rebuilt 400 and the block cracked. It looks like I get to do it again.

[This message has been edited by jcb999 (edited December 30, 2000).]

 

JCB,

Ouch, that hurt me.

It's a standard practice with me to sonic check them suckers anymore to try and avoid that.

For any build approaching 500 hp, I'm going with a new block from now on. The last 400 I built had about $1500 of machine work in it. Dart makes blocks for $1600 that are CNC machined with priority main oiling and ready for a final hone. Kinda hard to beat that.

Well, look at it this way. You get to build it with the knowledge and experience you have now.

Mike