It turns out my starter is ok. But i had a tough time taking it out and now i can't put it back the right way.
The way the subframe and the exhaust is placed, the piggy back solenoid on the starter, what is the right way to put the starter through the the little gap.

the only way it goes through the gap is the the solenoid is facing the ground and the rear of the starter is put in first.
But then the pinion of the starter faces the wrong.

I am in a fix here. I have already spent almost the whole day trying to get the started out (turns out started is not the problem) and now can't get the starter back in...
Help!!!

 

i odnt know if this is relevant to you but when i put my starter in about once a year i slip it through the exaust and the tranny (thats what my problem is) rest it on the exaust connect the wires then bolt up the two bolts takes me like fifteen minutes and if its that bad geeting it through the exaust just undo and exaust pipe its only two or three bolts depending but if you do spray a lubricant on and be careful they sometimes snap

 

Yes that's what the problem is.
I can't get the started in with the starter pinion the rightly aligned to the flywheel.
The only way it will go through the gap is if the solenoid is facfing the ground but then the starter pinion is not facgin the flywheel teeth...
i can't get the solenoid off the starter. The screws have lost their threads. They are so tight.
The exhaust look all rusted and i am afraid they might not open up. Do they need some gasket or just bolt-on if i remove them.

Thanks Sean

 

I used to have to put mine in nose down with the solenoid toward the engine IIRC.... I'd have to work it up in there, and then rotate it into place once it got up past the exhaust and knock sensor and all. it would go in if I did it right, even with the huge L69 exhaust.

 

Yes you're right. I figured if it got out without taking the exhaust off, it should go in, if i twisted it once it got past the exhaust/ A-arm opening.
But it did'nt work out, so i had to loosen the exhaust hangers and got it fit finally.
But it's the same click thingy.

Is it possible that the starter is indeed not getting enough power but during bench test it will rotate.

I am thinking either the solenoid or the starter or both are kind of shot and the starter motor does not have enough power to crank but on bench test (without any load on the starter motor) it's seems ok.

My alternator is ok, because i disconnected my battery after the car first started and it did not die.

I connected the battery terminals, started the car went to Kragen and that was the last time it started and had to tow it home. (my mistake taking it to Kragen)
It keeps clicking right now. and will not crank. Bench testing it the motor spins though...


Shall i leave the starter in there, and short the 'S' terminal and the bigger post(the post where the 3 or 4 wire from the battary positive goto).

 

My 1st time around was a PITA too but eventually twisted it just right and it poped in. The support bracket was disposed of in the proper fashion at that time.

If there bench testing the starter and it shows good it might be. They actually test through the solenoid and if it starts on the bench it should in the car. If its just clicking you might check the ground cable (battery negitive) to make sure it is making good contact and isnt broken or corroded in a few spots. You car may be trying to start itself through the ground wire. If thats the case somtimes it will start but most of the time it wont. I assume the battery was the first thing you had tested? When the car is running and you pull the cable and it stays running doesent mean the alternator is good. A bad alternator can charge when its cold or cycle on and off.

 

Hi SSC,
Yes I have checked the battery volts which is:
12.39 - 12.79 volts when not running and
13.x - 14.x volts when running.

I have a quick question. when they bench tested it, they grounded the body of the starter (which is the black -ve wire).
They connect a huge +ve wire to the B terminal.

And then they connected a small clip (which is also +ve i assume) to the Switch 'S' terminal. And they push a button. The pinion ejects out with the motor spinning fast and both the volts and amperage on their meter shot out of range. They repeated the same test for a brand new starter and same result with same procedure. Hence the conslusion was my starter was ok.

Now putting the same analogy when the starter is mounted to the car.
3 black wires (all red underneath)connect to the 'B' terminal (the top of the solenoid terminal). A purple wire goes to the switch 'S' terminal. Is the purple terminal also going to the battery +ve terminal.
If the starter is not getting good ground when in the car, which is the ground cable that goes to the starter in other words how is the starter grounded.

Also i have removed the A/C and found that the A/C wires were lying on the exhaust header, melting off the the black cover. I re-routed them by the brake fluid cannister, taping them around the drivers front strut well. Can this be something, to do with bad ground.

 

did u measure the current draw on the starter when u bench tested it? if u did what was it reading?

 

No I did not check the current draw.
Because it was bench tested at 2 Kragen stores. The first shot both the voltmeter/ammeter beyond the range as it did for their new starter. In the 2nd store it did not move the current/volt meter one bit. I was going to ask if their meter was shot ( I assumed the meter is shot).

Would you know what the normal current draw is.
Should i buy a GM Mini Starter and then fit a remote solenoid to it. or remote solenoid to a normal remanufactured starter.

As for the high torque mini starter, is it a direct bolt on or shoudl i have to make adjustments...

Thanks for reading

 

I am thinking of another test but wanted to get advice from you experts.
I will loosen the starter and get pinion gear to not come in contact with the flywheel teeth but all the wires still attached and one of the bolts attached to the starter to get it some ground.

I then turn the ignition key to start and if the motor spins then the problem is it's too tight and i should probably get some shims.

If it does not spin but clicks then (since the bench test indicates the solenoid is ok)the wires are messed. i.e. either the battery or the purple switch wire or it's bad ground.