My car will not crank up. Everything on the car runs(including a/c and headlights), but the motor and the hatch switch. I tried to see if jumping it would help but it didn't. I have no clue as where to begin my search. I hate electronics.Yes it is a auto. I just don't know where to look. Everything on the car works. I can even run my amp, a/c,headlights, etc.
The only thing that doesn't work is the hatch switch and the car not starting.
I changed the heater core and before I put everything back together, I started the car just fine, but once I got everything back together it would not start!
Thanks(Lost in GA)I checked every fuse already. When I turn the key all the lights come on and I think I hear the fuel pump turning on, But that is it. Nothing else happens.

 

I would try checking the connections on the starter. Same thing happend to me. All accesorys would work but would not crank.

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We'll get out of here, it'll just take a hole lot of floorin.

 

I just checked it out. Everything was tight. This is getting crazy. Thanks

 

Do you have a voltmeter? You really need one to try to find out what is going on here. First off, it sounds like you might have lost power to just the starter if everything else is working (fuel pump, lights, a/c).. Are the lights dim? If you can get a voltmeter, put the red lead on the big red cable on the starter and ground the black one. You should see 12.8 vdc or so, if not then the connection at the battery may be bad or you might have a bad ground somewhere. If you are able to reach it safely, you can probe the small purple wire on the other small post on the starter and you should see 12v when you turn the keyswitch to cranking position..

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Mike C
88 Iroc 5spd
355 TPI, AFR 190s and lotsa other mods
86 Iroc in pieces!

 

Is it vats by any chance? I know it's elementary and you probably already checked but that's exactly what it does when the vats goes off.

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89 Iroc-Z LB9 305 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax "cat" back,K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, 180' thermo, mild ignition mods, synthetic oil, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...

 

what do I check to see it the vats is bad?

 

Well, when mine went bad I could just wait for 15 minutes and it would start back up. There are many things that could make it "bad" permanently - bad chip in the key, bad wires in the ignition cyllinder...I'm not sure of the formal way to check it but I'm going to get my shop manual in a few and I'll post then.

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89 Iroc-Z LB9 305 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax "cat" back,K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, 180' thermo, mild ignition mods, synthetic oil, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...